Thursday, April 30, 2009

Taste of Ethiopia...Or Not


For months--nay, years--I've heard about how great Ethiopian food is. I've heard rave reviews of Ferndale's Blue Nile and Southfield's Taste of Ethiopia--how different, how healthy, how very ethnic. Despite this, I've never done the Ethiopian thing; no particular reason, just haven't. So finally I decided to expand my gastronomic horizons to include this popular cuisine, and off I went to Taste of Ethiopia's second location in trendy Eastern Market.

Now. Restaurants in Eastern Market tend to be over-hyped and over-crowded as it is, largely because of Eastern Market's popularity amongst trend-conscious coinosseurs of locally-grown organic produce and those who wish to support the local agricultural movement in sustainable cuisine, and so on. Russell Street Deli is good and all, but to line up outside for anything other than a paczki seems preposterous to me, and there does come a point where a (eight dollar) corned beef sandwich is just a (eight dollar) corned beef sandwich. Vivio's? Overrated, right down to the watered-down Bloody Marys. Supino Pizzeria? Has mysteriously dodged the Eastern Market-ishness and has yet to see a line out the door on a sunny Saturday, though it is the only place where such a line would make sense. (Seriously--that pizza is really effing good.)

Walking into Taste of Ethiopia, I knew only that many veg-heads had raved about it and that it always seemed to be empty (when it wasn't outright closed). I had heard of that spongy bread called injera and that the food would be, uh, mushy and probably rather spicy. I also knew that Ethiopian food is all the rage right now, like sushi was some 7-ish years ago (and look what we did to that).

I found a place that was mostly empty--no big surprise there. The hostess/waitress/cashier/food preparer(?) recognized our lack of familiarity with the cuisine, though for someone trying to convince us to stick around she struck me as a bit aloof. The food is all served from a buffet, and I only discovered later that the food is actually prepared in the Southfield location and then trucked over. Which is, um, you know, gross. Mostly because (a) buffets are completely unsanitary to begin with, though if you're anything like me you can eat pizza 36 hours after it has been sitting out without being refrigerated and thus have an intestinal tract of steel, and (b) buffets are the absolute worst way to experience any cuisine, due to the loss of flavor and freshness from the whole storing/reheating process, the condensation and requisite degradation of texture and form as a result, as well as the sauces separating, cooling, and hardening from sitting out. In other words, gross.

These thoughts ran through my head as the waitress/server/hostess/bus girl waited to find out if we were going to order and a random woman nodded enthusiastically in approval and said, "It's really good."

Honey, you're really wrong. Now let's get something straight: I am ALL FOR ethnic cuisine. And while I can bemoan the lack of authenticity at any American restaurant purporting to be ethnic this-or-that, this gripe becomes increasingly irrelevant the more often it is used. What I don't like is when people jump on the ethnic this-or-that bandwagon simply because it's ethnic and it gives them some sense of self-satisfied cultural open-mindedness. (See: Thai, sushi, Indian.) Bottom line: just because it's ethnic doesn't mean it's good (or, more to the point, that it's a good representation of that particular ethnicity).

Case in point: the buffet at Taste of Ethiopia. The rice that was dried out. The chicken that was pink inside (and I don't know much about cooking, but I do know chicken IS NOT supposed to be pink inside). The lamb stew that was green. The fish that was really, really fishy (and no one wants to eat a fishy fish). In keeping with everything I've heard of Ehtiopian food, it's best to stay away from the meat, which is typically just stewed and then doused in spices.

Speaking of spices, I was under the impression that Ethiopian food, which is big on berbere (a kind of African all-spice with a red chile pepper base), would be, you know, spicy. Yeah, not so much. Everything I sampled was bland, except for the vegetable sambosas (a take on the Indian samosa which is more properly spelled as "Sambussa" when referring to the Ethiopian variety of this lightly fried triangular dough filled with vegetables and sometimes meat), which were dry but otherwise the only thing I was willing to fill up on for $9.45. There were also lentils (i.e., carrots and green beans), split peas and collard greens (both popular in Ethiopian cooking). It all looked like sludge. It didn't taste much better.

Traditional Ethiopian cuisine is consumed by scooping up the various sauces and stews with their special spongy flat bread called injera, which is made from a cereal grain and contains two to three times more iron than wheat or barley. The consistency is odd, and the bread (which is rolled up and kind of looks like a wet hand towel) has a slight tang that some say is reminiscent of sourdough, though I don't entirely agree with that determination. This bread was neither bad nor good; just spongy.

To take this restaurant as being representative of Ethiopian cuisine is an insult to Ethiopian cuisine, and I say that as a lesson to those who crave authenticity and who perhaps secretly in their heads were unimpressed by the place but didn't want to say so amongst their enthusiastic vegan friends. It's okay, guys: not liking the food at Taste of Ethiopia doesn't make you a close-minded white cuisinacist; it just means you have honest tastebuds. And while I can't overlook the appeal this place surely has for the veg-heads (Ethiopian food is heavy on vegetarian dishes, as they celebrate a number of fasting periods and meat restrictions in their country), as a happy carnivore I was left hungry and more than a little grossed out. And after speaking to a genuine bonafide for really-real Ethiopian, who said that he found the food there to be an offense to his culture and his people and he was personally insulted that people believe that it is authentic Ethiopian cuisine, I just know that I'm right in my supposition that this is not indeed the best thing since the California Roll. And at $9.45 for a lunch buffet, the price isn't all that tantalizing either.

One thing I did like about the place was the wall of hand-written compliments, which added kind of a fun vibe to the otherwise freakishly quite and sparsely drab environment. And free Wi-Fi is always nice, no matter where you go. Not to mention the authentic Ethiopian coffee and the Mango smoothies. If you're thirsty, stop in. Otherwise get in line at Russell Street Deli.


Taste of Ethiopia is located at 2453 Russell St. in Detroit, and also at 29702 F Southfield Rd. in Southfield. Hours vary by location; credit cards are accepted and both locations are BYOB. Above photos by Sean Gabriel Photography.

Tuesday, April 28, 2009

Metro Times Best Of Detroit Dining, Part 2

The Staff Picks. Here we go:

BEST SPLURGE
The Lark
6430 Farmington Rd., West Bloomfield; 248-661-4466
Did I not JUST SAY (in regards to the category "Best French Restaurant") "At least it wasn't the Lark"? Guys, listen. The Lark: it ain't that great. Yes, they do have hands-down the biggest and best wine list in all this Great Lakes State (none others even come close), but aside from that--the food just really isn't that good. Yes, it's tiny, and you have to make reservations weeks in advance, and it's super-expensive, all of which lends it the air of being super-exclusive, but you know what? Exclusivity does not a great restaurant make. It's an experience; nothing more. So what IS the best splurge? IRIDESCENCE, YOU FUCKING DOLTS! Followed closely by Tribute in Farmington Hills...though I suppose I can't say that with any real confidence, seeing as how I haven't been since the newest chef took over. So, Iridescence, without question and without hesitation. Maybe also the Rattlesnake Club, though it wouldn't be quite the splurge you might think (this is another one of the many fine restaurants that have reduced prices in this economy). Ugh, the staff picks are not off to a good start.

BEST PRE-THEATER — MODERATE
Union Street
4145 Woodward Ave., Detroit; 313-831-3965
Yeah, you know, this is an alright place. If you're looking to keep a budget, it won't disappoint. Though I would also recommend Angelina Italian Bistro where the pasta is made fresh from scratch daily and the price range is comparable.

BEST PRE-THEATER — UPSCALE
The Whitney
4421 Woodward Ave., Detroit; 313-832-7500
The Whitney finally resuscitated itself from the snooty, stodgy place it once was when it revamped in 2007, and the food is supposedly better than it has been in years (and is also more affordable, as many of the old fine-dining staples have responded to these economic times by reducing prices to entice budget-conscious customers). There is also a new jazz bar called the "Ghost Bar" on the third level (same as its always been, just with a name now) where you can have an after-theatre drink and listen to some jazz. As an alternate, I'd HIGHLY recommend Cuisine right by the Fisher Theatre. A little more French flair and a lot less pretense, though of course not nearly as decorated.

BEST CUT-RATE SWANKY
Tribute
31425 W. 12 Mile Rd., Farmington Hills; 248-848-9393
Again with the new chef, though. Three years ago I would have been all over it; the free birthday dinner is also new (as I celebrated my birthday there several years in a row and it was NEVER free, lemme tell 'ya). You know what restaurant is still cut-rate swanky and hasn't reduced prices AT ALL (because they don't need to)? Yeah: Iridescence. Uh-huh. They sure are.

BEST AL FRESCO
La Dolce Vita
17546 Woodward Ave., Detroit; 313-865-0331
Agreed.

BEST AL FRESCO — NON-DETROIT
Don Luciano's Place Trattoria
237B Dalhousie St., Amherstburg; 519-736-2917
This is new to me??? Though it's in Canada, and to cross the border is just entirely too much trouble. However, it does sound lovely. To save yourself the hassle of customs, head out to Commerce Township (it's like being in another country anyway) to It's a Matter of Taste. That patio is simply stunning.

