[NEWS BITES] The Root to open second location in Howell, renovating historic movie theatre

Photo by Nicole Rupersburg.

After a previous deal fell through, the Root Restaurant and Bar in White Lake has finalized the purchase of the Howell Theatre, located in downtown Howell, for a second location of their popular modern Michiganian restaurant.

The Howell Theatre is a historic structure, built in 1927, and an iconic landmark in downtown Howell. The Root owner Ed Mamou has purchased the entire building, including the apartments above, and will be renovating the whole structure (including those apartments, for super-fans of the Root who might want to have the restaurant as their de facto lobby). "We're going to dump a ton of money into downtown Howell," says Executive Chef James Rigato, who grew up in Howell right across the street from the theatre. "You could see the marquee from my bedroom window!"

Howell is another one of those adorable Michigan downtowns that is the very picture of picturesque. Much like the Root's original location in White Lake, a location that certainly fell under some scrutiny when they first opened, the Howell restaurant will likely raise some eyebrows. Why not Detroit, Ann Arbor, Royal Oak, Birmingham -- the social and cultural centers of southeastern Michigan where all the other restaurants are?

Because that's where all the other restaurants are.

The Root's success in the far-flung northern suburb of White Lake has demonstrated that destination dining WILL bring people out of their normal comfort zones and even act as a catalyst for further development in an area that could really benefit from that extra bit of attention. 

"Downtown Howell reminds me of Clarkston or Milford before [restaurants like the Clarkston Union or Five Lakes Grill] opened," says James, referring to their small town Main Street charm and all-local clientele. "This is a restaurant that will make a splash and hopefully bring more businesses to the area." 

He sees a lot of similarities between Howell and White Lake, and a lot of opportunity to repeat the same success they've had with the White Lake location. "There's people with money ... it's not this tiny shithole town." (Which isn't to say that only people with money are welcome; rather that the outsider perception of these being "redneck" rural cities is simply, egregiously, wrong.)

Also, being a Michigan chef using Michigan products is James's biggest passion and the thing he is most proud of and most excited about as a chef. Being in cities like White Lake and Howell, which are surrounded by farmland, enables him to be close to the source of much of his product. "We basically open restaurants where food comes from."

James has some big plans for the new restaurant. He wants this to be a multi-faceted dining experience -- catering, banquets, a "really cool bar" that offers more of the nightlight experience. While plans are still very much in the early stages, he's even considering keeping the projector and throwing kung fu dance parties. And he definitely plans on keeping the "badass" marquee.

In keeping with that movie theme, James says, "This is basically Terminator 2. We've got the big cameras and the big budget now." The Root Howell will be a bigger, better, flashier version of the original. 

The theatre will continue operation for the next two or three months, and then renovation work will begin. James expects the project will take nine months to a year, though that is of course an estimate -- they'll know more once they actually dig into the structure itself and see how much work really needs to be done. 

Earlier this month James was a finalist for Food and Wine's "Best New Chef: Great Lakes" for 2013. (Though he did not win, he was the only chef from Michigan even nominated.) Since opening in May 2011, the Root has been named Restaurant of the Year by the Detroit Free Press, and most recently filmed a full-length episode for a new show premiering this year on the Cooking Channel.

[EID Feature] When you go to the Auto Show, Go Natural

The new atrium at Cobo Center. Photo by Nicole Rupersburg.

By now you've heard about the $300 million renovation project currently underway at Cobo Center. Part of the construction includes a three-story glass-walled atrium overlooking the Detroit River, which will make its debut (temporarily) during the 2013 North American International Auto Show when it opens to the public next Saturday, January 19.

Just a tad less buzzworthy, but something the Detroit Regional Convention Facility Authority is also very excited about, is their new concession stand Go Natural located on the main concourse, opening just in time for the Auto Show. Go Natural is the first step in a whole new direction for Centerplate, the Cobo Center's food service vendor. This grab-and-go cafe features a variety of prepared foods - soups, salads and sandwiches - all made with fresh, natural, locally-sourced ingredients. Organic produce, locally-raised free-range chickens, from-scratch soups and more are on the menu at Go Natural, which is all part of a larger initiative by Centerplate to not just catch up to the marketplace but "leapfrog" it, offering the kind of food not normally found in convention centers. Options at Go Natural include breakfast and lunch items, and are definitely hearty yet healthy.

In addition to the atrium, which will host private parties and VIP dinners, the new construction in Cobo will include a grand ballroom, additional meeting rooms, a brand-new food court and a new 8,000-square-foot kitchen with private tasting room. Catering will be entirely overseen by Centerplate's ACF Executive Chef Jamie Miller, whose biggest passion and primary objective is to use fresh, locally-sourced ingredients in his cooking.

I had the chance to preview Go Natural, as well as the Auto Show in mid-construction, this past Thursday. Check out the photos in the slideshow below. For the record, I had the buffalo chicken sandwich and tomato soup. The sandwich was made with huge chunks of high-quality chicken and more huge chunks of bleu cheese on ciabatta bread, the soup was loaded with fresh vegetables, and the ladies at the counter were lovely. As far as convention center "fast food" goes, this place seems pretty top-notch.

Go Natural at Cobo Center - Slideshow Creator

[NEWS BITES] The Root opening second location in Howell; Pizzeria Biga opening third location in Ann Arbor

Both these haps are pretty hush-hush, but I have confirmation that Pizzeria Biga has started build-out on what will be their third location, this one in Ann Arbor. Proprietor Luciano del Signore always intended for Biga to expand into multiple locations and with Royal Oak already a hit, that ball of dough certainly seems to be rolling.

And in keeping with their tradition of choosing WTF locations in metro Detroit's BFE, the Root Restaurant will be opening a second location in Howell. An agreement has been reached but build-out has not yet started.

[EID Feature] Gastronomy: Restaurant of the Year (At Least It Should Be)

The best meal I ever had in metro Detroit was at Tribute in Farmington Hills when Takashi Yagihashi was still there. (In fact, that meal makes the short list for best dining experiences I’ve ever had in my life.) Following that meal are more meals at Tribute (post-Takashi) and a couple of trips to Iridescence (in both its OLD location in the MotorCity Casino before the hotel was built and the glorious new space). And now, Gastronomy.

My first visit to Gastronomy was in the first week they opened. They didn’t yet have a liquor license and were serving lunch only (they are now serving both dinner and alcohol). One look at the menu and a brief chat with the general manager and I knew, I just knew. Then I had the food.

Foie gras brulee.

