Monday, March 16, 2009

Bookies: Bigger and Better


Our little Bookies is all growed up! After the ultimely closure of the Book Tower in January 2009, Bookies Bar & Grille (formerly Bookies Tavern) moved to their brand-new, completely renovated location at 2208 Cass (at the corner of Columbia) and just opened their doors for business last week.

This move was long in the making, as owners John Lambrecht and Mark Jerant had begun to see the "writings on the wall" of the imminent closing of the Book Tower, Bookies' home (and namesake) since it opened its doors in 2003. They wanted to keep their bar downtown as they feel very passionately about the downtown community, and when they found the location at Cass and Columbia they knew it would be their new bar. They planned on opening a new location here regardless of what happened with the Book Tower (this would simply have been a second bar with a different name), but as it happened the new location was seredipitous and allowed for a speedy transition of the old Bookies to the new.

And what a transition it was! Upon entering the new building, I could still smell the construction--sawdust and plywood and plastic--new building smell, not umlike new car smell, and not at all unpleasant. The first floor serves as the main dining area, and it is open, airy, and spacious, with high ceilings and tall windows and a gorgeous stone and granite bar that seats 20. There are six high definition plasma televisions lining the walls and a 16-foot projection television behind the bar to suit all of your sport-watching needs (which is what the former Bookies was known and loved for). There is a narrow spiral staircase leading up to the DJ alcove above the front door, and a décor that is markedly more trendy and contemporary (such as the stone walls and bar).


But that's not all...an elevator will take you up to the other floors. On the second floor you'll find a VIP lounge which overlooks the dining area and offers bottle service, its own private bar, private bathrooms, two more high defintion plasma televisions, and plush white couch lounge seating (also, if the VIPs don't care for the music the DJ is spinning, different music can be piped into this room, as well as the third floor). On the third floor you'll find the "lounge," three more high def plasma TVs, and the spacious rooftop patio deck which is sure to be a huge summertime hit.

In perhaps the greatest accomplishment of the new location, Bookies now serves food. Lambrecht and Jerant hired on 19-year restaurant veteran John Rodemich IV--who has served as the Executive Chef at Chuck Muer, 5ive in Plymouth, Sweet Georgia Brown, and most recently came from Michael Symon's Roast in the Westin Book-Cadillac. Rodemich serves as Bookies' Executive Chef, and has created a menu of contemporary American cuisine at reasonable prices that appeals to both the lunch and dinner crowds. The menu includes creative appetizers, hearty soups and salads, inventive sandwiches and entrees, and decadent desserts. Gone are the days of the simple burger and beer, as Bookies went and got itself gourmet. The kitchen is open until 11:00PM daily, with a limited menu available after 11:00PM.

Bookies is also still appealing to the downtown work and sports crowd by offering free shuttle service to and from sporting events as well as to and from workplaces (so downtown workers can enjoy lunch without having to move their cars, deal with parking or traffic issues, etc.). Just call ahead an hour before your desired pick-up time at 313-962-0319 or send an email a few days in advance to bookiesdetroit@gmail.com. Otherwise, secured and well-lit free parking is available in the lot behind the building. All three floors are available for party rentals, and Bookies was already named by the National Collegiate Athletic Association (NCAA) as the hometown bar for fans of the East Regional team that advances to the Final Four being held at Ford Field in April.

When I was there on Saturday, I was struck by the newness, the contemporariness, and the appeal this new location offers. The stone accents modernize this "sports bar" (which I think in all fairness needs to be considered much more than just that), and the contemporary American menu puts this restaurant on par with any other mid-tier restaurant offering contemporary cuisine in the city (the Majestic Cafe and Union Street specifically come to mind). DJ Sohand, whom I had never heard of before but now consider myself a fan, was spinning in the DJ booth top 40 hits by everyone from Keri Hilson to the Killers to Kanye West and "Calabria" mixed with his own house techno beats; the uninterrupted techno-flow made me feel like I was in the hottest club in town. The third floor lounge was packed and there were people filling all the first- and second-floor tables. And it was all so clean and trendy and modern and new! This is a far cry from the original Bookies...and might I say, a vast improvement. Bookies has graduated from a simple sports bar to a trendy dining spot, an ultralounge, and an entertainment megaplex. Brava, Bookies.

