The Valentine Distillery will be releasing their new Liberator Gin in just a few weeks and will also be releasing a whiskey in early 2013. The name "Liberator" is in keeping with the the company's all-Michigan, vintage branding: the Liberator B-24 bomber was made at the Willow Run plant in Ypsilanti during WWII, and owner Rifino Valentine even has an old Liberator propeller that will soon be going up in the tasting room to celebrate the new launch. The gin and whiskey are currently available in the tasting room only and join the label's signature vodka, which was recently awarded 94 points by Anthony Dias Blue, editor-in-chief of The Tasting Panel magazine (in addition to all the other awards it has racked up in the last three years), as well as the newer White Blossom elderflower vodka.
Pete's Place in Ferndale served its last dinners on Sunday evening. News media hasn't been able to shed any light on the reasons why, instead simply rehashing the announcement made on the website and Facebook page. At this time the reasons for the closure have not been made public, nor is it known if owner Pete has any plans on opening another restaurant in the future.
Pretty soon, we're all going to be hanging out at the hospital for dinner. The Root Restaurant is currently finalizing a deal with Henry Ford Hospital to serve their Michigan grass-fed burger and all house-made accoutrements in the cafeteria at the West Bloomfield location. The Root will be joining the ranks of Pizzeria Biga and Avalon International Breads, who both have satellite outlets within the Henry Ford Health System (Biga is also in West Bloomfield; Avalon is in Detroit). For several years now Henry Ford has been working hard to transform their food culture and bring healthier food to health care not just for patients but for all staff and visitors. They are aiming to be a leader in promoting local food systems (particularly at the West Bloomfield location, which recently hired a resident farmer, the well-respected Michelle Lutz, to grow organic produce in its greenhouse).
In major media news, powerhouse editor Rebecca Powers has left Hour Detroit after 14 years. She has not shared her reasons for leaving or her future plans with media members or former staff. The speculation happening in my head is running RAMPANT. Also, Rebecca, should you happen to read this, take me with you! Stay in touch! Good luck! You are amazing! I'm not worthy!
Showing posts with label West Bloomfield. Show all posts
Showing posts with label West Bloomfield. Show all posts
Tuesday, November 27, 2012
Wednesday, March 7, 2012
[HOT LIST] Sushi
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| Ahi Tuna Roll at Izakaya Sanpei, Canton. All covert phone photography by Nicole Rupersburg. |
Full disclosure: I pretty much think sushi is the most boring of all the fashionable foods and I am quite frankly relieved that it seems as if the sushi craze is finally slowing down and stepping aside for good old American MEAT. For two reasons: (a) I'm not that much of a seafood fan in the first place (except for scallops, mmmmmm num num num scallops); and (b) the base components of any sushi dish - the stripped-down bare basics of sushi that would constitute as being authentically authentic in American minds - are pretty freaking boring. Raw fish + sticky rice + seaweed wrap. Meh. I understand (and agree) that it is better when fresh. So, okay, FRESH raw fish + sticky rice + seaweed wrap. Meh. Oh and then don't forget to drown it all in liquid sodium chloride - Americans heart salt.
So this is not about boring "authentic" sushi. (And please be reminded that if you use the word authentic I will punch you in your face.) Look, this is 'Merica. Sushi here is going to be 'Merican. Even sushi joints that have for-really-real Japanese sushi chefs shouting at people from behind the sushi bar are still going to cater to 'Merican palates, out of necessity. I like rolls to have some flayva. I say give me eel sauce and avocado; give me crispy tempura-battered shrimp and asparagus and splash it all with sriracha; slather that shit in cream cheese and bake it ... just don't put any mayonnaise on it because mayonnaise is disgusting, FACT.
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| Mexican Roll at Kabuki Sushi, Dearborn. |
This sushi list is all about freshness, affordability and creativity. Places like Crave, Sakana and Inyo have outstandingly creative (and usually quite tasty) sushi but they are a far cry from affordable. Little Tree is affordable-ish but that shit is nasty. With thanks to my like-minded artist friend Angel Busque, who craves sushi the way I crave cheese, who helped me round out a list of fresh and affordable sushi joints. She says,
All I care about at the moment is freshness and being gentle on the wallet. That's the main thing really... Forget the people who are going to scrutinize those on authenticity, if they catch me ordering a roll with spicy mayo on my rare days, or if I'm not eating nigiri with my hands and dipping it fish side down, and putting too much soy sauce and wasabi ... What I care about is the food's freshness, the portions being good and filling; I want a place where I won't feel self-conscious about what I order, and if I'm willing to try new things that the staff and chefs are hospitable and eager to share their art. Those are what makes a sushi place a hot spot for me.Amen sister-girl.
I think I said it best when I said, "...at Ronin [sushi purists] might find [themselves] singing a different tune, one that embraces this NOT bastardized but modernized breed of distinctly American sushi (a song that may resemble the sonic warbles of Morrisey, but I get ahead of myself). One taste of sushi chef Kaku Usui’s contemporary creations will make you a nu-sushi songbird in no time." They make spicy tuna tacos, BLT rolls and ahi tuna pizza. At Ronin there's no shame in westernizing the flavors so long as it is done with craft; of all the trendy sushi "lounges" all over metro Detroit, there are none other like Ronin. (Pictured to the left: Ronin's Valentine's Day special, a snow crab roll in pink soy paper with cilantro + cucumber, topped with strawberries and served with ponzu sauce for dipping.)
#2 Sala Thai (Eastern Market)
My Official Sushi Consult Angel Busque says "the sushi at the Sala Thai is AMAZING. Had my eyes rolling to the back of my head. Close proximity to Eastern Market. It's got to be the reason why? Yes?" Hell, I'll buy it. You know what else I'll buy? The Rock and Roll - eel + avocado. Yes and yes. Or the Bagel Roll - cream cheese, smoked salmon, scallions and avocado. America: FUCK YEAH.
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| Kiss of Fire Roll at O Sushi, Dearborn |
Hey, I like it. My Korean friend likes it too and that's official enough for me. (All facetious ignorant American joking aside, this place is owned by a Korean family so there are a lot of very good Korean items on the menu as well, like kimchi and bibimbap.) They have what is probably a disproportionate number of spicy rolls on the menu, which may in all seriousness be a cultural thing (Korean food tends to be spicy). Yipee for me! Order the Kiss of Fire Roll: tempura shrimp, spicy tuna, avocado and jalapeño pepper covered with crunchy tempura flakes and hot sauce on top. This would more accurately be called the "Ring of Fire Roll" IFYOUKNOWWHATI'MSAYIN.