Some places open with lots of fanfare – usually because of a really strong social media and marketing blitzkrieg (sometimes I even help with that); sometimes because of some local quasi-“star” player or established brand involved; sometimes because enough buzz was built on the ground level and people were simply really excited about, with or without the aid of PR. Gastronomy opened quietly … so quietly that barely anyone even knew about it. There were no feature spreads in the Free Press or Detroit News, no significant following on Facebook, no real buzz of which to speak. (A story in Crain’s from Nate Skid was so preemptive one could assume readers all but forgot about it; then there was some turnover with the chef and partners involved … i.e., Prentice is out.)

But does good buzz equal a good restaurant? I’m reminded of a line from the H.M.S. Pinafore: “’What never?’ ‘No, never.’ ‘What, never?’ ‘Hardly ever!’” In other words, the best places don’t usually need to blow their own horns.

Opinions on restaurants are highly subjective. (Just look at Yelp.) Here is fact: Gastronomy is the best new restaurant in metro Detroit, period. The end. There needs to be no further discussion. If Gastronomy isn’t adorned with “Restaurant of the Year” by the likes of Hour and the Free Press, they are wrong. Period. (Well, either wrong or playing a game of restaurant/advertiser politics, from which there is no escape.)

There are reasons why you might not know about Gastronomy. First, it is in a weird and somewhat off-putting office park in wholly un-sexy Southfield, and it is a place you must specifically seek out as it is tucked away in said weird and somewhat off-putting office park (you would never just drive by and feel compelled to pop in). Second, try as they did to re-vamp the interior of what was once a Morton’s Steakhouse (they tried to lighten it up with bright colors and also blew out a couple of windows to allow some natural light in), they can’t quite escape that “hotel conference center/banquet hall” vibe. (I blame the low ceilings.) But I’m not talking about metro Detroit’s sexiest restaurant (besides, that’s Roast); I’m talking about BEST.

Executive Chef Adam Hightower is no joke. A Michigan native and Schoolcraft culinary graduate, he has worked for private clubs in Michigan, New York, Florida and Houston; was on the USA Culinary Olympic Team in 2000; staged in Europe for a year; trained as a Sous Chef under Certified Master Chef Lawrence McFadden at the Ritz-Carlton’s flagship location in Naples; was the Executive Chef at Honolulu’s AAA Four-Diamond Bali by the Sea; and most recently returned from Hong Kong to oversee Gastronomy. This isn’t some small-potatoes Midwestern chef; this guy is the real deal, an accomplished culinarian able to compete on the world’s stage who chose once again to make Michigan his home.

And as a Michigan chef, Hightower’s menu at Gastronomy is a Michigan-by-way-of-the-world menu. Their whole concept is to source as much product from Michigan as possible, and if not Michigan than America (for example, their coffee is from Kona, Hawaii and is served in what they call an “American press”). Everything – everything – is made from scratch in-house, from the breads (including naan) and pastries made from in-house Pastry Chef Emily Davis (another Schoolcraft grad – this place could be an advertisement for that school) to the bitters, infusions and syrups used in the craft cocktails created by some of metro Detroit’s most noted mixologists. They have their own herb garden on the property and will also have their own greenhouse close by that will supply them year-round. They serve “black water” which they mix themselves, a “healthier” version of water with almost 45% more oxygen and 77 minerals. (It tastes like regular not-as-healthy water but looks like Coca-Cola. To their knowledge they are the only restaurant in the country serving it.)

Steak and eggs.

The menu is a tour of the familiar yet not, regional yet worldly. The lunch menu is full of salads and sandwiches (as would be expected), but with unique spins. (They also offer a “lunch box” which is a five-course mini-meal for only $16.) There is a whole section on the menu dedicated to a specific region of global cuisine that will change every 6-8 weeks (they started with Southeast Asia.) The dinner menu is where the culinary team really shines with items like the Foie Gras Brulee (with chocolate, pineapple, cherry and chili) and “Steak and Eggs.” (From the menu description: “It is what it is, we just do it differently.” Indeed.) The gastropub, attached to the restaurant but with an identity all its own, has its own “pub snacks” menu that includes the “Gastronomy Haute Dog,” a house-made hot dog with house-made bun served with house-made accouterments including pickled jalapeno, sweet relish, ballpark mustard and chipotle ketchup.

Flourless chocolate cake.

After my first visit, I scheduled a time to meet with General Manager and Sommelier Chris Salazar to talk about the concept and do that thing I do. I figured we would chat, I would order a couple of small plates, snap a few photos and be on my way. Instead I stayed for nearly three hours and feasted on an impromptu eight-course chef’s tasting which included all of the above items. Each item was equally or more spectacular than the one before it, and by the time I got to the “haute” dog – of all things – and the Rolling Stone’s cover of “Paint It Black” came on I was so happy I wanted to cry. The only bad thing about that meal was the fact that I knew it had to end. And then it did end ... with the Flourless Chocolate Cake – salted caramel crémeux, chocolate-covered Kona beans, vanilla malt whipped cream. It was the culinary equivalent of the crux of Beethoven’s 9th, the “Ode to Joy.”

Not only was the food itself phenomenal, on a level to which so many area restaurants aspire but so very, very few ever achieve, but the presentation was exceptional. Some more rustic chefs sneer at plating and presentation, considering it secondary to the food itself – they’re wrong. We eat with our eyes as much as our mouths. Adam Hightower understands this, and his presentation is in a league of its own.

To have your own experience of unadulterated joy, there is a chef’s table that seats up to eight people right outside the kitchen. Adam will also happily prepare a chef’s tasting for your table (whether you’re at the “special” table or not) upon request. There is no specific menu for this: Adam will come to your table to find out what your company likes and create a menu then and there. Vegetarians and vegans are also welcome; a special vegan menu will be introduced soon that isn’t JUST for vegans, but for anyone looking for a lighter, healthier meal.

Oh, and in keeping with the Michigan theme, they of course have a nice selection of Michigan craft beers, wines and spirits. Which probably went without saying but, you know, it’s still worth saying.

Want to see more? View the Flickr set here.

 

[EID Preview] Palate

All photos by Nicole Rupersburg.

I lived in Waterford what feels like a lifetime ago. Back then, there really wasn't anything worth visiting the area specifically for. You made do with what you had, and otherwise drove to other cities for what you wanted. West Bloomfield, Commerce Twp., White Lake, Wixom, Highland and Milford were all relatively close ("relative" because no matter where you go on that side of town, you have to drive around a bunch of lakes to get there). Commerce Twp. had It's a Matter of Taste. Keego Harbor -- the tiny byway town connecting Waterford and West Bloomfield through Cass Lake, Sylvan Lake, Orchard Lake, Pine Lake and a few smaller lakes -- had Jeremy Restaurant and Bar. West Bloomfield had a great wine bar and steakhouse that, much like every other place of real quality that opens in West Bloomfield, closed after a couple of years. At the time Brian Polcyn's Five Lakes Grill in Milford was still open and hadn't yet changed over to Cinco Lagos, and right across the street there was Sean O'Callahan's, a great Irish pub that served proper pints of Guinness and lots of Irish whiskeys. And that ... that was pretty much it.