And as for the food: I sampled the "B.A.T. Sliders" (sweet and spicy bacon with avocado, tomato, and mayonnaise) and the Apple BBQ "Go Wings." The bacon on the sliders was thick and meaty, full of the promised sweet-and-spicy flavor, and the sauce on the wings was thick, tangy, and sweet, strong with a maple-hickory-apple flavor. Other selections include Salmon Cakes with a spicy remoulade sauce, BBQ Pork Sliders or a full sandwich (served with fries) with the same Apple BBQ sauce and tabasco onion frizzles, a New York Strip Steak with Guinness Peppercorn Cream Glaze and tabasco onion frizzles (with choice of fries, rice pilaf or roasted vegetables), and a "Fantastic French Toast" for dessert, served with vanilla ice cream and caramel maple syrup. The menu is small but the selections are unique, flavorful, and reasonably priced. Also, the waitstaff is extremely eager to please, helpful, and attentive, and I saw several familiar faces from the Detroit bar and restaurant scene who have described this new Bookies as "more [their] speed."



This new location promises to appeal to a wide variety of clientele, from the sports fans and locals who were with them from the beginning to the savvy nightlife scenesters and the discriminating diners that would not have had reason to frequent the old locale. Well done, Bookies. When life gave you lemons you went and made lemonade (or, at least, vodka lemondrop shots).

Sunday, March 15, 2009

All the (Proof) You Need

Friday night I was at (Proof) Martini Lounge on Woodward celebrating my friend's birthday. I made a decision long ago to try a new martini every time I visit there, and so I am slowly but surely making my way through their extensive martini menu (I believe it's some 100+ martinis?). While the drinks aren't cheap--$8.00-$12.00 on average--they are tasty, and also rather pretty. Take for example the Bomb Pop Martini, the one that popped my (Proof) cherry back in '06. It looks and tastes like a bomb pop popsicle, with the liquors settling in layers that is a shame to mix (ah, but you must, unless you like mouthfuls of single flavors).

This time around I had the Pineapple Upside Down Cake--Stoli Vanil, pineapple juice, and grenadine with a cluster of pineapple and cherries on the rim--and the Detroit Lunch Box--vodka, beer, and a hint of tabasco sauce. The Pineapple Upside Down Cake was served with the grenadine at the bottom so the drink kind of looked like an (upside down) Upside Down Cake. (Again, you must stir it after the fact, but the presentation is worth it). The Detroit Lunch Box might sound disgusting but I assure you--it was like having your Bloody Mary with the chaser all at once. Surprisingly tasty, and the hint of tabasco really set it apart.

If you love martinis but don't love big bar tabs, come during happy hour on Mondays and Fridays. Fridays from 4:00PM-7:00PM enjoy half-off martinis, and Mondays enjoy half-off martinis and appetizers 4:00PM-midnight. At the very least, you'll get through the whole martini menu twice as fast!

(Proof) is also known as a hub for house music--trance, trip-hop, techno, and dance DJs spin all weekend, and there's usually no cover. It's a great place to dance as much as a great place to chill and enjoy an artful martini; a favorite Detroit hotspot.

Friday, March 13, 2009

Matt Prentice's Lastest Venture

In an innovative and forward-thinking project on health and healing, Matt Prentice--well-known local restaurateur and chef--has partnered up with the newly-opened Henry Ford West Bloomfield Hospital to create over 3,000 recipes that are 99% organic to not only provide patients with high-quality foods during their recovery time, but also to provide them with foods that may actually assist in their recovery.

Organic foods retain more vitamins and minerals than those that are mass-produced, and the ingredients Prentice utilizes in such items as his hearty broths are selected because they not only taste good but they provide such benefits as boosting the immune system and fighting cancer. While there are some hospitals that do offer limited organic menus, Henry Ford West Bloomfield looks to be the first of its kind to be fully dedicated to the use of organic ingredients and wholly subscribe to the belief that, well--you are what you eat.

The hospital looks towards opening two greenhouses on its campus in the future, one for learning and the other for production, and currently sources its organic produce from Chef's Garden in Ohio and Earthbound in California. The hospital is also building a relationship with Schoolcraft College's Culinary Arts Program, which plans on a course in healing cuisine in the Fall and is in discussion with the hospital of a joint health care culinary institute, as well as having developed with Ford a series of community education programs called "Culinary Partners in Health."