BEST NEW RESTAURANT — UPSCALE
Forest Grill
735 Forest Ave., Birmingham; 248-258-9400
Speaking of Five Lakes Grill...Forest Grill is Chef Brian Polcyn's latest venture, and since opening last summer has received a number of accolades. This is the new "it" restaurant, though some reviews have been mixed. A must for any foodie, whether it lives up to its hype or not.

BEST NEW RESTAURANT — MODERATE
Due Venti
220 S. Main St., Clawson; 248-288-0220
Clawson is really coming into its own on the culinary scene, and Due Venti is its strongest offering yet. With so many mediocre (and highly Americanized) Italian places abounding, this place sounds like it really nailed the nouveau Italian concept (light and airy, lots of fresh fish), and with its emphasis on utilizing local produce, it's already a winner to me.

BEST NEW RESTAURANT — DOWNTOWN
Angelina Italian Bistro
1565 Broadway, at Grand Circus Park, Detroit; 313-962-1355
Ah, here she is. Angelina really is phenomenal, with great food at great prices (and you really can taste the difference in the fresh-made pasta--nothing else could possibly be as flawlessly al dente). The calamari is a must. The Paparadelle is my favorite. The wine list is solid, but be sure to try a martini while you're there--the Guinness Espress Martini is my favorite in town (and "town" includes Proof, Centaur, and Pulse).

BEST RESTAURANT TO MOURN
Europa Bistro
There's really just too many that could go into this category. Can I vote for Twingo's again?

BEST REOPENING
Maria's Front Room
215 W. Nine Mile Rd., Ferndale; 248-542-7379
You know, I never really cared for the old place. That generic Americanized Italian I just mentioned above? This place all over. But I've heard good things about the reopened spot (under new ownership), and am a bit curious. Even if it's better that still doesn't mean it's good, but we shall see.

BEST NEW SPINOFF
Toast Birmingham
203 Pierce St., Birmingham; 248-25TOAST
LOVE IT.

BEST RESTAURANT MAKEOVER
Forté
201 S. Old Woodward Ave., Birmingham; 248-594-7300
Well, at least they didn't use my "just call a snail a snail" line. And I do agree with the "best makeover" win...even if I did say it first.

BEST WHILE IT LASTED
Mercury Coffee Bar
There were good things about it. There were bad things about it. I miss the slow coffee. I don't miss the $7.00 bite-sized sandwiches. And no one misses the poor management and the lack of clear direction. C'est le vie, MCB.

BEST NEW SUBURBAN DINING DESTINATION
Clawson
I swear to God and Allah and Buddha and Gaya and Frodo Baggins I made the above comment about Clawson before I had even scrolled all the way down to see this category on the Staff Picks list. And yes, I OBVS agree.

BEST ANN ARBOR RESTAURANT
Logan
115 W. Washington St., Ann Arbor; 734-327-2312
Ann Arbor is too far. But I do like the Chop House. I know nothing about Logan.

BEST EASTERN MARKET
Vivio's
2460 Market St., Detroit; 313-393-1711
Let me tell you something about the restaurants in Eastern Market: most are not that great. I was just having a conversation about this the other day when it dawned on me that Eastern Market eateries are only fashionable BECAUSE they're in Eastern Market, and Eastern Market itself is fashionable. Vivio's really isn't that good. And is, in fact, kind of disgusting. Not quite Lafayette Coney Island disgusting, but close. Even their well-loved Bloody Mary mix is really just not that great (the "mix" appears to be nothing more than watered-down tomato juice). And yet, people flock there. For the absolute best in Eastern Market? Supino Pizzeria. More here.

BEST BARBECUE
Smoke and Spice
1515 Ottawa St., Windsor; 519-252-4999
Apparently I need to make the trek to Windsor. If MT staff one-upped the much-loved Slows for this place, there must be something to it.

BEST MEXICAN
Señor López Taqueria
7146 Michigan, Detroit; 313-551-0685
A much better choice than the readers picked.

BEST SOUL FOOD RESTAURANT
Beans & Cornbread: A Soulful Bistro
29508 Northwestern Hwy., Southfield; 248-208-1680
The staff and readers agree. I vaguely wonder if this is because both were hard-pressed to name another soul food restaurant.

BEST MEXICAN-ITALIAN RESTAURANT
El Barzón
3710 Junction Rd., Detroit; 313-894-2070
Readers, I've been saving you from El Barzon for a reason. There is a review forthcoming, as well as an event; I will reveal my hand after all is said and done. But let me just say that the concept of a super top-secret foodie find in a downtrodden part of southwest Detroit seems to mean more to people than the food. The prices are right but the food is only so-so. Come to the Supper Club in May! (<----irony)

BEST CUBAN RESTAURANT
Café Habana
415 S. Main St., Royal Oak; 248-544-6255
I'd vote for Vicente's personally, though neither is stellar.

At this point, I am tiring of this Best Of list. I will just copy the rest for you, as there are about 50 more categories to go (every restaurant gets its own category, w00t!).

BEST ITALIAN — SPLURGE
Ristorante Café Cortina
30715 W. 10 Mile Rd., Farmington Hills; 248-474-3033
Bacco!

BEST SAMMARINESE RESTAURANT
Tre Monti Ristorante
1695 Big Beaver Rd., Troy; 248-680-1100
It's generic Italian.

BEST POLISH RESTAURANT
Polish Village Café
2990 Yemans St., Hamtramck; 313-874-5726; polishvillagecafe.net
There really couldn't be another option.

BEST GREEK RESTAURANT
Cyprus Taverna
579 Monroe St., Detroit; 313-961-1550
6 of one, half dozen of the other.

BEST MEDITERRANEAN RESTAURANT
Mediterrano
2900 S. State Ave., Ann Arbor; 734-332-9700
Again with Ann Arbor?

BEST EGYPTIAN-INFLUENCED MIDDLE EASTERN RESTAURANT
La Marsa
43259 Woodward Ave., Bloomfield Hills; 248-858-5800
3720 Rochester Rd., Troy; 248-524-0300
35558 Grand River Ave., Farmington Hills; 248-615-1900
4240 Pontiac Lake Rd., Waterford; 248-674-3100

BEST NEW MIDDLE EASTERN RESTAURANT IN THE CITY
Royal Kabob
3236 Caniff St., Hamtramck; 313-872-9454

BEST LEBANESE RESTAURANT
Anita's Kitchen
Ferndale

BEST VIETNAMESE RESTAURANT
Thang Long
27641 John R, Madison Heights; 248-547-6763
Also try the more upscale Annam in Dearborn.

BEST THAI RESTAURANT
Bangkok Café
323 W. Nine Mile Rd., Ferndale; 248-548-5373
I was wondering when this one would appear...a longtime favorite of many.

BEST LAOTIAN RESTAURANT
Sabidee
1449 W. 14 Mile Rd., Madison Heights; 248-597-0800
Look at Madison Heights, rounding out the cultural offerings!

BEST TAKEOUT FOR A CHARLIE CHAN MOVIE
Takee Outee
2346 Franklin Rd., Bloomfield Hills; 248-335-1228
How about best name?

BEST ETHIOPIAN RESTAURANT
Taste of Ethiopia
29702F Southfield Rd., Southfield; 248-905-5560; 2453 Russell St., Eastern Market; 313-567-6000 (lunch only)
ABSOLUTELY TERRIBLE. More to come.

BEST SOUPS
Modern Food & Spirits
1535 Cass Lake Rd., Keego Harbor; 248-681-4231

BEST FALAFEL
Yossi's Israeli Cuisine
7325 Orchard Lake Rd., West Bloomfield; 248-626-0160

BEST GARDEN BURGER
The "Stevers McFever"At Woodbridge Pub, 5169 Trumbull Ave., Detroit; 313-833-2701

BEST POMMES FRITES
Bastone
419 S. Main St., Royal Oak; 248-544-6250
They might not be called "pommes frites," but the truffle and parmesan fries at Royal Oak's Town Tavern are like sin. Really really good sin.

The following is NOT an insult to my intelligence as a pizza lover.

BEST PIZZA — NEW
Supino Pizzeria
Eastern Market

BEST THIN-CRUST PIZZA
Crust
2595 Rochester Rd., Rochester Hills; 248-844-8899; 6622 Telegraph Rd., Bloomfield Township; 248-855-5855

BEST PIZZA AND COCKTAILS
Amici's
3249 12 Mile Rd., Berkley; 248-544-4100

BEST BURGER AND A MALTED
Red Knapp's Dairy Bar
304 S. Main St., Rochester; 248-651-4545
This was a place we used to trek out to from far away Clinton Township just for that freakin' milkshake. At the time, not much was poppin' in Rochester. But Red Knapp's is worth the trip. (Insert quote about the five dollar milkshake from Pulp Fiction here.)

BEST CORNED BEEF
Al's Famous Deli
32906 Woodward Ave., Royal Oak; 248-549-3663

BEST CRÊPES
Le Petit Zinc Creperie & Cafe
1055 Trumbull, Detroit; 313-963-2805
No contest.