#4 Kabuki Sushi (Dearborn, Farmington Hills, Canton)
The sushi is notoriously good, the service notoriously bad. Thankfully for them, this is not a Service Hot List. They make ROUSes: Rolls of Unusual Size. Their "Giant Rolls" include an American Dream Roll and Rainbow Roll; 8 pieces under $10. They also have some funky rolls, like the Mexican Roll with tempura shrimp, avocado and hot sauce. Hot sauce should be on all sushi. Skip the soy and replace it all with hot sauce. *OR* ... sriracha!
#5 Crazy Sushi (Madison Heights)
From Angel: "Now this place is not written much about. It's in Madison Heights on 12 Mile between John R. and Dequindre. It's just one guy behind the sushi counter. I've never been let down and the prices are actually cheaper than Noble Fish. I think it's better than Noble Fish. (I do love Noble Fish like everyone else though, but you are ABSOLUTELY right, totally overrated. [Editor's note: yes, I said Noble Fish is overrated.]) There are only two small tables, a small counter space, and the sushi bar to sit at.) It's tiny, cheap, and the fish is fresh. 'Nuff said.#5 Crazy Sushi (Madison Heights)
Honorable mention: Grab and Go Sushi (Ferndale)
Sushi Chef Josh Taylor, who previously worked as the sushi chef at Oslo (a moment of silence, please) and Tom's Oyster Bar, was recently in a car accident and is currently recovering. He assures me that he is recovering well, but Grab and Go will be closed until further notice. Next to Kaku at Ronin, Josh cranks out some of the most inventive sushi I've seen. While at Oslo he created a Tandoori Roll, a baked roll made with cream cheese, salmon, crispy tempura flakes and sweet curry sauce. I wrote in Real Detroit Weekly that, "It's almost as rich as a dessert with a delicately sweet curry scent." Grab and Go was scheduled to be this week's exclusive feature; I will not be substituting somewhere else in its place and will hold off until Josh is all healed and back at work.
Bubbling under Izakaya Sanpei Restaurant (Canton), Shiro Restaurant (Novi), Noble Fish (Clawson), WOW Sushi (Troy), Sushi House (Farmington), Ajishin (Novi), Edamame Sushi (Madison Heights), Cherry Blossom (Novi), Sharaku (West Bloomfield), Sushi Ko (Farmington Hills)
Thursday, October 15, 2009
No Soup For You, Two Hours! Rude Food on Metromode
Long gone are the days of uppity French restaurants that treat their customers as if they should feel privileged for being permitted the honor of eating. As the worldwide hospitality industry has come to understand that the surest way to success is through quality customer service, pompous behavior has mostly become widely unacceptable. Even in the City of Light, the snooty shtick has almost disappeared entirely. Restaurants that have a reputation for rudeness are often more popular for their patented ostentatiousness than for their food; those with delicacies worth social indignity are increasingly rare.
We've all had experiences at popular restaurants that have left a bad taste in our mouths, and for some we wave those experiences like badges of honor, a show of just how dedicated we are to good food.
"I once waited almost three hours for a table at Slows," a friend told me while we were discussing our favorite Detroit diners.
When I squawked at her proud admission and asked, "But WHY?!?", she gushed, "Because it's sooooooo good."
Read the rest of this article, written by yours truly, on metro Detroit's rude food here.
We've all had experiences at popular restaurants that have left a bad taste in our mouths, and for some we wave those experiences like badges of honor, a show of just how dedicated we are to good food.
"I once waited almost three hours for a table at Slows," a friend told me while we were discussing our favorite Detroit diners.
When I squawked at her proud admission and asked, "But WHY?!?", she gushed, "Because it's sooooooo good."
Read the rest of this article, written by yours truly, on metro Detroit's rude food here.
Thursday, October 9, 2008
Diamonds: Not Just for Girls Anymore
Originally published in D-Tales here.
Did you know we have no fewer than seven AAA-rated four-diamond restaurants in the area?
Of course you didn't. Well, we do. I've noted previously that Iridescence is Detroit's only four-diamond restaurant, but there are six more in the immediate metro area which also deserve some attention.
Every year the American Automotive Association grants the prestigious Four-Diamond Award to America's leading restaurants, an honor only about 3% of AAA's 60,000 rated restaurants receive.
So what other restaurants here make the cut?
The Grill. Because a rose by any other name would surely smell as sweet. The simply-named Grill at the Ritz Carlton in Dearborn needs no further finesse of naming convention to be one of the top restaurants in the country. I mean...it's the Ritz Carlton, fer chrissakes. I've visited the Grill a couple of times--once for a dinner that I don't quite remember but I do know was (a) amazing and (b) expensive, and another time for the most decadent Sunday brunch I've seen in Michigan. It doesn't need a lot of bells and whistles. It's the Grill. In the Ritz Carlton. That's all you need to know.
Il Posto Ristorante. Authentic right down to the waiters' B.O. Il Posto in Southfield is hands-down the most authentic, old-world Italian restaurant, cut from the classic mold of customer service as the highest priority and taking great pride in the art of dining. Much like being in a family-owned world-renowned restaurant in Tuscany (Osteria di Rendola in the hills of Chianti is my closest comparison), the greatest emphasis is placed on quality of ingredients, creativity and expert preparation of dishes, presentation, and service. One table will typically see nine or so servers bustling about, refolding your napkin, wiping crumbs off your table, filling your water, and generally just making sure you are absolutely satisfied with every element of your dining experience. Oh, and did I mention the food is equally as amazing? Sorry to let my snobbery show through here, but if you've never been to Italy, you've never experienced anything quite like this. If you even try to make comparisions to the Bravo! Cucina Italiana or Johnny Carino's, I will punch you in the face.
Iridescence. Just go already, would you? From ambiance to presentation to the artful adventureousness of the menu, Iridescence beats all. I fell in love with it back when the restaurant was located in the bowels of the casino, past all the janky junk food joints and casino cafeterias. Now that they're located on the top of the Motor City Casino Hotel tower with a breathtaking view of the city and with some of the most impressive and daring interiors you're likely to see (the architectural lighting is better than most nightclubs), Iridescence makes other dining experiences pale in comparison. Literally and figuratively.
The Lark (West Bloomfield). You know...not as impressive as you think it would be. Yes, it nails the whole French-countryside standard of service and food preparations, and yes, their Rack of Lamb Genghis Khan is infamous and is served with its own number charting how many have been served since they started the numbering (over 70,000), and yes, their wine list is indeed The Wine Bible, and yesssss, the service is expertly attentive, the service carts are cute, and the extremely limited seating guarantees much personal attention and an always-full house, but...the food? I mean, for all the buzz? Meh.
Ristorante Cafe Cortina. All that time I lived in West Bloomfield, regularly driving through Farmington Hills, and I barely took notice of this place, much less thought to myself, "I should go there sometime." Apparently they're known for their fresh pastas, so much so that they were highlighted on the Food Network in 2006 as one of the best pasta places in the States. I want to punch myself in the face for having missed it all this time.