Prentice himself claims to have learned more about the correlation between diet and health in the last two years than in a lifetime of cooking and studying at culinary institutes. He plans a new patient- and quality-focused approach to hospital cuisine, taking restaurant standards of quality and cleanliness into the hospital kitchen, which has historically been known to focus only on the keeping down food costs. Prentice also contends that, in the longrun, investing in slightly more expensive ingredients will actually save the hospital money by shortened length of visits, and that organic cooking (if done efficiently and portioned properly) is actually less expensive than purchasing prepared foods.

As people become increasingly more interested in holistic approaches to health and healing, the food we eat suddenly becomes more important than ever before. There is a growing realization that sustainable cuisine (which includes organic and locally-produced foods) not only tastes better, but helps your body heal faster and feel better. The days of 50-year-old hausfraus scooping some unidentifiable slop onto your grandmother's hospital food plate or your son's school cafeteria tray (Michigan is also on the forefront of sustainable cuisine in school cafeterias) are fast disappearing, and are being replaced with bonafide chefs who have trained at real culinary institutes and have made a committment to quality food made with quality ingredients with the health and wellness of the patient or student in mind. Thank the Food Network or the nation's faddish fascination with all things going green...whatever it is, it's about damn time.

Remember: you are what you eat.

Source: Metromode.

Detroit Synergy Supper Club at the Rattlesnake

PRESS RELEASE MARCH 12, 2009: This month Detroit Synergy Group is very excited to announce our Supper Club at the world-renowned Rattlesnake Club. On Wednesday, March 25th beginning at 6:00PM, Supper Club heads to the Detroit riverfront to one of the most acclaimed dining establishments in Michigan—the Rattlesnake Club, located at 300 River Place.

“We’re very pleased to be able to host this event here,” Private Dining and Catering Manager Amy Engelbert declares. “Many people have a misconception of what the Rattlesnake Club is all about. We want to welcome these new faces and show them we’re not ‘stuffy’ at all. And we also want to do something above and beyond past Supper Club events and make this one truly one to remember!”

For this event, participants will indulge in some of world-renowned Chef Jimmy Schmidt’s infamous cuisine, as well as some new inspirations from his kitchen:

Salad (Choice of):
o Organic Field Greens tossed w/Apple Cider Vinaigrette, Golden Beets Carrot Strings, Crispy Onions & Grated Parmesan
o Willy's Caesar Salad w/Romaine Hearts, Garlicky Dressing & Parmesan Crisp;
Entree (Choice of):
o Ginger Scented Wild Atlantic Nova Salmon: Ginger Crystal Coated Salmon Swimming in a Sweet Corn Risotto, Splashed w/Ginger Froth, Scallion & Crispy Ginger Salad)
o Live Smoked CAB Beef Short Ribs Braised in Rich Rattlesnake Barbeque Spices then Live Hickory Smoked Atop Roasted Cauliflower Smash, Tobacco Onion Rings
o Maple Roasted Breast of Free Range Chicken Pan Roasted atop Butternut Squash Ravioli, Roasted Cippolini & Chantrelle Mushrooms, Splashed with Parmesan Froth & Fried Sage
Dessert (Choice of):
o Flourless Pressed Chocolate Cake served w/Housemade Vanilla Ice Cream & Caramel Sauce
o Lavender & White Chocolate Creme Brulee w/Caramelized Raspberries, Burnt Turbinado Sugar Crisp & Pyramid

Tickets are $30.00 in advance at the DSG store, http://shop.detroitsynergy.org, and include tax and gratuity. (NOTE: Tickets might not be available for purchase immediately. Please check back again.) There will also be an optional two-glass wine flight available for an additional $10.00. Tickets to this event are available by online purchase only, and all purchases must be made by Tuesday, March 24th.

Afterwards, join the Rattlesnake Club for an afterglow in their scenic Grill Room, where fantastic Happy Hour specials will be extended for Detroit Synergy members after dinner. Happy Hour specials are as follows: $2.00 Domestic Beer Bottles, $3.00 Well Drinks, $4.00 Wine Selections, $5.00 Wall of Vodka (100 choices shaken, stirred, or up).