BEST DOSAS
Royal Sweets
28948 Orchard Lake Rd., Farmington Hills; 248-932-7400

BEST DEAL ON A TAMAL
Pollo Chapin
2054 Junction, Detroit; 313-554-9087

BEST SEAWEED
Peng Lai Pan Asian Cuisine
6130 Rochester Rd., Rochester Hills; 248-656-3800

BEST SUSHI AND A COCKTAIL
Ronin
326 W. Fourth St., Royal Oak;248-546-0888

BEST PLACE TO SUCK THE JUICE OUT OF CRAWFISH HEADS
Howe's Bayou
22848 Woodward Ave., Ferndale; 248-691-7145

BEST SLOW FOOD RESTAURANT
Eve: The Restaurant
415 N. Fifth Ave., with entrance on Kingsley Street between Fourth and Fifth avenues, Ann Arbor; 734-222-0711

BEST RAW DEAL
Red Pepper Deli
116 W. Main St., Northville; 248-773-7672

BEST GREEN RESTAURANT
Mind Body & Spirits
301 S. Main St., Rochester; 248-651-3663

BEST VEGETARIAN NOT IN A VEGETARIAN RESTAURANT
Lebanese Grill
1600 Rochester Rd., Troy; 248-526-1444

BEST PLACE TO SATISFY YOUR MEAT TOOTH
Roast
1114 Washington Blvd., inside the Westin Book-Cadillac, Detroit; 313-442-1600

BEST RETRO EXPERIENCE
Clawson Steak House
56 S. Rochester Ave., Clawson; 248-588-5788

BEST SMALL PLATES
Gala: A New American Bistro
33316 Grand River Ave., Farmington; 248-478-2355

BEST TAPAS
Sangria
401 S. Lafayette Ave., Royal Oak; 248-543-1964

BEST DINER
Maple Leaf Café
297 Maple Rd., Birmingham; 248-723-1222

BEST FINER DINER
The Fly Trap
22950 Woodward Ave., Ferndale; 248-399-5150

BEST FRIENDLY NEIGHBORHOOD BAR AND RESTAURANT
Woodbridge Pub
5169 Trumbull, Detroit; 313-833-2701
I heart you!

BEST FOOD IN A SPORTS BAR
Broadcast Booth
6550 Allen Rd., Allen Park; 313-389-5050

BEST DETROIT HISTORICAL TOUR WITH YOUR BURGER
Anchor Bar
450 W. Fort St., Detroit; 313-964-9127

BEST KITCHEN IN A COCKTAIL LOUNGE OR JAZZ BAR
Cliff Bell's
2030 Park Ave., Detroit; 313-961-2543; cliffbells.com

BEST PLACE TO SING A GERMAN DRINKING SONG
Dakota Inn Rathskeller
17324 John R St., Detroit; 313-867-9722

BEST PLACE TO HAVE A DRINK BEFORE, DURING AND AFTER DINNER
Slows Bar-B-Q
2138 Michigan Ave., Detroit; 313-962-9828
Ah, they still found a way to squeeze Slows in.

BEST TAKEOUT
Lazybones Smokehouse
27475 Groesbeck Hwy., Roseville; 586-775-7427

BEST $5 SANDWICH, STORY AND A SMILE
Ernie's Market
8500 Capital St., Oak Park; 248-541-9703

BEST DINNER AND A SHOW
Telway Diner
6820 Michigan Ave., Detroit; 313-843-2146

BEST NEIGHBORHOOD BAKERY
Pinwheel Bakery
220 W. Nine Mile Rd., Ferndale; 248-398-8018

BEST CHOCOLATE CHIP COOKIE
Au Bon Pain
100 Renaissance Center, Detroit; 313-393-2271; Campus Martius, 800 Woodward Ave., Detroit; 313-226-6600; Detroit Medical Center, 4201 St. Antoine St., Detroit; 313-832-4801; www.aubonpain.com

BEST CRÈME BRÛLÈE
Grape Expectations
555 Forest, Plymouth; 734-455-9463
She might have chocolate and vanilla (i.e., traditional) creme brulee, but what about Passionfruit? Head to the Rattlesnake.

BEST ICE CREAM
Shatila Bakery & Café
14300 W. Warren Ave., Dearborn; 313-582-1952

BEST DESSERTS
Sweet Lorraine's
29101 Greenfield Rd., Southfield; 248-559-5985; also locations in Detroit and Livonia
That bread pudding really is good.

If there are any restaurants that failed to receive their own category, contact the Metro Times staff and maybe they'll do another Best-Of 2009 in three months and include it. Ah, I kid, I kid! At the very least, this sizable best-of list will expose a lot of great restaurants to a lot of new people, and that dear foodies is a good thing. Bon appétit!

Monday, April 27, 2009

Metro Times Best Of Detroit Dining, Part 1

Whether you agree with the Metro Times readers' picks for the best in metro Detroit dining or not, you must admit that to get the nod from Detroit's most recognized best-of list certainly makes any place worthy of a second look (except in certain categories..."Best Gourmet Pizza," I'm looking at you). Below are both the readers' and the staff selections for the best cuisine in the D...along with my own annotations and alternates, naturally.

Readers' Picks

BEST NEW RESTAURANT
BEST RESTAURANT UNDER $15 PER DINER
BEST GREEK RESTAURANT

Kalamata Greek Café
3149 Crooks Rd., Troy; 248-643-2600; kalamatagreek.com
They campaigned for the win, which automatically deters from their credibility. However, a good Greek place outside of Greektown (which by and large isn't necessarily the best Greek in the area) is still worth a look.

BEST RESTAURANT UNDER $50 PER DINER

Atlas Global Bistro
3111 Woodward Ave., Detroit; 313-831-2241; atlasglobalbistro.com
Yeah, okay. No argument there.

BEST RESTAURANT TO IMPRESS OUT-OF-TOWNERS
BEST BARBECUE
BEST BEER SELECTION IN A RESTAURANT

Slows Bar-B-Q
2138 Michigan Ave., Detroit; 313-962-9828
While my heart of hearts tells me that there just MAY be a better BBQ place in some strip mall on 7 Mile, Slows' popularity amongst Detroiters and tourists alike cannot be denied. And I can't argue with the beer selection nod, though I can offer Cadieux Cafe and Red Coat Tavern as alternates.

BEST MEXICAN RESTAURANT

Xochimilco's
3409 Bagley, Detroit; 313-843-0179
OMG, vomit. This is one of those instances in which readers' polls need to be wadded up and used for toilet paper.

BEST ROMANTIC RESTAURANT

The Melting Pot
• 26425 Novi Rd., Novi; 248-347-6358
• 888 W. Big Beaver Rd., Troy; 248-362-2221
• 309 S. Main St., Ann Arbor; 734-622-0055
There is absolutely nothing romantic about watching me shovel cheese fondue into my face as fast as I can so as to maximize the amount I get to eat, but I can see how someone else might think so. As an alternate, I recommend the patio of It's a Matter of Taste in Commerce Township. The food is merely good (trying to hit haute cuisine but not quite succeeding), but the view (a giant stone patio overlooking a quiet lake) and the sense of romance and serenity is unmatched.

BEST SEAFOOD RESTAURANT

Mitchell's Fish Market
• 117 Willits, Birmingham; 248-646-3663
• 17600 Haggerty Rd.; Livonia; 734-464-3663
• 370 North Adams, Rochester Hills; 248-340-5900
I've yet to try Saltwater, Detroit Fish Market, or Ocean Prime, but my guess is any one of them is likely superior to Mitchell's. It's not that it's a bad place...but if it's fresh seafood flown in daily with a constantly revolving list of specials based on availability and great pride in exotic selections, try Northern Lakes Seafood Company in Bloomfield Hills. Many go for the Copper River Salmon (when in season), but the Nairagi is a MUST.

BEST FRENCH RESTAURANT

The Earle
121 W. Washington, Ann Arbor; 734-994-0211
I've never been, so I cannot argue, but I will say I'm glad it wasn't The Lark.

BEST CARIBBEAN RESTAURANT

Bahama Breeze
539 E. Big Beaver Rd., Troy; 248-528-1674; 19600 Haggerty Rd., Livonia; 734-542-0891
Another reason why voting is overrated.

BEST ITALIAN RESTAURANT

Andiamo
21400 Michigan Ave., Dearborn; 313-359-3300; see andiamoitalia.com for more locations
If you honestly voted for Andiamo as the best Italian restaurant, I hereby ban you from my blog. Also, see Bacco in Southfield, or La Dolce Vita once the new chef from Il Posto finishes revamping the menu.

BEST AFRICAN RESTAURANT

Blue Nile
545 W. Nine Mile Rd., Ferndale; 248-547-6699; additional locations in Ann Arbor and Trenton; bluenilemi.com
I admit to never experiencing Blue Nile for myself, so I can have no opinion on it, but if it is ANYTHING like Taste of Ethiopia (review coming tomorrow), then I spit on this culture's shameless and entirely uninformed co-opting of quasi-"ethnic" foods just because they're different. "Ethiopian" food (which is nothing like ACTUAL Ethiopian food, save for the bread) is the new sushi. Just wait 'til we start packing it full of mayo, cream cheese, and avocado.