Rugby Grille. Another understated name for another top-tier restaurant located inside a world-class hotel recognized for its excellence in service and high standards of luxury and European excellence--the Townsend Hotel in Birmingham. I sadly admit that this is another restaurant I've not been to...it's at times like this I miss my fuckass ex who, despite being a fuckass, knew how to dine well and always took me out to such places. Now with my limited personal means (I got my punch in the face from the struggling economy last year and have been barely treading water since) and lack of boyfriend my exposure to such things has been severely limited, save for the generosity of my gay friends who will occasionally take me out to such nice places...but then find boyfriends and go with them instead. *Sigh* Me wanna go here...it's so pretty and old-world-y and snobby and fabulous...probably not as pretty and old-world-y and snobby and fabulous as the Russian Tea Room, which is the pinnacle of pretty old-world-y snobby fabulousness, but the best we're going to get here in Michigan.
Tribute Restaurant. I know I've spoke of it in passing before. But since I have not actually been there since I launched this blog, there have been no dedicated gushy foodie posts for Tribute Restaurant in Farmington Hills. But this...this is my favorite dining establishment in the world. It's now changed executive chef hands a third time since they opened and I haven't been there since, but I doubt the essence of its personalized service, chic atmosphere, and experimental avant-garde menu items (not to mention a quite welcoming, knowledgable, and friendly staff--espeically if you stick around after-hours and drink with them) have changed much. It used to be a yearly tradition--every year my birthday would mean a decadent dinner at Tribute, which would always end with the Egg: most orgasmic explosion of flavors you'll ever experience. Words cannot begin to describe it. It is the dessert of the gods. Chocolate creme brulée, salted caramel...I...I just can't describe it. It's incredible. A typical meal there will see me gorging on foie gras, Kobe beef, a generous plateau de fromage full of imported creamy French and tangy Italian cheeses, some kind of wild game meat, and a chocolate souffle. Ah, I miss this place. I miss Kevin and Antoinne. Damnit, now I'm depressed. I'll punch you all in the face. Now open for lunch.
Well. Now that I'm awash in memories of a very, very different time in my life, I'll bid you all adieu and happy dining while I go find a corner to wallow in my many financial and romantic failures, thanks.
In the face.
Did you know we have no fewer than seven AAA-rated four-diamond restaurants in the area?
Of course you didn't. Well, we do. I've noted previously that Iridescence is Detroit's only four-diamond restaurant, but there are six more in the immediate metro area which also deserve some attention.
Every year the American Automotive Association grants the prestigious Four-Diamond Award to America's leading restaurants, an honor only about 3% of AAA's 60,000 rated restaurants receive.
So what other restaurants here make the cut?
The Grill. Because a rose by any other name would surely smell as sweet. The simply-named Grill at the Ritz Carlton in Dearborn needs no further finesse of naming convention to be one of the top restaurants in the country. I mean...it's the Ritz Carlton, fer chrissakes. I've visited the Grill a couple of times--once for a dinner that I don't quite remember but I do know was (a) amazing and (b) expensive, and another time for the most decadent Sunday brunch I've seen in Michigan. It doesn't need a lot of bells and whistles. It's the Grill. In the Ritz Carlton. That's all you need to know.
Il Posto Ristorante. Authentic right down to the waiters' B.O. Il Posto in Southfield is hands-down the most authentic, old-world Italian restaurant, cut from the classic mold of customer service as the highest priority and taking great pride in the art of dining. Much like being in a family-owned world-renowned restaurant in Tuscany (Osteria di Rendola in the hills of Chianti is my closest comparison), the greatest emphasis is placed on quality of ingredients, creativity and expert preparation of dishes, presentation, and service. One table will typically see nine or so servers bustling about, refolding your napkin, wiping crumbs off your table, filling your water, and generally just making sure you are absolutely satisfied with every element of your dining experience. Oh, and did I mention the food is equally as amazing? Sorry to let my snobbery show through here, but if you've never been to Italy, you've never experienced anything quite like this. If you even try to make comparisions to the Bravo! Cucina Italiana or Johnny Carino's, I will punch you in the face.
Iridescence. Just go already, would you? From ambiance to presentation to the artful adventureousness of the menu, Iridescence beats all. I fell in love with it back when the restaurant was located in the bowels of the casino, past all the janky junk food joints and casino cafeterias. Now that they're located on the top of the Motor City Casino Hotel tower with a breathtaking view of the city and with some of the most impressive and daring interiors you're likely to see (the architectural lighting is better than most nightclubs), Iridescence makes other dining experiences pale in comparison. Literally and figuratively.
The Lark (West Bloomfield). You know...not as impressive as you think it would be. Yes, it nails the whole French-countryside standard of service and food preparations, and yes, their Rack of Lamb Genghis Khan is infamous and is served with its own number charting how many have been served since they started the numbering (over 70,000), and yes, their wine list is indeed The Wine Bible, and yesssss, the service is expertly attentive, the service carts are cute, and the extremely limited seating guarantees much personal attention and an always-full house, but...the food? I mean, for all the buzz? Meh.
Ristorante Cafe Cortina. All that time I lived in West Bloomfield, regularly driving through Farmington Hills, and I barely took notice of this place, much less thought to myself, "I should go there sometime." Apparently they're known for their fresh pastas, so much so that they were highlighted on the Food Network in 2006 as one of the best pasta places in the States. I want to punch myself in the face for having missed it all this time.
Rugby Grille. Another understated name for another top-tier restaurant located inside a world-class hotel recognized for its excellence in service and high standards of luxury and European excellence--the Townsend Hotel in Birmingham. I sadly admit that this is another restaurant I've not been to...it's at times like this I miss my fuckass ex who, despite being a fuckass, knew how to dine well and always took me out to such places. Now with my limited personal means (I got my punch in the face from the struggling economy last year and have been barely treading water since) and lack of boyfriend my exposure to such things has been severely limited, save for the generosity of my gay friends who will occasionally take me out to such nice places...but then find boyfriends and go with them instead. *Sigh* Me wanna go here...it's so pretty and old-world-y and snobby and fabulous...probably not as pretty and old-world-y and snobby and fabulous as the Russian Tea Room, which is the pinnacle of pretty old-world-y snobby fabulousness, but the best we're going to get here in Michigan.