The Rattlesnake Club carries with it quite a bit of “old Detroit” cachet. Chef Jimmy Schmidt began his culinary career in Detroit as the Executive Chef and Executive General Manager at Detroit’s historic and world-famous London Chop House, which he left some 20 years ago to open his own restaurant—the Rattlesnake Club in Denver, followed by the Detroit location. Since then he has opened another location in Palm Desert and continues to offer the same cutting-edge cuisine that has garnered him international recognition, including being honored with the title “Best Chef of the Midwest” by the prestigious James Beard Foundation (and to this day remains the only recipient of this award in Michigan). He is also the Chairman of Chefs Collaborative, which includes culinary stars Jacques Pepin, Wolfgang Puck, and Mark Miller in a collaboration of commitment to sustainable cuisine and utilizing local ingredients. The Rattlesnake Club has garnered international recognition as one of the finest restaurants in the region, and Detroit Synergy’s Supper Club is both fortunate and thrilled to be holding our March event at such a distinctive and prominent location.

Detroit Synergy is a 501(c) 3 non-profit organization. Its mission is to generate positive perceptions and opinions about Detroit by bringing together a diverse community and building upon the City's strengths and resources to realize a common vision for a greater Detroit. Please visit www.detroitsynergy.org for more information about the group.

Tuesday, March 10, 2009

Upcoming Dining Events

There are a number of great dining events coming up in the next several weeks, and I will be keeping you updated along the way. Starting tonight, check out Detroit Synergy Group's newest food-focused social outing, "Diner's Club." From there enjoy wine tastings, wine pairings, and winemakers' dinners to your heart's content.

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Wednesday, March 11th: Detroit Synergy Diner’s Club at Eph’s

The kickoff of for the NEW Detroit Diner's Club will be at Eph's on Woodward. Eph's features a daily array of great deli sandwiches named after legendary Detroit icons & landmarks, hot soups, plus a hot cup of Joe or a Fa! ygo. They're also well-known for their famous bread pudding & whiskey sauce. Scope out the great plethera of vintage signage, photos & maps that tell a story or two of old Detroit. So come join us for some great eats and conversation.

When: 6:30pm
Where: 608 Woodward Ave. located on the east side of Woodward just north of Congress in downtown Detroit. Look for the big pickle!
Parking is available onstreet or in nearby garages for a fee.

Cost is only $13.00 and includes:

1) Four small sandwiches from their most popular menu items on one plate:
• THE MABLE CLARK ~ An Irish Reuben Style Sandwich, it features corned beef, swiss, slaw, russian dressing on an onion roll
• THE DUBLIN GARDEN ~ Lettuce, Tomato, spinach, Mayo, Red Onion, Dijon, Sprouts , Havarti on whole grain bread
• THE WOODDBRIDGE ~ Just like the Dublin but add a generous amount of turkey
• THE CAMPUS MARTIUS ~ Roast Beef, Horseradish, Red Onion, Lettuce, on an Onion Roll

2) A Beverage of your choice: Bottle of Vernors, Stewarts Ginger Beer or orange soda, IBC Root Beer, or Coffee.

3) Tax and gratuity.

Tickets: Space is limited, so reservations MUST be made in advance. Tickets are available on the DSG store http://shop.detroitsynergy.org and must be purchased by 9:00PM on Sunday, March 8th; cash reservations must be received by 3:00PM Monday, March 9th. (Editor's note: there's always room for walk-ins; send a note to the email address below.)

Will there be anything else? We're told the bread pudding with whiskey sauce is TO...DIE...FOR... but you may be already stuffed so that is an optional dessert item if you have the room. We'll also be stopping by Cliff Bell's afterwards for some live jazz with the Scott Gwinnell Orchestra & cocktails with some cool cats. Cover is $5.00 at the door plus drinks, optional of course.

For more info, contact Steve Holowicki detroitdiners@detroitsynergy.org
For additional info, visit http://www.yelp.com/biz/eph-mcnallys-detroit

Where: Eph’s, Detroit
When: 6:30PM
Tix: $13.00 (must RSVP in advance to ensure availability)
http://www.detroitsynergy.org/

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Thursday, March 12th: Wine & Cheese Pairing at Vitner’s Wine Cellar

Wine and cheese pairing in downtown Royal Oak.
Come try four of our wines with four cheeses from around the world.
Relaxed environment....a great way to spend an early evening or start your night out.
Please contact us at 248-591-9463 to reserve a spot.