BEST CHINESE RESTAURANT

PF Chang's China Bistro
2801 W. Big Beaver Rd. Troy; 248-816-8000; locations in Clinton Township, Northville and Dearborn; more locations at pfchangs.com
Yeah, it's tasty, I won't deny it. But the BEST??? Anyone here heard of Chen Chow?

BEST MIDDLE EASTERN RESTAURANT

Anita's Kitchen
22651 Woodward Ave., Ferndale; 248-548-0680
A longtime Troy favorite finds plenty of new blood in Ferndale. While a place with a more Arab-sounding name in a more Arab-dense part of town (Al-Ameer, Dearborn) might have the advantage over Anita's, it's still a good place.

BEST THAI RESTAURANT

Sala Thai
3400 Russell St., Eastern Market, Detroit; 313-831-1302; see salathai.us for more locations
In my experience, most Thai places are created equally, so one is as good as any other. Sala Thai wins by prominence, and good for them for that.

BEST SUSHI

Noble Fish
45 E. 14 Mile Rd., Clawson; 248-585-2314
I've been hearing good things about this place for some time, and can say nothing more than at least it wasn't Oslo again.

BEST EASTERN EUROPEAN RESTAURANT

TIE
Amadeus
122 E. Washington, Ann Arbor; 734-665-8767
*
Polish Village Cafe
2990 Yemans St., Hamtramck; 313-874-5726
I know very little about this category, so I'm taking the readers' words on it, even though I am extremely reluctant to do so.

BEST INDIAN RESTAURANT

Priya
36600 Grand River Ave., Farmington Hills, 248-615-7700; 72 W. Maple Rd., Troy; 248-269-0100
Okay.

BEST AFTER-HOURS RESTAURANT
BEST CONEY ISLAND

Lafayette Coney Island
2 Congress, Detroit; 313-879-0038
No, no, no, it's not, it's really really not.

BEST BUFFET
BEST CASINO BUFFET

MGM Casino, Palette Dining Studio
1777 Third St., Detroit; 313-465-1777; mgmgranddetroit.com
I hear better things about Greektown's new buffet, but it is still fairly new so we'll see.

BEST VEGAN RESTAURANT

Inn Season Cafe
500 E. Fourth St., Royal Oak; 248-547-7916

BEST VEGETARIAN RESTAURANT

Seva
314 E. Liberty St., Ann Arbor; 734-662-1111
I am completely unqualified to judge the two above categories. How about "Best Restaurant That Serves Nothing But Meat"? Five Lakes Grill in Milford.

The following categories are an insult to my intelligence as a pizza lover...though $5.00 Hot-N-Readys really ARE a good deal.

BEST NEIGHBORHOOD PIZZA
Buddy's
17125 Conant St., Detroit; 313-892-9001; for more locations visit www.buddyspizza.com

BEST CHEAP PIZZA
Little Caesars
littlecaesars.com

BEST GOURMET PIZZA
Pizza Papalis
553 Monroe St., Detroit; 313-961-8020; for more locations, see pizzapapalis.com

BEST BURGER
Red Coat Tavern
31542 Woodward Ave., Royal Oak; 248-549-0300
Damn skippy.

BEST BREAKFAST
Original Pancake House
Locations in Birmingham, Grosse Pointe Woods and Southfield; originalpancakehouse.com
Aw, hell, why not the Big Boy breakfast bar while we're at it? :/

BEST SOUL FOOD
Beans & Cornbread
29508 Northwestern Hwy., Southfield; 248-208-1680
Or, my friend's mom's kitchen. Either way.

BEST DELI
Zingerman's
422 Detroit St., Ann Arbor; 734-663-3354; see zingermansdeli.com for more locations
Hells yes.

BEST BREWPUB
Arbor Brewing Company
114 E. Washington St., Ann Arbor; 734-213-1393
Since the Church Brew Works is in Pittsburgh, this will have to do.

BEST WINE LIST
BEST WINE BAR
Vinotecca
417 S. Main St., Royal Oak; 248-544-6256
They were much better when they first opened, and NO they do NOT have the best wine list, not even if the rest of Oakland County burned down.

BEST APPETIZERS
Tom's Oyster Bar
24935 Jefferson Ave., St. Clair Shores; 586-774-TOMS; with locations in Royal Oak, Rochester Hills and Detroit
I think this is one of those instances where people didn't know what else to put.

BEST BAKERY
Avalon International Breads
422 W. Willis St., Detroit; 313-832-0008
Yes. Though not the only one worthy of recognition (see: anywhere in Hamtramck).

BEST DESSERTS
Astoria
541 Monroe St., Detroit; 313-963-2530320 S. Main, Royal Oak; 248-582-9220
Ugh. Voting should be a privilege, not a right.

BEST INDIE COFFEEHOUSE
Café 1923
2287 Holbrook, Hamtramck; 313-319-8766
Finally, something we can agree on!

Stay tuned for my take on the Metro Times Best Of 2009 Staff Picks, coming soon!

Thursday, April 23, 2009

Upcoming Dining Events

A great mix of events with wine tastings, a scotch ale tasting, cooking classes, and food story sharing!

-----------------------------------------------------
Friday, April 24th: Fridays at Flemings presents “Great Wines of the Great Northwest”

Wines from Washington and Oregon will be featured in this casual, entertaining walk-around tasting with appetizers prepared by Chef Partner Mark Strausberg. To purchase tickets log onto DetroitWine.org or purchase at Flemings the night of event.

Where: Fleming’s Prime Steakhouse and Wine Bar, Livonia
When: 6:00PM-8:00PM
Tix: $35.00
http://www.detroitwine.org/

----------------------------------------------------
Friday, April 24th: Art After Dark at the Costick Center

Art After Dark allows you to taste a selection of 30+ fine wines and a wonderful array of delectable, complimentary foods, all from Whole Foods Market, while strolling through over 200 pieces of artwork for exhibit and sale, all part of the Farmington Area Festival of the Arts. Live jazz filters through the room, compliments of the 20-piece OCC Jazz Band. The atmosphere is elegant but not dressy--lots of fun for all. And the food and wine are GREAT! Don't miss it!

Where: Costick Center, Farmington Hills
When: 7:00PM-10:00PM
Tix: $20.00 advance, $25.00 at the door
http://www.fhgov.com/

------------------------------------------------------
Saturday, April 25th: Great Lakes Bioneers Detroit’s Food Stories at the First Unitarian Universalist Church

Please join us for a day of tales and food, to celebrate the Earth, the new growing season, and our Detroit neighbors who will share their stories about food. Please bring your own food stories to share. Lunch will be provided by Chef Phil Jones of Jones Urban Foods. The Lab's Angela Newsom shares her "Food Story" at this exciting event.

Where: First Unitarian Universalist Church, Detroit
When: 10:00AM-3:30PM
Tix: $3.00-$10.00 suggested donation
http://www.detroitevolution.com/

------------------------------------------------------
Sunday, April 26th: Michigan VegFest

VegFest features food from local restaurants, lectures, cooking demonstrations and free samples. Detroit Evolution Laboratory will have a table and the Lab's Angela Newsom will offer a Raw Foods demonstration. Ferndale High School 881 Pinecrest in Ferndale (south of 9 mile, west of woodward). Admission is $10 at the door $5 for students and free to kids under 6 and VegMichigan members.

Where: Ferndale High School, Ferndale
When: Noon-5:00PM
Tix: $10.00, $5.00 students
http://www.vegmichigan.com/

------------------------------------------------------
Tuesday, April 28th: Scotch Ales Tasting at John Cowley & Sons

Join us as we present Rex Halfpenny for a tasteful discussion on Scotch Ales. Rex will discuss the history and style characteristics while you sample a number of beers. $20 will get you light appetizers, your first pint from our taps, the style samples, and Rex’s Informative Oration.

Where: John Cowley & Sons, Farmington
When: 7:00PM-10:00PM
Tix: $20.00
http://www.johncowleys.com/

------------------------------------------------------
Tuesday, April 28th: Raw Gourmet Kitchen Class

The preparation of Raw Foods can be simple or quite complex. For this Raw Gourmet Kitchen Class Angela will share elegant healthy recipes that will inspire beginning and advanced Raw Foodists alike. In this class we will prepare a mouth watering Raw Caponata served with Angel-hair Zucchini Noodles and incredible Raw Garlic Bread. The perfect meal for a lovely spring dinner.

Where: Detroit Evolution Laboratory, Detroit
When: 7:00PM-9:00PM
Tix: $30.00
http://www.detroitevolution.com/

-------------------------------------------------------
Wednesday, April 29th: A Taste of Italy at Enoteca Campo Marzio

Wine tasting celebrating Italy. Fun and informative event hosted by sommelier Robert Bassett. Includes appetizers, tax and gratuity.

Where: Enoteca Campo Marzio, Detroit
When: 6:30PM-8:30PM
Tix: $30.00 all-inclusive
http://www.enotecadetroit.com/

Wednesday, April 22, 2009

Bet You Didn't Know: The Chop Shop

Half ready-made, half do-it-yourself, the Chop Shop in Birmingham is a destination prep kitchen at which working moms, clueless singles, overwhelmed holiday and dinner party hosts, time-constrained families and people just looking for a fresh, healthy, home-cooked meal without the stress and clean-up can stop in and prepare ready-to-go meals for themselves and their families in a fun, friendly, and stress-free environment.