Tribute Restaurant. I know I've spoke of it in passing before. But since I have not actually been there since I launched this blog, there have been no dedicated gushy foodie posts for Tribute Restaurant in Farmington Hills. But this...this is my favorite dining establishment in the world. It's now changed executive chef hands a third time since they opened and I haven't been there since, but I doubt the essence of its personalized service, chic atmosphere, and experimental avant-garde menu items (not to mention a quite welcoming, knowledgable, and friendly staff--espeically if you stick around after-hours and drink with them) have changed much. It used to be a yearly tradition--every year my birthday would mean a decadent dinner at Tribute, which would always end with the Egg: most orgasmic explosion of flavors you'll ever experience. Words cannot begin to describe it. It is the dessert of the gods. Chocolate creme brulée, salted caramel...I...I just can't describe it. It's incredible. A typical meal there will see me gorging on foie gras, Kobe beef, a generous plateau de fromage full of imported creamy French and tangy Italian cheeses, some kind of wild game meat, and a chocolate souffle. Ah, I miss this place. I miss Kevin and Antoinne. Damnit, now I'm depressed. I'll punch you all in the face. Now open for lunch.
Well. Now that I'm awash in memories of a very, very different time in my life, I'll bid you all adieu and happy dining while I go find a corner to wallow in my many financial and romantic failures, thanks.
In the face.
Monday, August 13, 2007
The Lark: The Menu, The Myth
Okay. So you’ve heard of The Lark in West Bloomfield, right? (Well, if not, you have absolutely no business reading this review because you clearly have no concept of Detroit-area fine dining, and probably not even fine dining in general.)
That being established, we’ve all heard of The Lark in West Bloomfield. We’re familiar with the endless bevy of awards, honors, and recognitions it has received, both locally and nationally. We are aware that by and large it is considered by most critics and connoisseurs to be one of the top ten restaurants in the country. We all know this.
Hour Detroit’s 2007 Restaurant of the Year winner The Lark is an experience to be had, no doubt. The problem is, it is preceded by its reputation—and, as is so often the case in these kinds of situations, it has a difficult time standing up to its own myth.
Not ALL of this attention is overhyped or undeserved. The Lark does have a wine list that is outright jaw-dropping by any standards. Bound in leather and at least 4 inches thick, the wine list is indeed impressive. Heavily detailed and often daunting, this is the kind of wine list that one can sample both horizontal and vertical flights from dozens of different producers and dozens of different vintages, with pricing that is at some points expectantly overpriced, and others surprisingly underpriced. Was Jim Lark, owner (along with his wife Mary), the Maitre Sommelier Vins de France and the mastermind behind the masterpiece, getting careless, or is it simply a matter of him having purchased a number of cases at a discounted price which are now collecting dust in the extensive cellar? Unfortunately, they’re not sharing that information, but I will recommend you skip over the hundreds of French selections and head straight for our Spanish friends, which seem to have the most conservative pricing (and which would presumably not be a big seller in a French country inn-style restaurant where the clientele mostly believes that the bigger the price tag, the better the wine, and if it isn’t French it isn’t expensive enough).
Okay, so I will offer absolutely no argument whatsoever as to the superiority of The Lark’s wine list. But as for everything else? One would be tempted to believe that in a restaurant that has received such critical adornment, that everything would be nothing short of outstanding. Correct? Well, such is not the case at The Lark. While everything is certainly quite good, none of it is truly great.
First of all, they offer no valet service at the door. Which I’m okay with, as I would have refused the service anyway in lieu of having to tip a valet attendant with the absolutely no cash that I had, but still…what kind of high-end dining establishment doesn’t offer valet? That just seems so…uncouth.
The restaurant is in a converted old home, which makes the dining area rather small and lends to the air of exclusivity that surrounds the place (due to limited spacing and the absence of the “turn and burn” mentality that lower-end restaurants exercise, wannabe-diners often have to make reservations upwards of weeks in advance). The size and the limited capacity is, on the one hand, refreshing—patrons are always very well attended by the staff, and do not have to deal with an overcrowded atmosphere with a constant background din as they try to enjoy their dining experience. This is nice, absolutely. However, if the dining area were twice the size it would still be manageably small, but The Lark would almost entirely lose its air of exclusivity as a table would no longer be quite so difficult to procure—which is yet another myth of The Lark I’ve regrettably debunked.
The menu is prix fixe , with a handful of a la carte additional appetizer options (namely oysters and caviar). You will begin with a carte blanche selection of cold appetizers from the hors d’oeuvres trolley. This trolley service is something you certainly don’t see frequently in other restaurants (or the standard prix fixe menu, for that matter). And while it is certainly a nice touch, adding to the French country inn charm, it is a bit off-putting when your selections are slopped together on a small appetizer plate. As for the hors d’oeuvres themselves…well, suffice it to say I was not bowled over. Some standard pasta salads, a cold curried duck (which was good, but not great), and jumbo shrimp cocktail comprised the selections. And all I could picture is the meat counter at most delis where they have the various pre-made salads and dips. That’s probably not what a highly acclaimed French country inn wants their patrons to be comparing their food to. That’s just my guess, anyway.
The second course is your choice of soup, salad, or hot appetizer. I chose Le Salade a la Provençcale, which featured heirloom tomatoes, summer greens, grilled asparagus and Fourme d’Ambret cheese with a fig vinaigrette. Honestly, this salad was probably my favorite part of the meal, with the different elements being perfectly proportioned and the flavors perfectly balanced. The scallops with the acidic yellow tomato reduction were the hot appetizer selection for the day, and these were also good. But not great. And frankly, scallops are almost always consistently good, wherever one might have them—the little buggers are pretty difficult to do wrong by. And while I’ve had endless experiences with good scallops, I’ve had few truly phenomenal experiences—black-trumpeter-encrusted day boat sea scallops from Northern Lakes; sea scallops bathed in truffle oil at Bacco—and at this particular establishment, I would have thought this would have been another memorable experience to add to the short list. It was not.
Following the second course, once again in very traditional French service style, a palate cleanser, a granita (Italian ice) flavored with cassis, was served. And again, the palate cleanser course is one that is not often found in most dining establishments (even the finer ones), so the nod towards French tradition is certainly appreciated here.
For the main entrée, I sampled the Veal Medallions with King Crab and Roasted Herb Gnocchi with Red Currant & Cassis Sauces. This was good. Very good. But not great. The tart yet sweet red currant and cassis sauces worked very well with the veal, though the gnocchi seemed a bit out of place here. But it was still very good. Just not great. However, the Rack of Lamb Genghis Khan, served with Dauphinois Potatoes and Glazed Carrots, was admittedly phenomenal. The Lark’s Rack of Lamb Genghis Khan is legendary, and they have been serving them numbered for about 20 years now. Ours was #63604, according to the kitschy recipe card given as a gift after ordering it. If this dish is The Lark’s claim to fame, then it is worthy of that title, and is almost worthy of justifying their great epicurean myth. Almost.
Up to this point, I found myself not quite yet disappointed but very much unimpressed by the offerings. Certainly by comparison The Lark is still one of the better restaurants in the Metro Detroit area, and the food they serve is certainly quite good. Newly appointed Chef de Cuisine John Somerville has certainly concocted a creative menu which utilizes a number of different, fresh area ingredients and introduces influences from various different cultural cuisines, all prepared with traditional French cooking techniques. But given all the accolades and general build-up, I found that The Lark failed to meet such high expectations.