Where: Vitner’s Wine Cellar, Royal Oak
When: 6:00PM-8:00PM
Tix: $15.00
http://www.royaloakwinery.com/

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Thursday, March 12th: Rock ‘n Roll Wine, “Amplified” Wine Tasting at 336 Main

An “Amplified” wine tasting. Making wine more accessible, less pretentious, and more fun by pairing it with live music in interesting venues. On Thursday, March 12th, Rock ‘n Roll Wine gets shakin' at 336 Main---a club and martini bar in Plymouth. 336 Main offers a respite from the franchise pub and sports bar crowd by espousing the concept of keeping it casually upscale with quality beer, wine, liquor and excellent live entertainment. As usual, RnR Wine will be pouring a brand-new mix of the underappreciated, unusual, and just plain good wines from all over the globe.

One of 336 Main's regular entertainers, Rick Canzano, will be performing a wide mix of popular covers and original entertainment. Canzano is a dynamic live performer, who plays several instruments, and has honed his craft throughout the clubs of Detroit.

A $25 advance ticket lets you sample all of the music and wine that your heart desires. The cost goes up to $30 the day of the show.

Wine pouring starts at 6:30pm, live music begins shortly thereafter. See you there!

Where: 336 Main, Plymouth
When: 6:30PM
Tix: $25.00 advance, $30.00 at the door
http://www.rnrwine.com/

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Friday, March 13th: Vintage Rock Wine Dinner Featuring Mike Fleetwood Riesling and Doobie Red at Fleming’s

OPENING SONG
GROOVY GOAT CHEESE & OVEN DRIED TOMATO CROSTINI
Double Platinum Champagne Cocktail
An original creation by rock star mixologist Kim Haasarud,
author of 101 Champagne Cocktails

MEGA-HIT
ROCKIN' SHRIMP & BLUE CHEESE DIPPING SAUCE
served with spring greens and batons of carrots
MICK FLEETWOOD PRIVATE CELLAR,
Riesling Central Coast, 2005
This refreshing, off-dry 2005 Riesling crafted by Mick
Fleetwood is the winner of numerous awards and accolades.

CHART TOPPER
KILLER FILET MIGNON
served with sautéed chard, tomato and whole grain
festival fries
DOOBIE RED, North Coast Collectors Series, 2005
Having managed The Doobie Brothers for over 35 years,
B.R. Cohn Winery's Bruce Cohn named this Collectors Series after the artists.

ENCORE
SMOKIN' BROWNIE SUNDAE
dark chocolate brownie, fudge sauce, raspberry sauce,
chantilly cream, chopped candied walnuts
Coffee or Tea

Where: Fleming’s Prime Steakhouse & Wine Bar, Birmingham
When: 6:30PM-9:00PM
Tix: $55.00 (excludes tax and gratuity)
http://www.flemingssteakhouse.com/

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Tuesday, March 17th: A Night in the Andes Wine Dinner at Forest Grill

Hour Detroit’s “Restaurant of the Year” presents “A Night in the Andes”
March 17th, 2009, 6:30 P.M.

Prepare to feast with Chef/Proprietor Brian Polcyn's and Executive Chef David Gilbert's collaboration as they bring you Latin America fare paired with award winning wines from Argentina and Chile.

Seating is limited for this event.

Lime Marinated Snapper
Avocado, Mango, and Green Papaya
Accompanied with: Trivento Torrentes, Mendoza Argentina 2007

Sopa De Quinoa
Roasted Sweet Peppers, Garlic, Poached Egg, and Pepper Broth
Accompanied with: Terrunyo Sauvignon Blanc, Casablanca Valley Chile 2007

Aired Dried Ham
Fried Plantains, Pickled Chayote & Bacalao Pebre Sauce, Queso Fresco shot
Accompanied with: Amelia (CYT) Chardonnay, Casablanca Valley Chile 2005

Slow Roasted Loin of Lamb
Poblano Peppers, Empanada, Raisins, Chimichurri
Accompanied with: Trivento Golden Reserve Malbec, Mendoza Argentina 2006

Braised Beef Cheeks
Smoked Tongue, Fresh Bacon
Accompanied with: Terrunyo “Peumo Vineyard,” Carmenere, Cachapoal Valley Chile 2006

Churros
Dulce De Leche, Tropical Fruit
Accompanied with: Concha Y Toro Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc, Maule Valley Chile 2005

$85 per Person Plus Tax and Gratuity
Reservations are made with a credit card only.