The Chop Shop offers a variety of options for take-home meals: 12 different entree options, updated monthly, are available for your "prep session" (don't worry--there's an orientation before you begin and plenty of help to guide you along the way). There is also a variety of sides available for carry-out, as well as a free mini cheesecake tray with purchase of 10 entrees. If all that chopping and recipe-following isn't quite your bag (you and I then have much in common), never fear: there is also a strictly carry-out option available, with your meals prepared and frozen by the staff for you to pick up and take home.

The Chop Shop doesn't just save you time, though: it also saves you money. Entrees are available to order in packages of 6 or 10, and cost as little as $3.59 per serving! (Dividing and carry-out is extra; save the most money by ordering 10 entrees and prepping them yourself.)

Other services provided by the Chop Shop include full party prep (with party favorites such as a Burger Bar, BBQ Baby Back Ribs, and Chicken Fajitas), as well as private prep sessions perfect for a Girl's Night Out or an alternative to the typical (boring) baby or wedding shower. (Private sessions require a minimum of 12 guests and must be booked 14 days in advance; each guest chooses and pays for his/her own meals.) Grab a bottle of wine and start chopping! (But, you know...be careful with that. Easy on the wine.)

All meals offered by the Chop Shop include full nutritional information as well as additional nutritional notes (i.e., "good fiber source"), and include simple cooking instructions for you to follow once you get the meals home. Each entree is 6 USDA servings, and can be split into servings of 2-3 for smaller families for a nominal fee. Head to the Chop Shop to save time, money, have a little fun with your food, and maybe even eat a little healthier! (If you're anything like me, "home cooking" means DiGiorno's; California Pizza Kitchen from the freezer aisle if I'm feeling fancy.) This is a clever way to make the concept of home cooking exciting again.

The Chop Shop is located at 2219 Cole Street in Birmingham, 248-594-2210. Prep sessions must be reserved 24 hours in advance and are subject to availability; carry-out orders must be received 3 days in advance. To reserve your prep session, group session, or place a carry-out order, visit their website at http://www.chopshopkitchens.com/. For party prep, contact the Chop Shop to discuss your catering needs.

Monday, April 20, 2009

Brunch at Park Bar!

Oh, but I do love a good brunch! Currently in the works are plans for Detroit's Park Bar, in conjuction with the restaurant Bucharest Grill located inside the bar, to be open early for lunch, as well as a Sunday brunch with all the fixin's! A full brunch menu--think omelets and French toast, mmmm--as well as brunch-friendly beverages like Bloody Marys and bottomless mimosas will soon be available Sundays at Park Bar. And if you haven't tried the food at Bucharest Grill yet, just know that it is just as flavorful and tasty sober as it is after a drinking binge, and this bodes well for the forthcoming brunch.

Sundays in Detroit just keep getting better! Viva la brunch revolución!

Friday, April 17, 2009

Upcoming Dining Events

------------------------------------------------------
Friday, April 17th: Winemaker’s Spring Celebration Gala Dinner at the St. Clair Center for the Arts in Windsor

After the rigors of the past winter, it’s time to celebrate the return of spring, and the budding out of the vines in our local vineyards, with a special evening out.
Treat yourself to a spectacular gala dinner and world-class local wines, all while supporting Harrow Rotary’s local and international projects.
Featuring:
•Opening sparkling wine reception;
•A five course dinner, prepared by Chef Daniele Palanca and the Staff of the St. Clair Centre for the Arts;
•Wines from 6 of Essex County’s outstanding wineries, selected to compliment each course. Each course will be introduced by the winemaker;
•A spectacular venue overlooking the Detroit river and Detroit skyline;
•A Silent Auction of items of particular interest to wine and food enthusiasts;
•Proceeds to be directed to the Harrow Family Health Team, and Rotary International’s PolioPlus program.

Where: St. Clair Center for the Arts, Windsor
When: 6:30PM-11:00PM
Tix: $125.00 CDN, $110.00 USD
Presented by the Rotary Club of Harrow

------------------------------------------------------
Saturday, April 18th: “Heart of the City”

Join the Junior Board of Boys Hope Girls Hope of Detroit as we heighten your senses and ignite your passion for making a change at "Heart of the City" Saturday, April 18 at Mercedes-Benz of St. Clair Shores.

Dance the night away to the pulsating sounds of DJ's Tom T, Captn 20 and Urban Organic while enjoying exquisite food and drinks from 15 of the area's hottest restaurants and bars, a live art show and more. Join the area's elite tastemakers and style leaders as they give back to the youth of metro Detroit. General admission tickets for this event are $55 and VIP Booth packages are available and can be purchased at www.neptix.com.

Where: Mercedes-Benz, St. Clair Shores
When: 9:00PM-midnight
Tix: $50.00
www.neptix.com

-----------------------------------------------------
Sunday, April 19th: South African Wine Tasting and Relaxation Seminar at the Charles H. Wright Museum of African American History

The CPN invites you to the South African Wine Tasting and Relaxation Seminar. This event will include a South African Wine Merchant offering fabulous wine selections and instruction. The fundamentals of relaxation will be learned through the Yoga & Tai Chi inter-active demonstrations. We will have special performances by Thiosane Performing Arts Company, which is a Youth "Traditional Dance" Troupe. Throughout the evening there will be guided tours of the Charles H. Wright Museum, which is "the world's largest institution dedicated to the African American experience." Also, there will be a silent auction with items including wine, artwork and so much more.

Proceeds to benefit Brightmoor Child Care Provider Network: Quality Early Child Care and Education Programs for Children Birth to 5 years old.

Dress comfortably and prepare to release, relax and revive.

Where: Charles H. Wright Museum of African American History, Detroit
When: 6:00PM-9:00PM
Tix: $30.00 advance
www.maah-detroit.org

-------------------------------------------------------
Tuesday, April 21st: Wines of South America at Mon Jin Lau

In recent years, the wines of South America have captured the imagination of the American wine consumer.

From 2002 to 2006 exports to the USA tripled and that trend has continued over the past two years.

The wines of Chile and Argentina represent a stunning array of everyday values to world-class cellar-worthy collectibles.

Join Mon Jin Lau Restaurant and Red Wagon Wine Shoppe for a Tasting of South American Wines.

Strolling Nu-Asian Appetizers.

Where: Mon Jin Lau, Troy
When: 6:00PM-8:00PM
Tix: $30.00 advance, $35.00 at the door
www.monjinlau.com

------------------------------------------------------
Wednesday, April 22nd: Breakfast at the Townsend

Please join us for a delicious breakfast at the Townsend Hotel on April 22, 2009 to learn more about Boys Hope Girls Hope of Detroit and meet some of our scholars, past and present. It's all free, including the parking, so please stop by and learn more about this wonderful organization and the leaders it is producing.

Where: The Townsend Hotel, Birmingham
When: 7:30AM-8:30AM
Tix: Free admission
www.boyshopegirlshope.org

-----------------------------------------------------
Wednesday, April 22nd: Fisher Vineyards Wine Maker Dinner

Fisher Vineyards Wine Maker Dinner
With Owner Fred Fisher
April 22, 2009

Reception 6:30 pm

Passed Appetizers
2006 Fisher Vineyards, Mountain Estate Chardonnay, Sonoma

Dinner 7:00 pm

Fish Course
Smoked Halibut
Watercress, Morel and Hazelnut Salad
2006 Fisher Vineyards, Mountain Estate Chardonnay, Sonoma

Pasta Course
Veal Cheek Ravioli
Celery Root Puree, Sweet Peas, Apple Consommé
2006 Fisher Vineyards UNITY Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley

Main Course
Roast Lamb Loin
Wild Mushroom Pierogi, Braised Ramps, Lamb Nage
2005 Cameron Napa Valley Red Wine

Dessert
Warm Chocolate-Stilton Brioche Pudding
Vanilla- Red Chili Ice Cream, English Toffee
2005 Fisher Vineyards “Coach Insignia” Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley
Chocolate Barks and Bites

French Press Coffee Service
Bon Appétit
Executive Chef Brian Henson

Where: Big Rock Chophouse, Birmingham
When: 6:30PM-9:30PM
Tix: $150.00 including tax, tip, and valet
www.bigrockchophouse.com

-----------------------------------------------------
Thursday, April 23rd: D’Amato’s Madiran Wine Dinner

Featuring Wines from Alain Brumont from Madiran, France
Thursday, April 23, 7pm
$55 excluding tax & gratuity

First Course
Charcuterie
Duck Prosciutto, Pastrami Cured Scottish Salmon, Chicken Liver Pate
2005 Chateau Montus

Second Course
Veal Poached Sage & Roasted Garlic Sausage
with Meyer Lemon Risotto & Shaved Grilled Zucchini
2006 Torus

Third Course
Wild Alaskan Halibut
wrapped in Puff Pastry with Porcini Mushroom Duxelles, Prosciutto di Parma,
Fiddlehead Ferns, tossed in a light Tomato Vinaigrette
2007 Brumont Blanc

Fourth Course
Strawberry & Pistachio Tortoni Cake Roll
with Pistachio Gelato, Strawberry Puree, Fresh Mint
2007 Brumont Rose

Fifth Course
1990 Chateau Montus "Cuvee Prestige"
1 oz. Tasting Portion

Chef: Myles McVay
Wine Director: Christian Stachel

Where: D’Amato’s, Royal Oak
When: 7:00PM-10:00PM
Tix: $55.00 plus tax and gratuity
www.damatos.com

Thursday, April 16, 2009

April Supper Club at 24 Grille

Detroit Synergy’s Supper Club is once again ahead of the curve, taking this month’s event to experience another new face in Detroit dining: the recently-opened 24 Grille, inside the Westin Book-Cadillac. On Wednesday, April 29th, Supper Club will invade the ultra-stylish and sleek 24 Grille for an evening of contemporary regional and American cuisine, and once again offers a bargain diners won’t find anywhere else: $30.00 inclusive of tax and gratuity, with an optional two-glass wine flight for an additional $10.00.