The savior could have been the dessert cart. It was not.
The dessert tray offers a carte blanche selection of fresh fruits (including the somewhat rare red currant), tortes and cakes and pies and truffles. Sweets for the sweet, to be sure, but not exactly my cup of tea. Or, to be more specific, my plate of cheese, as I would have it. There was nothing particularly outstanding about the tortes and cakes and pies. The house-made dark chocolate truffles were quite good, but nothing one would not be able to find at a fine chocolatier. Shocked at the absence of any assiette de fromage at a European country inn, I felt compelled to ask the maitre’d about it. Apparently they previously offered a selection of fine artisanal cheeses, but were forced to dispose of such great quantities of expensive fromage due to infrequent orders that they decided to part with the concept of the cheese plate. This is criminal. Criminal, I tell you. I find this incredibly unfortunate (probably moreso than most people would), and a poor decision on their part (it would seem a number of other area restaurants have worked out this problem just fine). Some candies were our parting gifts, and despite all the sweets, I was soured on the experience.
The service was certainly top-notch, and worthy of the southern European country traditions Jim and Mary Lark have modeled their establishment after. Extremely attentive (though, by European 5-star service standards, perhaps a bit too casual and conversational), with a number of different staff members constantly in attendance around the table to cater to every special request and sullied plate, we certainly were never in want of an unattended need or unanswered question. And with the prix fixe menu, diners may request additional portions of any entrée (except the Rack of Lamb and Soft Shell Crab) provided it is timely and practical—an added element in client-focused service that certainly makes The Lark unique. The décor screams old-world European country, with a great deal of oak furniture and floral-patterned wallpaper and upholstery. A wall of windows open up to the extensive gardens, which are maintained by Mary Lark with daughter Adrian and are really quite beautiful to gaze out at. Overall, the dining experience is a good one, but not a great one. And with this kind of notoriety, it should be great. And so the myth of The Lark is debunked.
The Lark. 6430 Farmington Rd., West Bloomfield. 248.661.4466. http://www.thelark.com/
Prices: Prix Fixe Menu $65.00-$79.00. Dessert tray $9.50 per person.
Hours: Tuesday-Sunday, dinner only.
That being established, we’ve all heard of The Lark in West Bloomfield. We’re familiar with the endless bevy of awards, honors, and recognitions it has received, both locally and nationally. We are aware that by and large it is considered by most critics and connoisseurs to be one of the top ten restaurants in the country. We all know this.
Hour Detroit’s 2007 Restaurant of the Year winner The Lark is an experience to be had, no doubt. The problem is, it is preceded by its reputation—and, as is so often the case in these kinds of situations, it has a difficult time standing up to its own myth.
Not ALL of this attention is overhyped or undeserved. The Lark does have a wine list that is outright jaw-dropping by any standards. Bound in leather and at least 4 inches thick, the wine list is indeed impressive. Heavily detailed and often daunting, this is the kind of wine list that one can sample both horizontal and vertical flights from dozens of different producers and dozens of different vintages, with pricing that is at some points expectantly overpriced, and others surprisingly underpriced. Was Jim Lark, owner (along with his wife Mary), the Maitre Sommelier Vins de France and the mastermind behind the masterpiece, getting careless, or is it simply a matter of him having purchased a number of cases at a discounted price which are now collecting dust in the extensive cellar? Unfortunately, they’re not sharing that information, but I will recommend you skip over the hundreds of French selections and head straight for our Spanish friends, which seem to have the most conservative pricing (and which would presumably not be a big seller in a French country inn-style restaurant where the clientele mostly believes that the bigger the price tag, the better the wine, and if it isn’t French it isn’t expensive enough).
Okay, so I will offer absolutely no argument whatsoever as to the superiority of The Lark’s wine list. But as for everything else? One would be tempted to believe that in a restaurant that has received such critical adornment, that everything would be nothing short of outstanding. Correct? Well, such is not the case at The Lark. While everything is certainly quite good, none of it is truly great.
First of all, they offer no valet service at the door. Which I’m okay with, as I would have refused the service anyway in lieu of having to tip a valet attendant with the absolutely no cash that I had, but still…what kind of high-end dining establishment doesn’t offer valet? That just seems so…uncouth.
The restaurant is in a converted old home, which makes the dining area rather small and lends to the air of exclusivity that surrounds the place (due to limited spacing and the absence of the “turn and burn” mentality that lower-end restaurants exercise, wannabe-diners often have to make reservations upwards of weeks in advance). The size and the limited capacity is, on the one hand, refreshing—patrons are always very well attended by the staff, and do not have to deal with an overcrowded atmosphere with a constant background din as they try to enjoy their dining experience. This is nice, absolutely. However, if the dining area were twice the size it would still be manageably small, but The Lark would almost entirely lose its air of exclusivity as a table would no longer be quite so difficult to procure—which is yet another myth of The Lark I’ve regrettably debunked.
The menu is prix fixe , with a handful of a la carte additional appetizer options (namely oysters and caviar). You will begin with a carte blanche selection of cold appetizers from the hors d’oeuvres trolley. This trolley service is something you certainly don’t see frequently in other restaurants (or the standard prix fixe menu, for that matter). And while it is certainly a nice touch, adding to the French country inn charm, it is a bit off-putting when your selections are slopped together on a small appetizer plate. As for the hors d’oeuvres themselves…well, suffice it to say I was not bowled over. Some standard pasta salads, a cold curried duck (which was good, but not great), and jumbo shrimp cocktail comprised the selections. And all I could picture is the meat counter at most delis where they have the various pre-made salads and dips. That’s probably not what a highly acclaimed French country inn wants their patrons to be comparing their food to. That’s just my guess, anyway.
The second course is your choice of soup, salad, or hot appetizer. I chose Le Salade a la Provençcale, which featured heirloom tomatoes, summer greens, grilled asparagus and Fourme d’Ambret cheese with a fig vinaigrette. Honestly, this salad was probably my favorite part of the meal, with the different elements being perfectly proportioned and the flavors perfectly balanced. The scallops with the acidic yellow tomato reduction were the hot appetizer selection for the day, and these were also good. But not great. And frankly, scallops are almost always consistently good, wherever one might have them—the little buggers are pretty difficult to do wrong by. And while I’ve had endless experiences with good scallops, I’ve had few truly phenomenal experiences—black-trumpeter-encrusted day boat sea scallops from Northern Lakes; sea scallops bathed in truffle oil at Bacco—and at this particular establishment, I would have thought this would have been another memorable experience to add to the short list. It was not.
Following the second course, once again in very traditional French service style, a palate cleanser, a granita (Italian ice) flavored with cassis, was served. And again, the palate cleanser course is one that is not often found in most dining establishments (even the finer ones), so the nod towards French tradition is certainly appreciated here.