But now! I rue the day I gave up that $375/mo. one-bedroom apartment (gas and water included; true story) because now the area is getting pretty cool and it is FAR (both geographically and metaphorically) from the hipster-riddled downtown Detroit I now call home. Now White Lake has the Root Restaurant (a short 15-minute drive from my old apartment, which would have meant MUCH more frequent visitations), and Milford has craft beer bar and sustainable from-scratch restaurant Palate.

The last time I was in Milford was a little over two years ago. Downtown Milford is a charming Michigan Main Street that, like so many other charming Michigan Main Streets, was decimated during the recession. Polcyn kept afloat by rebranding; a lot of other places weren't so lucky (O'Callahan's was one of them). On my last visit it seemed like every other storefront was shuttered and Milford was a dying downtown; now, Milford is once again a bustling downtown with nearly every storefront occupied with adorable independently-owned boutiques, cafes and restaurants. There is a flurry of foot traffic and lots of people happily dining on sidewalk patios. And inside the space that was once home to O'Callahan's, an enthusiastic couple are opening the bar/restaurant of their dreams.

When I sat down to chat with Bristol Arnold, who is opening the much-anticipated Palate (get your head out of Planet Detroit, people) with her soon-to-be husband Joe Hibbert, I experienced that moment when my professional decorum (as it were) was promptly discarded and I fell absolutely and entirely in love with them, their concept and their whole entire ethos and began to gush. These are Good People. And while there are quite a lot of Good People in this business locally (Michigan as a whole doesn't really realize how fortunate it is in this regard), it can be downright heartbreaking when Good People don't have good product. (And also when absolute bastards manage to get it right.) But Palate is Good People with good product, and now I have yet another place an hour drive from my home that I wish I could support on a daily basis. (Hey, apartments in Milford are damn cheap!)

Joe and Bristol met while both were going through some major life changes. A professional dancer who had worked for Disney, Royal Caribbean and even toured with Cirque, Bristol was looking for a more stable professional life which she found as a dance teacher in Walled Lake. At the time Joe was still a partner in Uptown Grille in Commerce Twp., a place that received rave reviews for its craft beer program and from-scratch kitchen when it first opened but ultimately took a direction Joe wasn't happy with, prompting him to leave. Bristol met Joe in the course of planning a friend's bridal shower at Uptown Grille, and if you think the whole concept of love at first sight is cheesy ... well yeah, probably it is, except for when it's true and then it really is beautiful to see. (Even for a stone-cold cynic like me.) These two are the real deal, and Palate is the product of their shared passions.

When Joe left Uptown it was without any animosity. "He left because he wanted to focus on his mission versus someone else's and not have to worry about someone else changing his plans," Bristol explains. And this steadfast refusal to compromise his own integrity is a professional trademark of Joe's: he grew up in Canada and got his start in the restaurant industry at Wendy's when he was 13 years old. When corporate America took Wendy's over and the food became all boxed and frozen, he left. He has since opened many restaurants and is willing to do whatever it takes to keep the place functioning well and keeping the customers happy, whether that means cooking on the line or cleaning toilets.

Bristol herself had always had the dream of opening a coffee and wine bar and the name she had in her head was always Palate. "Palate" is a bit of a play, as the word (which refers to the roof of the mouth and is used colloquially to describe one's refinement of taste, though one technically has nothing to do with the other) is often confused with its homonym "palette," which refers to a painter's tool or collection of colors. "It's the part of your body that tells you what you like and what you don't," Bristol says. "But an artist draws on a palette, and food from the farmer comes on a pallet" -- referring to large, flat wooden shipping mechanisms, and yet another homonym.

To fully incorporate the palate/palette/pallet theme, Bristol and Joe worked with local artists for every detail in the restaurant -- from the used Dragon's Milk bourbon barrels from New Holland Brewing that were hand-painted with other local brewery logos to the repurposed pallets made into art pieces in the shape of a wine bottle and glass that are the focal point of the main dining room. Because they are also a family-friendly establishment (the main wall of the secondary dining room is adorned with the words "Be our guest," a nod to Bristol's days at Disney), kids get a chalkboard "palette" to draw on, which ties in with the theme but also has the added advantage of reducing waste.

"We're trying not to leave a huge imprint," states Bristol. "That’s why I chose not to give kids crayons and paper and instead give them a chalkboard and chalk. I’m doing everything I can to be paperless, even encouraging our vendors." They have participated in several fundraising events and festivals, including catering the VIP tent at the Michigan Brewers Guild Summer Beer Festival, and they always use compostable products for off-site events. (In fact it was through the MBG's Executive Director Scott Graham that Bristol learned a lot about leaving a carbon imprint.)

That same ethos can be seen in various touched throughout the restaurant, from the repurposed pallets and barrels previously mentioned to the reclaimed wood bar rail from a barn in Hamburg Twp. At the very heart of all of this is a commitment to using "what's around [us]," to procure as much as they can locally and work with local people, from farmers to artists to tradesmen. "It’s so much more than food; it’s education," Bristol explains. "We want to educate our consumers. We want people to support Michigan and bring a new economy to life here [by educating] everyone in our community about what they’re consuming and who they support." She adds, "We’re really grateful to have the resources we have in Michigan."

They buy produce from small, local farmers who can't afford the "organic" label. They make everything in their kitchen from scratch -- no microwaves, nothing frozen, nothing boxed. "Our team here is a labor of love. They like to make things from scratch. They know it’s time consuming but that’s what they’re passionate about."

Joe's own dream has always been to offer farm-fresh food with craft cocktails and craft beer at an economical price so that anybody can eat at his restaurant a couple of times a week; a kid-friendly place that the community would love and want to be a part of. The food at Palate is all farm-to-table, offering small plates and different types of cuisines from all over the world made from scratch using local products. Items include an "exquisite" hand-packed burger, cherrywood-smoked-bacon-wrapped scallops, lamb chops, and "true" Neapolitan pizza. (Bristol spent some time learning how to make Neapolitan pizzas in Italy, and upholds Antica Pizzeria Fellini as the local gold standard.) To further their goal of customer education, their iPad menus are interactive and show pictures of the food, the farms, the vineyards, and allow the customers the opportunity to find out more information on where everything on their plate and in their glass is from. (And once again, this wholly electronic system significantly reduces paper waste.)