“I’ve been very active with Detroit Synergy in past years,” states Gideon Pfeffer, one of the five partners in the Entourage Restaurant Group which owns the Grille. “We’re very excited to be hosting this event with this group, and we look forward to welcoming everyone to our elegant space and creative cuisine.”

Innovative and daring Executive Chef Jason Gardner has created a three-course menu specifically for this event, highlighting some of 24 Grille’s most popular specialties:

Salad: Tomato Caesar with shaved parmesan, Romaine, and charred tomato Caesar dressing

Entree (Choice of):
*Pan-Roasted Amish Chicken Breast with butternut squash purée, roasted sweet garlic, and sage-infused Jus Lié
*Braised Short Ribs with shaved garlic, wilted escarole, gold raisins, and horseradish hollandaise

Dessert: Chef’s selection specialty dessert

Tickets are $30.00 in advance at the DSG store, http://shop.detroitsynergy.org/, and include tax and gratuity. There will also be an optional two-glass wine flight available for an additional $10.00. Tickets to this event are available by online purchase only, and all purchases must be made by Tuesday, April 28th. Due to capacity issues, there will be a strict adherence to a 40-person limit. There will be absolutely no walk-ins permitted. Tickets are first-come, first-served.

24 Grille is yet another example of Detroit’s ever-growing fine dining industry. With so many wonderful restaurants opening over the past year, some might fear that there is a glut; but all have thus far seen a tremendous amount of success and popularity, with 24 Grille rounding out the recent additions and already being a destination for Detroiters and Detroit tourists alike. With its soothing interiors decorated in chocolate hues and warm woods with accents such as intricately modern crystal chandeliers, prominent hand-blown glass lighting fixtures, and a polished-granite slab “fireplace” (seen decorated with votive candles and a center gas flame), the style is both plush and industrial, both welcoming and extremely high-art; much like the menu, which features haute cuisine takes on classic Midwestern and traditional American dishes. 24 Grille is fast becoming a “see and be seen” hotspot for trendy Detroiters imbibing in a cocktail or looking for an inventive meal; see for yourself the restaurant that had celebrities and national media raving over NCAA weekend!

Detroit Synergy is a 501(c) 3 non-profit organization. Its mission is to generate positive perceptions and opinions about Detroit by bringing together a diverse community and building upon the City's strengths and resources to realize a common vision for a greater Detroit. Please visit http://www.detroitsynergy.org/ for more information about the group.

Tuesday, April 14, 2009

More Unfortunate Restaurant Closings

Southfield's AAA Four Diamond-rated Il Posto remains closed after shuttering its doors earlier this year for what it called a "winter break." Since then, Il Posto's longtime head chef Matteo Giuffrida has taken on the position of executive chef of Detroit's urban oasis, La Dolce Vita. This is wonderful news for this tucked-away trendy eatery (and the timing--right before the lush courtyard reopens for the summer--is nothing short of serendipitous), though sad for the now-even-more-uncertain fate of Il Posto. Il Posto was the only example in metro Detroit of traditional 5-star Italian fine dining (tuxedoed waiters, a flurry of attendees from water-boys to crumb-scrapers at every table, a menu entirely in Italian, sterling silver cart service), and the food was superbly authentic Italian. While I am grateful that this talented chef has landed somewhere that will suit him well (he is currently rewriting LDV's menu, but the pricing structure will remain true to LDV's current menu, as compared to the significantly pricier Il Posto), I am sad to see another staple of Detroit's fine-dining fall victim to the abyssmal economic climate. Co-owner Tony Giustos remains mum on Il Posto's future plans.

In related news, Royal Oak's Fiddleheads closed its doors for the last time on Saturday. Owner Colette Farris blames the economy and lack of steady business on why this much-enjoyed (though somewhat hidden) contemporary American restaurant was forced to close. She has no immediate plans for the future.

I sincerely hope to see a cessation in posts such as this one, though these times are uncertain and unlikely to improve anytime soon.

Saturday, April 11, 2009

Simply Disappointing: D'Amato's


I had always seen D’Amato’s in Royal Oak as I would walk by to hit one of the other bars (often that bar would be Goodnite Gracie, connected to the restaurant and sharing the same owners). I had written it off as yet another chotchy Royal Oak restaurant, packed with people every evening with an über-trendy atmosphere and matching over-priced, over-hyped, overly generic menu to match. The appeal seemed all commercial with no substance (sadly, as has become the fate of so much of Royal Oak). Until I ate there for the first time.

On my first-ever visit to D’Amato’s, I opted for the Napolatana pasta, spaghetti tossed with crushed tomatoes, roasted garlic, fresh basil, and parmigiano reggiano. The rather basic garlic-and-olive-oil approach to pasta just so happens to also be one of my favorites—sometimes simple just works best, and when accented with flavors such as fresh ground pepper, parmesan, or a variety of other small touches, this deceptively demure dish can actually be a mouthful of flavor. One bite of the Napolatana pasta at D’Amato’s and I was wowed. Not since a place called The Big Tomato in Windsor (long since closed) served their garlic-and-olive oil linguine with red pepper flakes had I experienced this humble dish with such excitement. For months afterwards I would tell people that D’Amato’s was actually “surprisingly good” (with an equal amount of surprise in my own voice as I would tell them), based solely on the strength of this one dish. I finally decided to fully test my theory and see if the trend holds for the rest of the menu.


It doesn’t.

While I must give D’Amato’s credit for certainly trying, everything about the rest of their menu is overdone. They attempt to mix flavors to create interesting and creative contrasts, utilizing strong sauces to complement strong meats, ensuring that all the sauces used have a very prominent flavor.

And boy do they. The Zucchini Lemon Risotto tasted like a mouthful of Pledge. The Pork Shoulder Ravioli had a vinegar reduction sauce which was so strong it made my lips pucker and my mouth sting.

To start you will receive a bread basket with thick and slightly dry chunks of garlic-scented bread. I say “garlic-scented” because the garlic flavor is not very strong and it otherwise tastes like a hearty white bread. You’ll also get olive oil for dipping, and if you’re really lucky a plate of grated parmesan cheese to mix with the oil (I was one for two here). You’ll have a friendly waiter who will be willing to offer you recommendations from the menu or wine list, and is consistently polite even when you do express your distaste for a particular dish, such as when my dining partner honestly answered “I don’t really like it” when asked about his Lemon Risotto. Proper etiquette was upheld and a replacement dish was offered though refused.


We started with two appetizers (smart diner’s tip: sign up for their mailing list and receive a coupon for a free appetizer with purchase of any entrée) from the fairly standard starters menu—Italian no-brainers such as Calamari and Bruschetta abound. We opted for the Lamb Chops with mint pesto and balsamic glaze and the Pork Shoulder Ravioli with Michigan cherry balsamic sauce, arugula, pistachios, and Manchego cheese. The Lamb Chops were fine, though a little tough. The mint pesto was a nice touch, and the balsamic wasn’t overpowering…unlike in the Ravioli, which had a balsamic reduction so strong that it drowned the other flavors of the dish and more or less killed my palate. The meat otherwise wasn’t very juicy, as braised pulled pork should be, and even the stinging balsamic sauce couldn’t conceal that.



For the pastas, we sampled the Zucchini Lemon Risotto made with dry vermouth, toasted pine nuts, and oregano which, as I mentioned already, was so overpoweringly LEMON that all I could think about while eating it was how badly I needed to dust. We also tried the Papparadelle, with porcini mushrooms, prosciutto, asparagus, white truffle oil, and mascarpone cheese. The Papparadelle tasted good enough but looked like a child’s sick pile after a particularly jerky roller coaster and a heavy lunch. The smell was heavenly, though: the perfume of white truffles was fragrant and lovely. The prosciutto was julienned, which seemed odd, and was a bit thicker and a bit tougher than how it is typically served. Not bad…not particularly good, either. The noodles themselves do not appear to be fresh, and while D’Amato’s prides itself on its use of fresh local ingredients from farmer’s markets and fish flown in daily, there is no mention of pasta being made in-house. Fresh homemade pasta cooked perfectly al dente has a certain texture and flavor that sets it apart (see: Angelina Italian Bistro in Detroit); this was not that. And yes, while the Napolatana is outstanding, it seems to be the stand-alone standout.