For the main entrée, I sampled the Veal Medallions with King Crab and Roasted Herb Gnocchi with Red Currant & Cassis Sauces. This was good. Very good. But not great. The tart yet sweet red currant and cassis sauces worked very well with the veal, though the gnocchi seemed a bit out of place here. But it was still very good. Just not great. However, the Rack of Lamb Genghis Khan, served with Dauphinois Potatoes and Glazed Carrots, was admittedly phenomenal. The Lark’s Rack of Lamb Genghis Khan is legendary, and they have been serving them numbered for about 20 years now. Ours was #63604, according to the kitschy recipe card given as a gift after ordering it. If this dish is The Lark’s claim to fame, then it is worthy of that title, and is almost worthy of justifying their great epicurean myth. Almost.
Up to this point, I found myself not quite yet disappointed but very much unimpressed by the offerings. Certainly by comparison The Lark is still one of the better restaurants in the Metro Detroit area, and the food they serve is certainly quite good. Newly appointed Chef de Cuisine John Somerville has certainly concocted a creative menu which utilizes a number of different, fresh area ingredients and introduces influences from various different cultural cuisines, all prepared with traditional French cooking techniques. But given all the accolades and general build-up, I found that The Lark failed to meet such high expectations.
The savior could have been the dessert cart. It was not.
The dessert tray offers a carte blanche selection of fresh fruits (including the somewhat rare red currant), tortes and cakes and pies and truffles. Sweets for the sweet, to be sure, but not exactly my cup of tea. Or, to be more specific, my plate of cheese, as I would have it. There was nothing particularly outstanding about the tortes and cakes and pies. The house-made dark chocolate truffles were quite good, but nothing one would not be able to find at a fine chocolatier. Shocked at the absence of any assiette de fromage at a European country inn, I felt compelled to ask the maitre’d about it. Apparently they previously offered a selection of fine artisanal cheeses, but were forced to dispose of such great quantities of expensive fromage due to infrequent orders that they decided to part with the concept of the cheese plate. This is criminal. Criminal, I tell you. I find this incredibly unfortunate (probably moreso than most people would), and a poor decision on their part (it would seem a number of other area restaurants have worked out this problem just fine). Some candies were our parting gifts, and despite all the sweets, I was soured on the experience.
The service was certainly top-notch, and worthy of the southern European country traditions Jim and Mary Lark have modeled their establishment after. Extremely attentive (though, by European 5-star service standards, perhaps a bit too casual and conversational), with a number of different staff members constantly in attendance around the table to cater to every special request and sullied plate, we certainly were never in want of an unattended need or unanswered question. And with the prix fixe menu, diners may request additional portions of any entrée (except the Rack of Lamb and Soft Shell Crab) provided it is timely and practical—an added element in client-focused service that certainly makes The Lark unique. The décor screams old-world European country, with a great deal of oak furniture and floral-patterned wallpaper and upholstery. A wall of windows open up to the extensive gardens, which are maintained by Mary Lark with daughter Adrian and are really quite beautiful to gaze out at. Overall, the dining experience is a good one, but not a great one. And with this kind of notoriety, it should be great. And so the myth of The Lark is debunked.
The Lark. 6430 Farmington Rd., West Bloomfield. 248.661.4466. http://www.thelark.com/
Prices: Prix Fixe Menu $65.00-$79.00. Dessert tray $9.50 per person.
Hours: Tuesday-Sunday, dinner only.
Sunday, May 20, 2007
Zinc: A Jew, a Chaldean, and a Debutante Walk Into a Bar
Zinc is a fabulous place with a fabulous atmosphere that serves fabulous food to fabulous people.
Or at least that's what they want you to think, and for the most part they pull it off.
One thing that cannot be ignored when in Zinc is the clientele--pulling into the parking lot, you find yourself surrounded by brand-new shiny Escalades, H3's, Benzes, Corvettes, and usually one or two exotics (there is a Ferrari dealership right down the road, after all).
Welcome to West Bloomfield, where people have a WHOLE lot of money and they want EVERYONE to know it. The problem is, prior to the introduction of Zinc a little over 3 years ago, they didn't have any taste.
(A very prevalent after-effect of "new money" mentality--and if there is any doubt in your puerile perception that there is indeed a difference between old and new money, all you have to do is spend a day in the Pointes followed by an hour in West Bloomfield. The West Bloomfield folk are all about the bling, concerned only with having the appearance of taste, which in their juvenile understanding of wealth they believe translates into designer labels, expensive cars, gaudy houses and gaudier jewelry.)
Once inside, it is still all about the image, and Zinc caters well to its conceit-conscious crowd. The interior is very trendy, featuring an all-oak bar with a stainless steel top, a well-lit selection of liquors, and cozy round booths (the only problem is the entryway, which is about 2'x2', and isn't very conducive to long wait times). The dining area is open, airy, and bustling, and there are mirrors overhead that really don't seem to serve any purpose but to make the place look larger (although I suppose if the angle is right a guy with a wandering eye could get a nice shot of an unsuspecting woman's mountain tops). The wait staff is always impeccably groomed with the women dressed in that ultra-trendy/borderline-slutty style straight from the cover of Cosmo. Thankfully, I was looking super-cute in my white terrycloth tube-top jumpsuit with white patent leather cork-wedge heels and my Banana Boat bottle tan recently touched up, so I fit right in.
A place like this could easily fall victim to its own aesthetic and focus more on appearance than on substance. But, fortunately for the quality-deprived West Bloomfielders, Zinc raises its own bar by not only offering a chic atmosphere for singles to mingle, but also offering a stellar wine list and phenomenal food.
Zinc opened in early 2004 by Mark and Matthew Brown, the family that also owns the Red Coat Tavern in Royal Oak, a place widely agreed upon by native Detroiters to have the best burger around. They even offer the "Red Coat Burger" on their menu—which is a nice touch of non-pretentiousness, considering this is one of those places that also features Oysters Mignonette, Octopus Provence, and a Chilled Half Lobster on its “Seafood Bar” menu.
There is a killer drink on the menu called the Boysenberry Mojito, and this thing is probably the embodiment of the perfect summer cocktail (despite the fact that the last time I had it was the dead of winter, though I still had no trouble sucking down three). But don't you know, they were OUT of mint on this particular night. Now, I'm not counting it against them this time, it being early spring and them not having any inclination that the drink would be so popular in the warmer weather, but if it happens again I am totally posting a strongly-worded blog about it on my Myspace.