Their craft cocktail menu was designed with assistance from mad scientist mixologist Dave Porcaro from Cafe Muse. They're offering 40 bottles of wine from small producers under $30 and all available by the glass. And of course, there is a huge emphasis on Michigan craft beer.

Thanks to Joe's many years in the industry, he has developed strong relationships with local brewers and distributors and has access to some pretty cool stuff ... but, spoilers! You'll just have to follow their Facebook page for those updates. Their staff are all Cicerone-certified beer servers and they have a $50,000 custom-built stone beer wall. The entire tap system and bar is optimized for maximum beer enjoyment.

And all of this is really the culmination of everything Joe has worked towards as a restaurateur all along. "Joe is adamant about quality; he’s not going to sacrifice quality," Bristol says of her future husband (they're getting married -- and moving, and opening the restaurant -- this month). "A lot of people have closed doors in his face. The charity work he’s done is endless; he has raised over a million dollars over the past four years [for local charities]. He raised $30,000 one night alone at a spaghetti dinner at Uptown. He’s just awesome! It’s not just what he does for a living; it’s the driving force that he has to help people. All of our leftovers go to Forgotten Harvest -- the breads, anything dry. [We're really] major into charity work and community!" Long-term Joe and Bristol hope to do even more to embrace and educate their community, like working with local schools on field trips to teach kids about kitchen safety and how to bake bread.

Both Joe and Bristol view Palate as a collaborative effort of many people, not just themselves. "I put so much time into including other people in this project," Bristol says. "It's not just about Joe and I. It's about employing local artists, local contractors, using all of our Michigan resources, and getting it going so when people look at it they can say, 'Hey, I was part of that.' Tons of people were part of this project and we’re proud of that and want them to be proud of it because that’s what’s it about."

She admits it took them a long time to get the restaurant ready to open (apparently some locals took to the almighty grousing grounds of the Internet to complain about it), but she simply says, "Good things take time and attention to detail. When you rush a project like this it doesn't do anyone any favors." As they get ready to open, Bristol is bubbling over with excitement. "The people we’ve been surrounded with are just magical. With us together and the people we have here the possibilities are endless!"

Palate opens today.

[HOT LIST] Old Mission Peninsula

Sunset on Old Mission. All photos by Nicole Rupersburg.

Mario Batali has been yammering on incessantly about Traverse City once again, which is great and all but based on his "favorite picks" it sure does seem like he never makes the journey from his pad on the Leelanau Peninsula around the bay and onto Old Mission all that often. Old Mission (along with its sister Leelanau) is pretty much the crown at the head of Traverse City. And if the Sleeping Bear Dunes National Park is the most beautiful place in America, then Old Mission Peninsula is the most beautiful place on the planet.* It is 19 miles long and divides Grand Traverse Bay into East and West Bays. At its widest point it is three miles wide; at its narrowest points you have truly breathtaking panoramic views of both sparkling bays over the sloping vineyards and fruit orchards. Say what you will about Napa, Tuscany or Bordeaux, they look like an Ohio cornfield compared to this. (It's true. I've been. They do.)

In fact, do say what you will about Bordeaux; the world’s most esteemed winemaking region happens to sit along the same circle of latitude, the 45th Parallel, as the Old Mission American Viticultural Area (AVA), and world-recognized winemakers are taking up the challenge of making world-class wines in this region. The peninsula has seven wineries (though two more have been approved) and only a smattering of restaurants and hotels (well ... "inns"). The rest is preserved land (a state park and lots 'o farms), so Old Mission will stay frozen in this tranquil state of un-development forever. If late summer travel plans take you "up north," make this one of your highlights.

#1 Mission Table + Jolly Pumpkin
Do your life a favor and have dinner and many many drinks on the deck at Mission Table. With places like Trattoria Stella and Cook's House in Traverse City stealing all the thunder, Mission Table never seems to gets its due. Executive Chef Paul Olson is a quiet genius: he just does his thing, tending to his herb garden out back, cranking out some fan-freakin’-bloody-tastic farm-to-table seasonal dishes. This restaurant is a true representation of the indigenous flavors of Michigan. Think tender, succulent lamb loin with oven-roasted cauliflower, or crispy pork belly with housemade kimchi, roasted brussel sprouts, and a poached egg ... as one friend put it, "Paul should Iron Chef the shit out of Batali." As I put it, "I fucking love Paul." Attached to Mission Table is the Jolly Pumpkin Restaurant and Brewery, which is DUH IT'S JOLLY PUMPKIN. (And all their beers are also available at Mission Table; the deck is shared.) Oh, the deck? Overlooking West Bay, quiet, surrounded by trees, sunlight reflecting off the water -- some people meditate. This is better.

#2 Chateau Chantal 
Chateau Chantal is an estate winery and bed + breakfast. The Inn is connected to their tasting room, and guests are free to conduct their own wine sampling after-hours (this is northern Michigan, where people still believe in the honors system). The chef-prepared daily breakfasts are fantastic, and during the summer you can follow it up with their lunchtime "tapas tours" through the vineyard. They also have what might actually be one of the most stunning patio views in the state: order a glass of wine and a plate of cheese from local creameries and chill on the patio overlooking the bay, or check out their prix fixe seven-course wine dinners held several nights a week through October.

#3 2 Lads Winery
It's fun and young (four years old this year), and it also has the best damn view on the peninsula. 2 Lads' sleek, ultra-modern tasting room is perched atop a hill overlooking the bay with absolutely no obstructions. You might find it difficult to pay attention to the pourer's spiel when right behind them is a massive window showcasing this spectacular view, but do try to pay attention: 2 Lads specializes in cool climate reds and sparkling wines, and winemaker Cornel Olivier (originally from South Africa) believes that Michigan's reds can one day be on par with Bordeaux. Genius? Or insanity? It may be a fine line, but it sure does have a nice view.

Here's more of me gushing over Old Mission wines.

Actually here's more of me gushing over Old Mission to New Yorkers.

#4 Peninsula Grill
For casual fare, the Peninsula Grill offers classic American grill cuisine of serious excellence (try one of the flatbreads), along with a solid selection of local wines and beers. Longtime bartender Johnny even promises he’ll remember what you drink for next time.

#5 Tesoro Inn
A lot of people don’t like B+Bs because they’re a little too…folksy. The Tesoro Inn is the ultimate anti-B+B B+B. Owners Jane and Les Hagaman have created the kind of bed and breakfast experience that will appeal to even the most ambiance-sensitive. Jane is an artist and interior designer; Les is an accomplished fine dining chef. Their home is beautifully decorated with their own Asian-inspired art pieces and multi-colored slate floors, yet is also comfortable and inviting with warm tones and soft textures. For those of you seeking the “foodie” experience, their three-course farm-to-table breakfasts and homemade evening desserts (left on your nightstand next to the following day's breakfast menu printed on gorgeous cream-colored stationary) will make you want to make yourself at home FOREVER. But book early: the word is out on this three-year-old spot and they only have three guest rooms.