Where: Forest Grill, Birmingham
When: 6:30PM
Tix: $85.00 plus tax and gratuity
http://www.theforestgrill.com/

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Friday, March 20th: Duckhorn Wine Dinner at The Reserve

This Event will Sell Out

Reception 6:30 pm

Passed Appetizers
2007 Duckhorn Vineyards, Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc
2006 Decoy, Napa Red Wine

Dinner 7:00 pm

Poached Butterfish

Baby Rocket and Fennel Salad, Dragon Fruit-Satsuma Vinaigrette
2007 Duckhorn Vineyards Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc

Foie Gras Cappuccino
Quinoa and Duck Breast
2006 Migration Pinot Noir, Anderson Valley

Intermezzo

Veal Loin

Quince and Lentil Ragout, Pancetta, Olive Puree
2005 Duckhorn Vineyards Napa Valley Merlot Three Palms Vineyard

Dessert
“Rocky Road”
2006 Paraduxx, Napa Valley Red
Chocolate Barks and Bites

French Press Coffee Service
Bon Appetit
Executive Chef Brian Henson

Where: The Reserve at Big Rock Chophouse, Birmingham
When: 6:30PM-9:30PM
Tix: $150.00 inclusive of tax, tip, and valet
www.thereservebirmingham.com

Monday, March 9, 2009

Happy Hour Specials at the Rattlesnake

You wouldn't think it because of its hoighty-toighty reputation, but the Rattlesnake Club in Detroit has some of the best happy hour specials in the city (especially for a fine dining establishment).

Check it out:

4:00PM-7:00PM Tuesdays through Fridays

Tuesdays The Wall of Vodka
Choose any of their 100 vodkas shaken, stirred, up or on the rocks -- your choice for $5.00

Wednesdays Martini Madness
Enjoy the Rattlesnake's house-infused martinis for $5.00

Thursdays & Fridays
$2 Domestic beer bottles
$3 Well drinks
$4 Wine selections
$5 Wall of vodka

Enjoy complimentary artisanal pizza served during happy hour on Thursday & Friday.

$5.00 martinis and a wall of vodka? AND pizza??? Yes, please.

Friday, March 6, 2009

It's Really Pronounced "Fort": Forté


It's been years since I've been to Forté in Birmingham. What I do recall was a largely unremarkable experience; a whole lot of flair with little else, and a solid but overpriced wine list. Suffice it to say it did not make my short (or even semi-extended) list of places I would put in my regular rotation.

Then I recently found out that Don Yamauchi, formerly of Tribute Restaurant in Farmington Hills (a former favorite of mine) which is operated by the Epoch Restaurant Group which also owns Forté, is now the Executive Chef there (after a brief stint at the MGM Grand Michael Mina restaurants--by the way, MGM seems to have a hard time maintaining quality staff--most of those who went there in search of greener pastures have since left and returned to the area's tightly networked independent fine restaurants). Since taking over late last summer, Yamauchi has completely transformed their menu, making it a little more affordable and now serving breakfast, lunch and dinner.

(Note: hours may vary over the next month or so as the restaurant closes sporadically for renovations.)

Yamauchi has maintained his very unique cooking style. As a half-Latino, half-Japanese chef raised in the southwest with Tex-mex cooking traditions, Yamauchi has maintained his multicultural identity on this simple, unpretentious menu. Hearty meat-and-potatoes -style dishes meets a smattering of more delicate fare, but unlike Tribute (where Yamauchi had to follow in the steps of the indomitable Takashi Yagahashi, a difficult adjustment to make for all involved), this is not haute cuisine. Perhaps it never really was, but under Yamauchi Forté has become the kind of place where one-pound pork chops and whole chickens marinated in sea salt and cinnamon dominate the menu.

Catering heavily to good ol' boy American tastes, Forté's menu features items such as an Iceberg "Wedge" Salad (chopped iceberg lettuce with candied pecans, bacon, grape tomatoes, and 1000 Island Dressing), a great big whopping wedge of culinary faux pas in any fine-dining establishment but here, it just seems to fit. There's also pizza--plain old regular build-your-own pizza--and for kicks, the Forté Kobe Cheeseburger (a half pound of kobe beef on a brioche bun with Don's special sauce). The menu may be simple and overly American, but here it seems like Yamauchi is finally having some fun.