In keeping with the trendy French-brasserie theme of the restaurant, the wine list is predominantly French and French-varietals from New-World regions. There are a few glimmers of Old-World Spain and Italy, and our friends from South America also take a slight bow. The bottle list is priced accordingly, and the markup isn’t terrible. Most bottles run about $50-60, which is pretty standard restaurant pricing for mid-grade French producers. The bottle list is eclectic, and the by-the-glass list offers an impressive range (better than most)—most befitting for a wine bar. There is also a selection of fine European beers available by producers you would be lucky to find in even the savviest of bars—most befitting for a brasserie.
But what really makes Zinc the "brasserie" it claims to be is the menu. Heavy on all things Provençal (and by that I mean. a lot of niçoise olives), the selection is indubitably French—even the menu, printed on what looks like paper bag stock, has a "Parisian" look about, using what I like to refer to as the "Moulin Rouge" font to give it even more of that cafe-in-Paris appeal. I suppose the chintziness of the menu stock would somehow, someway be considered Euro-shabby-chic...because there is nothing that those classy Europeans do that we Americans don't find chic enough to co-opt.
But despite whether you find the menu clever or cheap, the offerings on it are impressive. The menu offers everything from the classic niçoise and Caesar salads to very decadent lobster bisque, from grilled lamb chops with a broken olive tapenade to grilled chicken frites with garlic-saffron aioli and braised Swiss chard, from Apple Tarte Tatin to Crepes Suzette. Pommes Frites (Belgian-style fries) are featured heavily here, being a side dish all its own as well as having its own entrée section (“Plates with Fries”)—these tasty, thin strips of twice-fried potatoes are, as was described by my companion, nothing short of “droolikins.” But what really put me in Zinc’s corner was the Assiette de Fromages—the cheese plate. Anywhere that has a cheese plate is top-notch to me. Here, expect the French basics: brie, camembert, something from Alsace-Lorraine. But it’s still a cheese plate, and it ain’t standard American cheddar block.
At Zinc, a full four-to-five course meal is in order. You will start with salty Italian foccacia (eat it while it’s warm). Then on to the appetizers. The cutely-named Salmon Ménage-`a-Trois was presented as a layered concoction, the first two of which were simple and tasty (the salmon tartare and caviar), the bottom of which was...meh. The problem with the layered presentation is that, when tasted in the layers as intended, the strong flavor of the bottom layer—pastis-smoked salmon with watercress in a lemon-basil oil (it sounds good, but the consistency came off like coleslaw, and I swear I tasted mayo)—overwhelmed the tartare and caviar, so that the simple, pleasurable flavors of these two preparations couldn't be fully enjoyed. And it tasted like salmon coleslaw.
The Escargots de Bourgogne, however, is probably some of the best escargot offered in the Detroit Metro area. Firm without any hint of rubberiness or grittiness, and soaked in the classic preparation of liquid butter with parsley and huge chunks of garlic, this dish is a definite must—and be sure to sop up all that extra garlic butter with the hunk of crusty French bread served on the side.
Though the menu is predominantly French, there are a handful of fusion elements present here, most noticeable in the seafood and foul dishes, which offer the now pervasively-trendy infusion of Asian influences (a trend which I find tiresome, and more than a little irritating—keep the soy sauce out of my brasserie, thankyouverymuch). For your entrée, try the Lamb Osso Buco ("on the bone"). This is a dish typically made with veal, making the lamb a unique Mediterranean spin on a classic Italian-style dish. The lamb was tender and flavorful, with a simple gremolata (a salsa verde made of garlic, parsley, and lemon peel) as its accompaniment, as is the traditional Italian preparation. The saffron "risotto"—and I use quotation marks here because it was really just standard long-grain rice—was superb, creamy with a hint of garlic and without being overly "saffron-y." The side of Swiss chard, a very bitter leafy green, was marinated in lemon, garlic, and parmesan and was a bold complement to the rich lamb (and delicious in forkfuls all on its own). One down side: most establishments offer a marrow scoop—yes, this is an actual item used specifically for the purpose of scooping marrow—with their presentation of Osso Buco. (This is a delicacy—the marrow soaks up all the juices from the meat and amplifies it, condensing the flavor into something even more impacting, and widely agreed upon as being the best part of and perfect finish to Osso Buco.) Zinc did not do this, and we had to ask for (*gasp*) a cocktail fork. This is an epicurean no-no…but most diners would be none the wiser. (Especially in West Bloomfield…oh, snap!)
The dessert offerings are limited and lack any significant creative luster, but they are classic Parisian-style indulgences and Zinc does them well. Try the Chocolate Pot du Créme, which has a consistency somewhere between mousse and custard, and is rich with the slightly bitter flavor of bittersweet chocolate with chunks of bittersweet chocolate smattered on top.
As much as the clientele an establishment such as this draws in come across as being pretentious trend-seekers, Zinc still maintains a slightly more down-to-earth feel (especially on a slower night). The food is fantastic, the offerings carefully selected for their style and the way they enhance the overall impression of the menu, the wine is impressive, the décor appealing…overall, this really is a quality brasserie made popular by its crowd and reputable for its quality. This is the best West Bloomfield has to offer (BESIDES the Lark, DUH), and I mean that in the best possible way. No, really, I do.
zinc brasserie & wine bar. 6745 orchard lake rd. west bloomfield. 248.865.0500
prices. apps, salads, soups, burgers: $7-$13. entrees $16-27.
hours. mon-sat 11am-1.30am (kitchen), 11am-2am (bar). closed sun.
Or at least that's what they want you to think, and for the most part they pull it off.
One thing that cannot be ignored when in Zinc is the clientele--pulling into the parking lot, you find yourself surrounded by brand-new shiny Escalades, H3's, Benzes, Corvettes, and usually one or two exotics (there is a Ferrari dealership right down the road, after all).
Welcome to West Bloomfield, where people have a WHOLE lot of money and they want EVERYONE to know it. The problem is, prior to the introduction of Zinc a little over 3 years ago, they didn't have any taste.
(A very prevalent after-effect of "new money" mentality--and if there is any doubt in your puerile perception that there is indeed a difference between old and new money, all you have to do is spend a day in the Pointes followed by an hour in West Bloomfield. The West Bloomfield folk are all about the bling, concerned only with having the appearance of taste, which in their juvenile understanding of wealth they believe translates into designer labels, expensive cars, gaudy houses and gaudier jewelry.)
Once inside, it is still all about the image, and Zinc caters well to its conceit-conscious crowd. The interior is very trendy, featuring an all-oak bar with a stainless steel top, a well-lit selection of liquors, and cozy round booths (the only problem is the entryway, which is about 2'x2', and isn't very conducive to long wait times). The dining area is open, airy, and bustling, and there are mirrors overhead that really don't seem to serve any purpose but to make the place look larger (although I suppose if the angle is right a guy with a wandering eye could get a nice shot of an unsuspecting woman's mountain tops). The wait staff is always impeccably groomed with the women dressed in that ultra-trendy/borderline-slutty style straight from the cover of Cosmo. Thankfully, I was looking super-cute in my white terrycloth tube-top jumpsuit with white patent leather cork-wedge heels and my Banana Boat bottle tan recently touched up, so I fit right in.