Bubbling under Brys Estate, The Boathouse, Peninsula Cellars, Black Star Farms Tasting Room, Chateau Grand Traverse, Old Mission General Store, Bowers Harbor Inn

*Eye for an eye, hyperbole for hyperbole.

[EID Preview] Local Kitchen + Bar

All photos by Nicole Rupersburg.

As much as chef-partner Rick Halberg tries to underplay the cuisine at Local Kitchen + Bar as "everyday food," avoiding the word "comfort" since upscale comfort food is all the culinary rage right now (particularly in this region), Local is quintessentially American, and there's no shame in that game.

Local celebrates Americana in a way that is appropriately fashionable for Ferndale. Partners Rick Halberg and Brian Siegel are both long-time area restaurateurs, and while Local has been on the lips of food bloggers hungry for bloggy buzz for some time now, they’ve taken the time to do things right. (Which is another way of saying it’s taken a lot longer than initially planned/announced, but that’s hardly news in the restaurant industry. See also: Astro, Sugar House, Green Dot, etc.)

Rick has been out of the restaurant industry for six years now and has been "dying to get back in." "We wanted to do a neighborhood place to eat that was really for the community," he explains. "We found this space and it seemed to fit perfectly with our partnership," referring to Local's relationship with event planning company Star Trax, which will be responsible for much of the booking in the sizable event space upstairs (where Via Nove used to throw techno parties, only this time it will be more like weddings, showers, bar/batmitzvahs, etc.).

The concept for Local is "to do a restaurant that is for everyone ... everybody's doing comfort food; we're trying to shy away from that package. It's really just about everyday food prepared extraordinarily well. We really want to focus on the community." The word "local" of course signifies a commitment to the use of locally-sourced ingredients and local suppliers (as much as possible) including Michigan beers and wines, working with local artisan food producers like Corridor Sausage, sourcing from Michigan farms, and even having their own share in the Ferndale community farm. "We want to do [this] the best way we can and offer product[s] that [are] accessible to as many people as possible."

The event space upstairs.

So what might "everyday foods" with a local emphasis look like? Chicken-fried chicken. Mac and cheese. Burgers. A pig platter with various different pork presentations. "Super fresh" fish. Hearty salads. And just about everything made from scratch in their kitchen, including honest-to-goodness American desserts like seasonal pies, cobblers, Devil's Food Cake, and other "bake sale items" (like brownies and Rice Krispies treats) that will be on display in their vintage rotating dessert display. Oh, and POUTINE. The focus is all on "super fresh, super clean" food, and not fancy presentations.

As a long-time chef and restaurateur himself, Local marks a return to form for Rick. A graduate of the CIA back in the '70s (when "it was just getting cool to be a chef"), Rick jokes he was "on the cutting edge of cool for one moment in my life." He had earlier endeavors in West Bloomfield and Birmingham, but his crowning achievement thus far was Emily's in Northville, which offered extremely high-end dining that at one point held the highest Zagat food rating in the United States (a 28 on a scale of 30, a ranking Emily's shared with only a few other restaurants in the country).

Diners remember the Emily's name and are excited to see the new concept emerge. As for Rick, while he will still be working as a chef in his restaurant (a chef's table in the kitchen with seating for 8-10 guests will be personally attended to by Rick himself), he has built up an impressive team of culinary talent including sous chefs Ricky McCormick, formerly of Cafe Muse, and Nick Schultz, who will be weekend moonlighting with Brew Jus. "It's really exciting to me to have the opportunity to influence another group of young cooks and chefs," Rick says. "It's kind of a nice reward for me to be able to do that." And he adds, "I'm very focused on quality and service. We're not going to slip at all here."

Diners can look forward to weekly specials, a late-night menu, a bar menu, craft cocktails, craft sodas and more. But one thing that might steal the thunder from the food is the fabulous indoor/outdoor patio with a towering wood-burning fireplace as the centerpiece. "We'll really have a 12-month feel to the patio," Rick notes, half of which will be closed off in the winter months so guests can still cozy up around the fireplace for cocktailing and dining.

The space, designed by none other than Ron Rea (a longtime friend of Rick's and Brian's), has a cozy Americana feel to it: wicker furniture on the indoor/outdoor patio, vintage pieces Rick has collected over time (including an antique hutch from an estate sale), an old park bench, stools that look like they came straight from a high school chem lab. The palette is soft and suits the stylish-yet-homey motif, like something you might find in the pages of Country Living. Where the trendy upscale comfort foot joints are universally gunning for urban-rustic, Local brings with it a certain bit of southern gentility, classic country without being corny. "Brian and I both had a very specific image in mind," Rick says. "We wanted it to be super-casual, not over-designed in any way. We wanted to have a lot of integrity in the feeling of this place. Ron's great like that."

The building itself used to be a gas station “a zillion years ago.” Part of the design aesthetic was to strip it down to some of the more iconic design elements, like the original wooden beams in the ceiling and the original brickwork. A communal table built of reclaimed wood will separate the bar from the dining room space. "Our space will be truly iconic for the neighborhood," Rick states. "Our food and service will be excellent, and our commitment to hospitality will be second to none."

Local opens later this month.

 

[Metromode] Fests and Fundraisers Go Local

Chef/Owner Brandon Johns of the Grange Kitchen + Bar in Ann Arbor at Baconfest Michigan

Here in metro Detroit we certainly have our fair share of fairs, festivals and food-centric fundraisers. But where food-centered events used to be primarily about gathering a bunch of restaurants together and serving the masses (with little regard to what exactly the masses were being served), over the last few years the nature of our local festivals has shifted to be more … well, local.

It probably goes without saying that any food event or festival held around town is going to feature local restaurants (and local art and local musicians and so on). But never before has there been such a strong emphasis on local products. Restaurants are one thing, but restaurants that source produce from local growers and meat from local farms are what people now really want to see. Beer, wine and liquor are standard-issue at any event, but Michigan-made beer, wine and liquor create a much stronger draw - while instilling a little hometown pride.

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[EID Feature] The Poutine Prophecy is Fulfilled at Brooklyn Street Local

All photos by Nicole Rupersburg.