I opted not to sample very much from the entrée menu as Atlantic Salmon and Chicken Marsala are simply not wow-worthy dishes (once again, D’Amato’s falls back on generic Italian standards that are pleasing to inexperienced palates), though the Filet Mignon served with fingerling potatoes, asparagus, prosciutto, leeks, trumpet royale mushrooms and a sherry cream sauce does sound tasty. A different dining partner tried the Lemon Chicken (again with that lemon), sautéed chicken breast made with artichokes, capers, lemon white wine sauce, spaghetti, and sautéed broccoli. It looked, smelled, and tasted exactly as I expected it to—a little too lemony; otherwise mild and kind of boring.


However. You should know by now I’m a sucker for a good cheese plate. I couldn’t completely write this place off without first sampling their selection of artisanal cheeses, which were Sage Derby, Maytag Bleu, and Fontinella served with a variety of crackers and fruit. The bleu cheese was sharp and creamy (and heart-a-tastic!), the Fontinella mild and soft, the Derby tangy and interesting. Bonus points for not being the standard cheddar-and-brie fare, though not enough to save the place.


Like so many other mediocre trendy restaurants, D’Amato’s certainly does have its one or two really good dishes. The question then becomes who might really have the patience to sift through the otherwise disappointing menu on repeat visits just to find those one or two stand-outs if they did not stumble upon them the first time as I did? Because I can assure you, had the Papparadelle been my first meal there, I would have simply written D’Amato’s off as just another generic Italian eatery in overly-trend-driven Royal Oak.

The saving grace just might be Goodnite Gracie, the jazz and martini bar attached to the restaurant and under the same ownership. This has always been known as a great place to see live music and imbibe in an artful, imaginative martini. This place is always crowded, which is as much a testament to its popularity as it is to the Royal Oakiphiles’ compulsion to crowd everything. Yes, much like the restaurant, it is the Royal Oak crowd one is forced to deal with here at Gracie’s. Best to steer clear Thursday through Saturday. But they do mix a damn good martini, many of which are also available at D’Amato’s. My Espresso Martini was exactly what I hoped it would be, like a straight shot of iced espresso with alcohol in it.

The wine list is kind of a diamond-in-the-rough sort of deal—mostly garbage, with some truly outstanding choices in between. From the “By the Glass” list I opted first for the Finca La Pinta Cristobal 1492 Malbec; completely uninteresting (what Malbecs used to be before they started to gain strength as a stand-alone grape and the reason why these stand-alone Malbecs were not taken seriously by connoisseurs for some time). Next I decided to try the Villa Puccini Sangiovese, a grape that rarely does wrong, and it was…fine. Just fine. Not very complex or heady, but fine. For the most part, this is a Santa Margherita crowd and thus a Santa Margherita menu; however, there is the occasional bright spot on the menu: Kim Crawford Sauvignon Blanc for only $36.00 is one of them. The Spy Valley Riesling is another good buy, and the Terra Andina Carmenere from Chile is twenty-eight-dollars’ worth of South America’s mind-blowing best (what’s even better is that you can get it at Cost Plus Wine Shoppe in Eastern Market for only $8.00). And I know I’ve told you before about the Emilio Moro Tempranillo…a little pricier at $48.00, but still worth every penny. And ohdeargod they also have Col Solare, and ohdeargod you should try it. Again, expensive; again, worth every penny. There’s even some Lebanese wine listed, which could potentially be interesting. It is no small wonder then that D’Amato’s is quite a popular spot for wine tastings and wine dinners; for the wine lover there is just enough here to keep it exciting, and the prices are quite reasonable and cater to a lower budget (but not necessarily a lower quality).


Over, D’Amato’s is a simple place with simple food. The food isn’t really good, but it isn’t really bad either. The savvy (and patient!) diner can get lucky. The crowd can be a bit…much, but that is not so much the restaurant’s fault as the curse of its location. However, with its dumbed-down version of nouveau Italian, the restaurant certainly caters to the crowd—so it’s a wash. Service is solid from the host stand to the bartender to the busboy, and the wines are definitely worth a look. My recommendation is to take a loved one or a fellow foodie for a bottle of wine and a cheese plate either before or after your real meal elsewhere. Or hit Gracie’s for a digestif and some jazz or techno. Or order the Napolatana pasta for a meal (which is a real value at only $11.00). After that, you’re on your own. I warned you.

D'Amato's is located at 222 S. Sherman Dr. in Royal Oak. Dinner is served Mon.-Wed. 5:00PM-10:00PM, Thurs.-Sat. 5:00PM-11:00PM, and Sunday brunch is 11:00AM-3:00PM. For event and menu information, visit their website: www.damatos.com.

Thursday, April 9, 2009

Special Feature: Easter Brunch

How Easter ever got to be the official holiday of Brunch (or is that Mother's Day? or both?), I'll never know, but I'm not complaining. Next to cheese and pizza, brunch is my favorite, and nothing says brunch quite like bottomless mimosas and a breakfast buffet. This Easter, give mom a break from the kitchen and BRUNCH! (It's not just for gay guys and New Yorkers anymore.)

--------------------------------------------------------
Easter Brunch & Tour of the Ford House

Guests dine on an elegant Easter brunch and tour the grounds of the historic mansion.

Where: Edsel and Eleanor Ford House, Grosse Pointe Shores
When: 11:30AM-2:00PM
Tix: $33.00 adults/$18.00 children with tour; $25.00 adults/$13.00 children without
www.fordhouse.org

---------------------------------------------------------
Easter Brunch at the Rattlesnake Club

The Rattlesnake's legendary Easter Brunch is the perfect place to celebrate
the seasonal of renewal with family and friends!

Our bountiful brunch buffet display will delight everyone in your group. Leave the cooking (and cleaning!) to the Rattlesnake!

Enjoy our Brunch Menu with items such as our Chef prepared Omelette & Waffle Station, Baked Honey Cured Ham & Eggs, Smoked Scottish Salmon, Carved Spice Crusted Roast of Prime Rib of Beef, Salads and many more Rattlesnake Specialties including our lavish Dessert Table!

Where: The Rattlesnake Club, Detroit
When: 11:00AM-2:00PM
Tix: Adults $38.00, children 12 & under $10.00
www.rattlesnakeclub.com

-----------------------------------------------
Easter Brunch with the Matt Prentice Group

Including his four flapship fine-dining restaurants: Coach Insignia (Detroit), Shiraz (Bingham Farms), No. VI Chophouse (Novi), and Northern Lakes Seafood Company (Bloomfield Hills).

Brunch features a made-to-order omelet bar, an upscale breakfast station, carved prime rib and honeybaked ham, shrimp station, creative salads, entree station, and chef Tiffany's sweets table.

Coach Insignia
Adults: $34.95
Children: $15.95
Children 5 & under free

Shiraz, No. VI, & Northern Lakes
Adults: $29.95
Children: $15.95
Children 5 & under free
www.mattprentice.org

----------------------------------------------

Opus One Sunday Brunch

The Opus One Sunday Brunch Prix Fixe includes your choice of Mimosas, Bloody Mary’s, Orange Mojitos, coffee, soft drinks or juice (two drink maximum) and either an appetizer and an entrée (either breakfast or luncheon) or an entree and a dessert for $22

Or

The drinks mentioned above and a Prelude, an Orchestration and a Finale for $28

Where: Opus One, Detroit
When: 12:00PM-3:00PM
Tix: $22.00 or $28.00
www.opus-one.com

------------------------------------------
Signature Grill Easter Brunch Buffet

Called "The Best-Kept Secret in Detroit" by Hour magazine, Signature Grill typically doesn't serve Sunday brunch but are open for Easter with a made-to-order omelet station, seafood station, salad bar, and more.

Where: Signature Grill, Detroit
When: N/A
Tix: $24.95 adults, $14.95 children
www.signaturedetroit.com

--------------------------------------------
D'Amato's Restaurant and Goodnite Gracie Martini Bar Brunch Buffet

Come on out on Sunday April 12th for D'Amato's first annual Easter Brunch Buffet! They'll be serving the works, complete with a ham carving station. Items included are French Toast, scrambled eggs, assorted Quiche, potato hash, Applewood smoked bacon, sausage, mixed wildberry crepes, assorted fresh fruit, smoked salmon, fresh foccacia, caesar salad, assorted vegetables, etc. They'll also be serving our famous bottomless mimosas and bellinis.

Where: D'Amato's, Royal Oak
When: Two seatings--11:30AM & 1:30PM
Tix: $24.00 adults, $7.00 children
www.damatos.com

-----------------------------------------------

Also serving Easter Brunch:

Detroit
Majestic Cafe
Union Street Saloon
Atlas Global Bistro
Woodbridge Pub
Seldom Blues
Detroit Breakfast House

Troy
Kona Grill
Larco's Italian Chophouse
McCormick & Schmick's Seafood
Morton's the Steakhouse
Ocean Prime
Ruth's Chris Steakhouse

Birmingham
Rugby Grille

Southfield
Morton's the Steakhouse

Northville
Rocky's of Northville

Upcoming Dining Events

-------------------------------------------------------
Friday, April 10th: Opening Day for the YMCA

A ballpark breakfast benefitting the YMCA’s strong kids campaign, featuring traditional breakfast fare inside the Garden Bowl and more ballpark-minded eats on the Alley Deck; stick around to watch the game on their high-def big-screen TVs.