A place like this could easily fall victim to its own aesthetic and focus more on appearance than on substance. But, fortunately for the quality-deprived West Bloomfielders, Zinc raises its own bar by not only offering a chic atmosphere for singles to mingle, but also offering a stellar wine list and phenomenal food.
Zinc opened in early 2004 by Mark and Matthew Brown, the family that also owns the Red Coat Tavern in Royal Oak, a place widely agreed upon by native Detroiters to have the best burger around. They even offer the "Red Coat Burger" on their menu—which is a nice touch of non-pretentiousness, considering this is one of those places that also features Oysters Mignonette, Octopus Provence, and a Chilled Half Lobster on its “Seafood Bar” menu.
There is a killer drink on the menu called the Boysenberry Mojito, and this thing is probably the embodiment of the perfect summer cocktail (despite the fact that the last time I had it was the dead of winter, though I still had no trouble sucking down three). But don't you know, they were OUT of mint on this particular night. Now, I'm not counting it against them this time, it being early spring and them not having any inclination that the drink would be so popular in the warmer weather, but if it happens again I am totally posting a strongly-worded blog about it on my Myspace.
In keeping with the trendy French-brasserie theme of the restaurant, the wine list is predominantly French and French-varietals from New-World regions. There are a few glimmers of Old-World Spain and Italy, and our friends from South America also take a slight bow. The bottle list is priced accordingly, and the markup isn’t terrible. Most bottles run about $50-60, which is pretty standard restaurant pricing for mid-grade French producers. The bottle list is eclectic, and the by-the-glass list offers an impressive range (better than most)—most befitting for a wine bar. There is also a selection of fine European beers available by producers you would be lucky to find in even the savviest of bars—most befitting for a brasserie.
But what really makes Zinc the "brasserie" it claims to be is the menu. Heavy on all things Provençal (and by that I mean. a lot of niçoise olives), the selection is indubitably French—even the menu, printed on what looks like paper bag stock, has a "Parisian" look about, using what I like to refer to as the "Moulin Rouge" font to give it even more of that cafe-in-Paris appeal. I suppose the chintziness of the menu stock would somehow, someway be considered Euro-shabby-chic...because there is nothing that those classy Europeans do that we Americans don't find chic enough to co-opt.
But despite whether you find the menu clever or cheap, the offerings on it are impressive. The menu offers everything from the classic niçoise and Caesar salads to very decadent lobster bisque, from grilled lamb chops with a broken olive tapenade to grilled chicken frites with garlic-saffron aioli and braised Swiss chard, from Apple Tarte Tatin to Crepes Suzette. Pommes Frites (Belgian-style fries) are featured heavily here, being a side dish all its own as well as having its own entrée section (“Plates with Fries”)—these tasty, thin strips of twice-fried potatoes are, as was described by my companion, nothing short of “droolikins.” But what really put me in Zinc’s corner was the Assiette de Fromages—the cheese plate. Anywhere that has a cheese plate is top-notch to me. Here, expect the French basics: brie, camembert, something from Alsace-Lorraine. But it’s still a cheese plate, and it ain’t standard American cheddar block.
At Zinc, a full four-to-five course meal is in order. You will start with salty Italian foccacia (eat it while it’s warm). Then on to the appetizers. The cutely-named Salmon Ménage-`a-Trois was presented as a layered concoction, the first two of which were simple and tasty (the salmon tartare and caviar), the bottom of which was...meh. The problem with the layered presentation is that, when tasted in the layers as intended, the strong flavor of the bottom layer—pastis-smoked salmon with watercress in a lemon-basil oil (it sounds good, but the consistency came off like coleslaw, and I swear I tasted mayo)—overwhelmed the tartare and caviar, so that the simple, pleasurable flavors of these two preparations couldn't be fully enjoyed. And it tasted like salmon coleslaw.
The Escargots de Bourgogne, however, is probably some of the best escargot offered in the Detroit Metro area. Firm without any hint of rubberiness or grittiness, and soaked in the classic preparation of liquid butter with parsley and huge chunks of garlic, this dish is a definite must—and be sure to sop up all that extra garlic butter with the hunk of crusty French bread served on the side.
Though the menu is predominantly French, there are a handful of fusion elements present here, most noticeable in the seafood and foul dishes, which offer the now pervasively-trendy infusion of Asian influences (a trend which I find tiresome, and more than a little irritating—keep the soy sauce out of my brasserie, thankyouverymuch). For your entrée, try the Lamb Osso Buco ("on the bone"). This is a dish typically made with veal, making the lamb a unique Mediterranean spin on a classic Italian-style dish. The lamb was tender and flavorful, with a simple gremolata (a salsa verde made of garlic, parsley, and lemon peel) as its accompaniment, as is the traditional Italian preparation. The saffron "risotto"—and I use quotation marks here because it was really just standard long-grain rice—was superb, creamy with a hint of garlic and without being overly "saffron-y." The side of Swiss chard, a very bitter leafy green, was marinated in lemon, garlic, and parmesan and was a bold complement to the rich lamb (and delicious in forkfuls all on its own). One down side: most establishments offer a marrow scoop—yes, this is an actual item used specifically for the purpose of scooping marrow—with their presentation of Osso Buco. (This is a delicacy—the marrow soaks up all the juices from the meat and amplifies it, condensing the flavor into something even more impacting, and widely agreed upon as being the best part of and perfect finish to Osso Buco.) Zinc did not do this, and we had to ask for (*gasp*) a cocktail fork. This is an epicurean no-no…but most diners would be none the wiser. (Especially in West Bloomfield…oh, snap!)
The dessert offerings are limited and lack any significant creative luster, but they are classic Parisian-style indulgences and Zinc does them well. Try the Chocolate Pot du Créme, which has a consistency somewhere between mousse and custard, and is rich with the slightly bitter flavor of bittersweet chocolate with chunks of bittersweet chocolate smattered on top.
As much as the clientele an establishment such as this draws in come across as being pretentious trend-seekers, Zinc still maintains a slightly more down-to-earth feel (especially on a slower night). The food is fantastic, the offerings carefully selected for their style and the way they enhance the overall impression of the menu, the wine is impressive, the décor appealing…overall, this really is a quality brasserie made popular by its crowd and reputable for its quality. This is the best West Bloomfield has to offer (BESIDES the Lark, DUH), and I mean that in the best possible way. No, really, I do.
zinc brasserie & wine bar. 6745 orchard lake rd. west bloomfield. 248.865.0500
prices. apps, salads, soups, burgers: $7-$13. entrees $16-27.
hours. mon-sat 11am-1.30am (kitchen), 11am-2am (bar). closed sun.
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