Dee Gifford and Jason Yates are Detroit n00bs, but they seem to have the hang of it already. They just opened a brand-new diner on what is now the hottest stretch of business real estate in Detroit: a place where lighting has struck not once, not twice, but at this point three certifiable times with a couple more still dangling as question marks in the air. (Will Mercury Burger Bar be a huge hit on the level of Slows/Astro/Sugar House, or do they lack the appropriate booster connections to make them buzzworthy? With the media/restaurant dream team behind Gold Cash Gold will it be Huge Ass Huge? Will the Bagel Brothers open to as much acclaim as they received when just working out of their kitchen in Corktown a year ago and FORTHELOVEOFMAN WHEN WILL THAT BE???)

Yep, for a business owner or would-be entrepreneur, Michigan Avenue is the place to be to capitalize on the magic leprechaun juju of Corktown. But for Dee and Jason, who moved here in January from Toronto (Other Fake New York, but a better one), it was simply a golden opportunity for a young couple to open their own business.

Why? Because buildings are cheap and the dream of the ‘90s is alive in Detroit.

“I wanted to open a restaurant,” Dee says. “It’s been my dream for about five or six years now. When Jason and I met he also wanted to open a restaurant so that worked out very well.”

Jason had lived in Toronto his whole life and Dee had lived there on and off for a decade, but they didn’t have the capital to open a restaurant in Toronto. “It is prohibitively expensive to open a restaurant [there],” she explains. “It’s really competitive; every block has 10 restaurants. It’s a fun place to be a server but I didn’t have $500,000 in tips lying around [to open a restaurant].”

So they started thinking about different places they could go, and Jason – who is also a musician and had Detroit on his radar from that world – suggested they check out Detroit. “I had heard of the local food scene, the urban farms, and we knew property prices would probably be cheaper.” And how!

Over Canadian Thanksgiving in October 2010, Dee and Jason came down to check it out. They drove around the city, went to bars, saw bands play at PJ’s Lager House, and kept coming back for more. “There was no real structure to our visits,” she says. But eventually they stayed at Hostel Detroit shortly after it opened last spring, and that was really when they started to get serious about looking at properties. “We met a whole bunch of people through that. It was definitely a big influence on us; everyone we know in Detroit we pretty much know through the people we met through the hostel.”

In most cities the opening of a hostel barely raises an eyebrow, but in Detroit it signified what many here already knew to be the dawn of a new Detroit – a Detroit not just attracting business travelers with the Big Three and conference attendees at Cobo Hall, but a Detroit that was attracting curious young people from all over the planet who had heard the stories and wanted to see it for themselves. Sure, that whole conversation is sooooo last year, but in the example of Dee and Jason the hostel provided exactly what founder Emily Doerr had always intended for it to do: create a community hub, a place for locals and visitors to converge, for relationships to be made and ideas to evolve. It’s not JUST a hostel; it’s the only hostel in a city that in just 3-4 years has become a source of fascination for the rest of the world (even if that fascination did start out somewhat inadvertently as Schadenfreude).

Dee and Jason had spotted the building that would become Brooklyn Street Local on Michigan Avenue and thought it was a great location. But there were no signs indicating if the building was even available or who to call to inquire about it. Through their connections from the hostel, they got connected with Ryan Cooley of O’Connor Real Estate who showed them the space. “We thought it would be a good fit and it absolutely was.”

Dee’s mother made the investment in the building and they are renting-to-own from her. “We feel very lucky to have parents who were supportive [of our idea],” Dee says. “When we were telling people who weren’t familiar with the city they’d say, ‘WHY are you moving to DETROIT?’ Our parents were like, ‘Awesome, that sounds like a really fun project!’” They closed on the building in December and moved to Detroit on January 16.

Work began on the inside; they kept the kitchen but redid most of the interior space. They trolled Craigslist and thrift stores for chairs, bar stools and other interior elements (like the old church pew). Graffiti artist Reyes painted a mural on the side of the building as part of the “Detroit Beautification Project.” There were some minor repairs that needed to be done and other area businesses rallied around them with recommendations and general support.

“Another thing we found very different from Toronto when we came here was how other business owners [were asking us] ‘What do you need?’” Dee comments. “They were all very supportive. It doesn’t even feel like competition in the traditional sense.” She remembers taking a small business management class in Toronto and making a business plan for a restaurant which including having to “scope out” the competition and get “the competitive edge.” “[This] didn’t feel like competition in the traditional sense ... everyone was very collaborative and really supportive. The way we’re thinking about other businesses [here] is not in an ‘us vs. them’ sort of way. It’s all very supportive and awesome!”

Whether it was people they hadn’t even known for two months putting in a 12-hour day slinging poutine at the St. Patrick’s Day Parade or fellow business owners lending a helping hand (sometimes two hands), Dee and Jason were given a big fat friendly Detroit welcome.

Brooklyn Street Local official opened for business on May 17. If you’re wondering about the name, there is no great mystery: “Brooklyn Street” is the name of the cross street on Michigan Ave. where the restaurant is located; “local” refers to their emphasis on local products. “We definitely wanted to include local and organic food; we’re very passionate about it.”

As for that food, they make everything in-house themselves. They aren’t formerly trained as chefs – Dee learned a bit from working at a specialty grocery store that had a prepared foods section and Jason just loves to cook – so what you get is truly the home-style home-cooked experience. They make all of the sauces, dressings, and mustard; all of the pastries and the quiche; anything and everything baked; the veggie burgers and hummus (Jason’s own recipe); even the pea meal bacon. What they didn’t already know how to do themselves, they learned. You want to know about Detroit-style DIY? This is it right here.

Whatever they don’t make themselves they get from local producers, like tempeh from the Brinery and jam from Slow Jams Jam. They get produce from Brother Nature Produce not even half a mile away. They have a wide selection of vegetarian and vegan items on their menu, and a lot of items can be made vegetarian and vegan – like their poutine made with hand-cut fries, which can be made with mushroom gravy. (Their vegan bacon is very popular.)

Right now they are only open for breakfast and lunch Tuesday through Friday 8 a.m. to 3 p.m. and Saturday and Sunday 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. (and cash only). Dee has a lot of ideas for them down the road – dinner events, workshops on canning and making their signature mustard, really any number of different fun things. But for now they’re focused on getting their initial business down and bringing poutine (and other stuff) to the hungry masses.

OHMYGOD LET’S TALK ABOUT POUTINE.

A year ago I was in Toronto and I posted a picture of poutine to the EID Facebook page. People were like “LOL WUT” and “Ew, sounds gross.” And so I began to beat the poutine drum, seeking it out in whatever meager capacity it existed in metro Detroit and often wondering aloud to followers why the F no one around here makes it or even knows what the hell it is with Canada so close by. I prophesized poutine was going to be a thing here (saying, literally, “Poutine: it’s gonna be a ‘thing’”), and then? Green Dot Stables announced they were going to have it. And then Mercury Burger Bar announced they were going to have it (they even put a it on a window cling). All of this while Dee and Jason were getting their place ready and wondering themselves how no one else had thought of it.