Where: The Majestic Complex, Detroit
When: 9:00AM-3:00PM
Tix: $25.00 adults, $15.00 kids 15 & under
www.ticketmaster.com

------------------------------------------------------
Wednesday, April 15th: Opus One Winemaker Dinner at Iridescence

Please join us for a very exclusive wine dinner event as Iridescence welcomes Gina Voci from Opus One to guide us through an impressive array of some of the finest wines that Opus One produces and a seven course Degustation menu designed to complement the parings by Chef de Cuisine Adam Hightower and Executive Pastry Chef Patricia Nash. Please give us a call at 313-237-6732 for reservations.

6:30pm Cocktails
7:30pm Dinner

Where: Iridescence, Detroit
When: 6:30PM-10:30PM
Tix: $190.00 plus tax and gratuity
www.motorcitycasino.com

------------------------------------------------------
Wednesday, April 15th: German Wine Tasting at John Cowley & Sons

Wednesday Night Wine Tasting

German Wines on April 15th at 7pm

Join us twice a month for our Wednesday night wine tasting featuring Sommelier Mike Larranaga. We will sample four wines each paired with a regional cuisine small plate prepared by Chef Zachariah Peterlin.

$30/person - Reservations Required 248-474-5941

Where: John Cowley & Sons Irish Pub, Farmington
When: 7:00PM-10:00PM
Tix: $30.00
www.johncowleys.com

Sunday, April 5, 2009

Detroit Restaurant News, from Greektown to Corktown

One restaurant's ending is another's beginning, and there's a lot of that going on in Detroit right now. First up, overlooking the three-story lobby of the newly-opening Greektown Casino Hotel, is Bistro 555, a casual dining spot serving breakfast, lunch and dinner daily (Sun-Thurs 6:00AM-11:00PM, Fri & Sat 6:00AM-midnight). Next is Mediterra Italian Bistro, the long-rumored Italian restaurant taking place of the original New Hella's location. While legal battles have stalled the opening of this venture, Ted Gatzaros still plans to open this much-buzzed-about and already controversial Mediterranean/Italian eatery. The signs in the windows still promise "Coming Soon," and I hope it doesn't get held up much longer. As much as an Italian place in Greektown has caused old-world Greektowners to gasp, complaining that it takes away some of Greektown's authenticity and cultural homogeneity, the Mediterranean theme is still very much in keeping with the predominent Greek cuisine in the area, and downtown is hurting for a really solid contemporary Italian spot (aside from the lone Angelina). Being that it is still Greek-owned, methinks the complaint over the choice of cuisine is just a lot of unnecessary hoopla indicating a crippling aversion to change (and nervousness over competition) as opposed to a sharp business sense and a genuine concern for the welfare of the area.

In sadder news, the Central Business District's Indian spot Sizz'l-N-Spice, located on Monroe St., celebrated its final weekend with the Final Four, after which they will no longer be open for business. A shame to lose this lunchspot as it is one of the only restaurants within city limits offering genuine Indian cuisine; one may be hard-pressed to find such a place nearby now, especially after the loss of the superior Kathmandu Chullo in Royal Oak last October, which offered first-rate Nepalese food. Detroit still has American Masala near Wayne State; Hamtramck offers the Pakistani/Indian Taj Mahal, as well as the Indian cafe Gandhi. Ferndale isn't too far away and boasts the popular Star of India. Otherwise one might be forced to travel out as far as Troy to try Ashoka, or Auburn Hills where Rangoli is located.

And in happier news, I had a wonderful lunch at the colorful, eclectic Le Petite Zinc today. I'll save the praises for a forthcoming review, but I can tell you now that beginning April 8th they will be extending their hours to 10:30PM (presumably Mon.-Sat.).

That's it for now; now get out there and EAT!

Thursday, April 2, 2009

Upcoming Dining Events

------------------------------------------------------
Friday, April 3rd: Wine Tasting and Live Jazz Night at Vitner’s Cellar

Come enjoy an evening of wine tasting and the smooth sounds of "Birds on a Wire" featuring the vocals of Kristin Coy. Light hor d oeuvres will be provided as well. 7 - 10 pm, April 3rd.

RSVP to Vintner's Cellar of Royal Oak to reserve your spot. 248-591-WINE

Where: Vitner’s Cellar, Royal Oak
When: 7:00PM-10:00PM
Tix: $20.00
www.royaloakwinery.com

-----------------------------------------------------
Friday, April 3rd: Veuve Cliquot Wine Dinner at the Capital Grille

The Capital Grille is proud to announce our Veuve Cliquot Wine Dinner on Friday April 3rd at 6:30p.m., featuring the Brand Manager of Veuve Cliquot Geraud LeClerca. This will be a six course wine dinner featuring some amazing pairings such as Turtle Soup with 2002 Veuve Cliquot Brut, 2002 Veuve Cliquot Brut Rose with Roasted Sturgeon with Vanilla Bean Beurre Blanc & Osetra Caviar and the 1998 La Grande Dame with Veal accompanied by Homemade Sage Gnocchi & Wild Mushroom Ragout. This evening will be a night to remember! Please call The Capital Grille at (248) 649-5300 and ask for a manager to make your reservation.

Where: The Capital Grille, Troy
When: 6:30PM-9:30PM
Tix: $195.00 inclusive of tax and gratuity
www.thecapitalgrille.com

------------------------------------------------------
Tuesday, April 7th: Elk Cove Wine Dinner at the Forest Grill

FIRST COURSE
HOUSE SMOKED SALMON CARPACCIO
WITH CREAM FRAICHE, FRIED CAPERS, CELERY LEAVES, WHITE TRUFFLE OIL
PAIRED WITH ELK COVE SPARKLING WINE, WILLAMETTE VALLEY, OR 1999

SECOND COURSE
SPRING MELON CONSOMMÉ
WITH CRAB AND AVOCADO TIMBALE
PAIRED WITH ELK COVE PINOT GRIS, WILLAMETTE VALLEY, OR 2007

THIRD COURSE
MADEIRA ROASTED SQUAB
WITH MOLE VERDE, STONE FRUIT AND CHARRED TOMATO
PAIRED WITH ELK COVE “WINDHILL VINEYARD”, PINOT NOIR, WILLAMETTE VALLEY, OR 2007

FOURTH COURSE
PAN ROASTED BREAST OF DUCK
WITH GARLIC SAGE SAUSAGE, WILD MUSHROOM RAGOUT, RISSOLE POTATO, AND PINOT NOIR REDUCTION
PAIRED WITH ELK COVE “ROOSEVELT VINEYARD”, PINOT NOIR, WILLAMETTE VALLEY, OR 2006

DESSERT COURSE
APPLE TARTE TARTIN
WITH CARAMEL ICE-CREAM
PAIRED WITH ELK COVE “ULTIMATE WHITE WINE” (RIESLING, GEWURZTRAMINER, MUSCAT), WILLAMETTE VALLEY, OR 2007

PLEASE MAKE YOUR RESERVATION NOW, MUST BE HELD WITH CREDIT CARD. SEATING IS LIMITED.
Where: The Forest Grill, Birmingham
When: 6:30PM
Tix: $100.00 plus tax and gratuity
www.theforestgrill.com

-----------------------------------------------------
Wednesday, April 8th: Diner’s Club at Lefty’s Lounge

Detroit Diners Club celebrates April in the D

Lefty's is a relatively new but welcome addition to the sports bar circuit of midtown Detroit. With defending Stanley Cup champion Red Wings playoffs and the new Tigers season in full swing, April is one of the BEST months to be in Detroit. With so many items to choose from, their best deal is the Burger, fries and 22 oz Boomba deal, bar-none! We're kicking off the baseball season with the Detroit Diner's Club Wednesday, April 8th at Lefty's Lounge on Cass Ave. in Detroit

Who: Anyone. Bring a friend.
What: dinner at Lefty's.
What does that include:
1) a half-pound burger,
2)fries
3) a 22 ounce domestic boomba.
4) Tax and gratuity included.
Cost: $8.00.

Tickets: Space is limited, so reservations MUST be made in advance. Request tickets online stingwicki@gmail.com, pay at the door the day of the event.

Will there be anything else: You can always order additional drinks if you desire. Tigers play Toronto that night at 7:07 EST and there's at least 10 TV screens.

Directions: 5440 CASS AVENUE, DETROIT, MI 3 BLKS NORTH OF WARREN AND 2 BLKS SOUTH OF 94 ON CASS.CASS IS 1 BLOCK WEST OF WOODWARD

Parking info: parking is available onstreet or in nearby garages for a fee.

Where: Lefty’s Lounge, Detroit
When: 6:30PM
Tix: $8.00 all-inclusive
www.detroitsynergy.org