We started with a basket of their soft and easily tearable fresh-baked salt-and-herb-encrusted bread, served piping hot with creamy butter. I then moved on to the Buffalo Chicken Spring Rolls with celery and bleu cheese (Far East meets southwest if ever there was), which tasted exactly how you think they would and made me want to drop all etiquette to lick my fingers and ask for a wet nap. Other starters include Chilled Vegetarian Spring Rolls and a Crispy Maki Beef Roll with horseradish aioli, and this is where Yamauchi's Asian culinary background is most evident on the menu (aside from the creative Wasabi Mashed Potatoes served with the whole chicken). You can also order "Garlic Braised Snails." Yes, "snails." Not escargot. Snails. Another fine dining faux pas but at this point you should expect the unexpected here.


Like the truffle pig I am, for dinner I sniffed out the one thing that made this menu most intriguing to me: the Eggs Rosini. Short rib hash, foie gras, and white truffle hollandaise. One of my favorite dishes in some time, and quite a standout on a menu of steaks and chicken pot pie. Even though it didn't really seem to belong on the menu, it definitely belonged in my mouth. The hollandaise was strongly aromatic of white truffles and the foie gras was absolute perfection--probably the best-prepared foie gras I've ever had, cooked to a perfect temperature and not at all burnt. The flavor was also fairly mild for foie gras, and melted in my mouth like butter right alongside the decadently rich hollandaise and slightly crisp short rib hash. Plus, the title egg, which added even more richness.


The desserts sounded delectable, but at that point I had consumed a week's worth of fat grams and was ready to be rolled to my car. I did sample some of my friend's Fresh Fruit and Sorbet with lemon and strawberry house-made sorbets. A perfectly light palate-cleanser.

The wine list is as solid as I remember--somewhat boutique-ish with some favorite names such as "Cakebread" and "Sin Zin." Big on California. About 10 wines from France, Spain, and Italy, yet the Italians are all heavy-hitters (two Brunello di Montalcino labels, a Barbaresco, and Ornellaia...someone here likes their Italian wines). Some decent "New Worlds." Nothing too amazing. Fairly priced. We split a bottle of the Paso Robles' Clos Mimi Petite Rousse Syrah--soft, perfumey, lots of fruit including sweet cherries and red currant with a hint of spice; more than anything I knew it would be something my friend would enjoy as it is not one of those punch-you-in-the-face loud, stinky reds that I typically like.

At Forté the menu might scream casual Americana, but the ambiance and service does not. Our server was extremely polite and knowledgable, offering his help in making wine selections and even offering to run outside and put change in my car so I wouldn't have to...though I'd never dream of actually allowing him to do this (Can you imagine!?! "Sure, it's down the street on the right, here's a quarter."), it was still a show of stellar service that he even offered. He commended particular selections (including my Eggs Rosini), and was incredibly patient when my friend wavered aloud over particular options and even offered his input. He was speedy and attentive and exhibited all the proper decorum; a stellar presence of absolute professionalism in this restaurant. Service truly can make or break a meal.


The décor is a bit...stuffy. It's very pretty and very trendy--perhaps too pretty and trendy for the direction the food has taken. The dark colors and heavy drapes which line the dining room are a bit too much for an establishment that should be a little more light and fun, open and airy. I do like the neon blue-illuminated wine cellar as well as the blue-and-gold mosaic tiles in the bar area, but after so many years of the same-old, Forté could use a facelift to go with the new face in the kitchen. And perhaps that is the plan with the coming renovations, which should now be underway.


In the before time, the crowd at Forté could be a little Birmingham-y--old rich folks in the early evening followed by pampered young trustfunders at night. When I was there on a Friday the crowd was a little more laid-back with people just drinking and laughing in the bar (instead of pursing their lips and looking to see who's looking at them) and only a handful of other guests in the dining room after 9:00. The lunch crowd should be a good draw as their lunch menu is ideal (French Onion Soup and Mile-High Pastrami, anyone?). I'm excited to see these changes that Forté is going through and I think they will best suit the restaurant in the future. The times they are a'changin' and for a place like this to stay successful, it must cater to more traditional tastes (i.e., comfort food at comfortable prices). I commend Yamauchi's plucky audaciousness in creating a decidedly non-trendy menu in a historically trendy place, and for being so bold as to shirk fine dining conventions and just call a snail a snail.

Looking forward to seeing what else you do, Don.