Well, a couple of people did (and I’m not saying I had anything to do with it, I’m just saying let’s not discount the possibility), but fact is fact so brace yourselves: much like Mexicans make the best Mexican food and Japanese people make the best sushi and black people make the best soul food and drunks make the best beer, Canadians make the best poutine. At long last, the poutine prophecy has been fulfilled.

Want to see more? View the Flickr set here.

 

[Metromix] Torino Espresso + Bar

Photo by VATO for Metromix.

There aren’t many places in metro Detroit where you can get a shot of illy® espresso at 6 a.m., then end your night with shots of limoncello at 2 a.m. Torino Espresso + Bar in Ferndale is in a class by itself there. Childhood friends Noah Dorfman, Samer Abdallah and Jim Culliton wanted Torino to be the kind of coffee bar-meets-BAR bar hangout popular all over Europe but rare to find in the States (and almost unheard of in metro Detroit).

“We wanted to be able to showcase this European experience that metro Detroit really doesn’t have,” says Dorfman. “It’s been really nice [to be able to do that]. Some people come in here with their laptop and order a martini; you can’t do that at Starbucks.”

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[Metromode] All Things Pickled

Perkins Pickles at Rust Belt Market. Photo by Nicole Rupersburg.

Rumored to be a lucky food (for anyone who has a six-year-old jar of "lucky" pickles in the fridge), a hangover cure (especially true when speared into a Bloody Mary), and now the latest trend to get skewered by IFC's Portlandia, pickles are all the rage. As the momentum of artisan food movements across the country continues to barrel forward, there is a subset of makers interested in traditional food preservation methods. From home canning to charcuterie clubs to self-professed picklers and briners, centuries-old techniques are au courant, and we've got more than a hand-full of artisanal pickle producers right here in metro Detroit.

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[Metromix] Mae's

Mae's Bacon Butter Burger Deluxe. Photo by VATO for Metromix.

It’s not quite Ferndale but it’s so close it should be counted among Ferndale’s notorious teeny-tiny diners famous for breakfast and lunch. Mae’s in Pleasant Ridge has been open two years in April under the ownership of the snarky yet adorable husband-and-wife team Sean and Jessica McCarthy. Eating here is like going to Grandma’s if Grandma were an effortlessly cool twenty-or-thirty-something who smokes and swears and does cool artsy things without being self-important about it. It’s a mom and pop shop for the Facebook-and-iPad generation.

The Mood:
It’s retro hipster chic inside Mae’s. The walls are adorned with vintage signs from Detroit brands like Vernors, Faygo and Wonderbread, some dating as far back as the 1920s. The vintage décor pairs well with the original teal-blue 1950s soda shop stools, chairs, and chrome tables with laminate tops. “All the furniture is original [to the restaurant],” Sean says. “We didn’t have to come up with a design concept!” Glassware and plates are mismatched and kitschy. On one wall you’ll find chalkboard specials and a collection of black and white photographs spanning three generations of Jessica’s family. The photos—some art, some personal, all professional-quality—were taken by Jessica, her brother, their dad and their grandfather, all of whom were photographers. As far as looking at other people’s family photographs go, these are actually fascinating, and lend a very personal feel to the place. And on any given day, this 42-seat breakfast nook is populated by our skinny-jeaned, shaggy-haired, horn-rimmed, mustachioed, plaid-adorned friends who believe Beirut is a band first, the name of a shawarma shop second, and a Middle Eastern capital city a distant third.

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(Note: be sure to click through the photo gallery for descriptions of the dishes.)

[Macomb Now] Chef Ray Hollingsworth at Loon River Cafe

Chef Ray Hollingsworth. Photo by Garrett MacLean for Macomb Now.

Executive Chef Ray Hollingsworth first started his culinary career people said he was crazy. This was before the days of Food Network and before the cult followings of celebrity chefs, back when saying “I want to be a chef when I grow up,” was akin to saying, “I want to be a famous painter like Picasso.”

“I started cooking when I was 15,” Hollingsworth says. “Oakland Community College was the only school that had any kind of culinary program at the time; they were ahead of everybody.” He went through their program then spent three years training under American Culinary Federation (ACF) Certified Master Chef Jeffrey Gabriel at the Grosse Pointe Yacht Club. “Most of the chefs in the metro area were of European descent — like Master Chef Milos Cihelka of the Golden Mushroom. They were hardcore chefs; it was a harsh upbringing for awhile!” he laughs.

And then came Food Network and, with it, “foodie” culture. The average restaurant patron is much more savvy and educated when it comes to food now, and that knows no boundaries — unless, of course, you’re talking about the invisible line along I-75 that divides the culinary illuminati of Oakland County from the perceived plebian tastes of Macomb. That very same line also prevents the self-proclaimed “foodies” of Oakland County from stepping into eastern territory, convinced that there is no worthwhile culinary landscape to explore here.

At the Loon River Café inside the Best Western of Sterling Heights, a Michigan-themed lodge with emphasis on Michigan products, Hollingsworth tries to educate the eating public by using only the highest-quality ingredients and top talent. “In the early days we put a lot of emphasis in the quality of the product and employees; we hire local culinary students and ACF-certified chefs,” he explains. “We still do to this day, even with budget cuts. We’re not substituting for lower quality ingredients.”

Read the rest of the article here.

[HOT LIST] Eat to do good

Fresh Food Share box (photo from Gleaners Food Bank)

Some people eat to live. Some live to eat. And then there are those who eat to do good. While people are becoming more conscious of what they eat in terms of environmental and economic sustainability, still others see food as an opportunity to make a political statement and enact social change. Whether that is getting involved with food activism targeting specific legislation (such as the Michigan Good Food Charter), operating an urban farm through a nonprofit organization, or helping to make inexpensive fresh food available in urban areas, now more than ever you are what you eat.

#1 Fresh Food Share (Detroit)
The Fresh Food Share (FFS) is a community food program in the city of Detroit that is part of the Green Ribbon Collaborative - a partnership between Gleaners Food Bank, Eastern Market, the Fair Food Network and Greening of Detroit. The Hannan Center is the local distribution and volunteer center. Through this program, community members can participate in a monthly fresh food program (similar to a CSA) payable by cash, check, or Bridge card. Shares of fresh fruits and vegetables are available in a variety of sizes up to 30 pounds ($17), or you can choose to support a senior with a 20-pound mixed fruit and veggie box for only $14. Orders are due by noon on the second Thursday of the month through December 8 (the next order is due in by September 8); distribution is on the third Friday. For more information or to place an order, call 313-550-8034.

#2 SEED Wayne (Detroit)
SEED Wayne is a program administered through the Wayne State University College of Liberal Arts and Sciences (Department of Urban Studies and Planning) designed to help build a sustainable food system on the WSU campus and in the local community. They partner with other area nonprofits to create a culture of awareness and access, and the education starts with their own students. Since its launch, the program has planted three urban vegetable and herb gardens and now hosts a weekly on-campus farmers' market on Wednesdays (through October 26). They are also involved with fledgling programs such as Detroit FRESH (an effort to get fresh produce in corner stores), as well as host an annual Harvest Dinner.

#3 Forgotten Harvest (Oak Park)
The mission of Forgotten Harvest is to fight hunger and waste in metro Detroit by rescuing surplus prepared and perishable food and donating it to emergency shelters. They have hundreds of regular donors in addition to community food drives organized by private entities such as corporate offices and community groups (especially during the holidays). Their efforts benefit over 150 food pantries, soup kitchens, homeless and domestic shelters, senior citizens' and group homes, and children's homes all over Oakland, Wayne, and Macomb Counties. They also partner with other local businesses and organizations for a number of fundraising events including an annual charity golf outing and charity fashion events.

#4 Gleaners Community Food Bank (Detroit)
Gleaners Community Food Bank also strives to fight hunger in Southeastern Michigan through community outreach, education, and food distribution. They deliver 36 million pounds of donated and purchased food to agencies and people in need annually, and hope to raise that number to 50 million by 2013. To assist their fundraising efforts they host special events (such as the Bernie Smilovitz 2011 Harvest Classic this Sunday, September 11) and organize food drives. They also sponsor programs like "Cooking Matters," which teaches families how to shop for and prepare economical and nutritious meals at home.

#5 Capuchin Soup Kitchen and Earthworks Garden (Detroit)
The Capuchin Soup Kitchen is an 82-year-old organization founded by Capuchin friars to tend to people's basic needs, especially the need for food. The organization is inspired by the philanthropic works of St. Francis of Assisi, and serves the people of metro Detroit through a number of programs including the On the Rise Bakery and the Earthworks Garden. They also offer clothing, shelter, and rehabilitative services. You can start doing your part by attending the Earth Works Garden Annual Harvest Dinner on September 17.

Bubbling under Fair Food Network Detroit, Slow Food Detroit, Feedom Freedom Growers, ROC-United

[EID Feature] The Root: Back to Basics

Pan-seared scallops. All photos by Nicole Rupersburg.

Earlier this week we gave you "The Best of Waterford," but there's one place we did not include. (a) Because it's not actually in Waterford; it's in White Lake (next door), and (b) save the best for last, right?

The Root Restaurant and Bar in White Lake has only been open two and a half months, but greater metro Detroit is already taking notice. They've got over 100 reviews on Open Table, more than 900 fans on their Facebook page, 16 glowing reviews on Yelp, and have also caught the attention of the Freep's Sylvia Rector and Crain's Nathan Skid. On weeknights they'll have anywhere from 70-150 covers (that's HUGE); on weekends they're booked solid for the night. You may find yourself asking, "What's a place like this doing in White Lake?" Newsflash: White Lake is not full of poors, and sometimes people who live here get sick of having to drive to Birmingham or Clarkston or West Bloomfield every time they want to have a fine(r) dining experience. "The food scene up here is a little insulting to the demographic," says 26-year-old Executive Chef James Rigato, who is so passionate about his food ethos you'll want to build a restaurant just for him to head ... not totally unlike how it actually happened, really.

Enter the Root, the BRAND-spanking new contemporary American restaurant located in a shopping plaza just off M-59/Highland Rd. The emphasis is on seasonal and regional cuisine, working with local farmers, growers and butchers on an ever-evolving menu in which everything - right down to the breads, pastries and ice creams - is made from scratch. "We smoke our own bacon, brine our own chickens...it's an all from-scratch menu. I'm very passionate; I'll fight over my food."

[EID Feature] Mootown Creamery: Making History at Historic Eastern Market

(All photos by Nicole Rupersburg)

Eastern Market, the largest historic public market district in the country, has been in its current location for 120 years. And in 120 years, it has never has an ice cream shop.

Jaw>>>>floor. Sounds absurd, right?

That was, of course, until Mootown Creamery opened on May 13, 2011.

Located in a primo spot on the same little strip as the über-popular Supino Pizzeria and Russell St. Deli, Mootown Creamery is a perfect post-pizza destination for a summertime snack (and baby, it’s hot outside).

Mootown Creamery is a family-owned and -operated business. Sisters and first-time partners Chris Kelley and Leslie Hayden opened the place, and Chris’s daughter Brittney Mabry is the smiling face you’ll usually find behind the counter. Even Grandma’s involved – in the back you’ll find a selection of her pretty hand-made greeting cards, T-shirts, flip-flops, and other gifts. If they don’t have your size in stock, she’ll make it for you.

If I didn’t already know that it was a group of females behind the place, I’d assume it: the inside looks like every young girl’s fantasy dollhouse. Pastel greens, purples, wrought iron café tables painted white, candy-colored plaster ice cream displays (even the logo features a “sexy” cartoon cow) – the look is definitively “girly” and cheerily charming, giving it that old-fashioned soda shoppe appeal. The staff is also unflappably friendly, which makes this simply a nice place to go to put a smile on your face.

And ice cream in your belly, no doubt. Mootown Creamery carries Michigan-made Hudsonville Ice Cream, which is trying to expand more into the Detroit market: this is one of the only places in the area that you’ll find them. They make such Michigan-themed flavors as Sleeping Bear Dunes Bear Hug (chocolate ice cream with chocolate-covered cashews swirled with thick caramel), Michigan Deer Trax (peanut butter cups and thick chocolate fudge with vanilla ice cream), and, of course, Mackinaw Island Fudge. (And also classic flavors like strawberry, chocolate and butter pecan too, natch.) You can get your ice cream on a cake cone, sugar cone or waffle cone; in kiddie scoops all the way to triple scoops. They’ll make you extra-thick milkshakes, ice cream floats, gooey sundaes and loaded banana splits, or you can also try their Moo…Zerts (their version of a Blizzard).

They want to keep things local inside Mootown, so you’ll also find Better Made chips, Vernors, Faygo pop (POP!), even Ice Mountain bottled water (which is bottled in Michigan).

Originally the sisters were planning on opening a garden supply store, but after walking around the market and seeing that there was no ice cream there they decided to open an ice cream shop. And so it is that the 120-year ice cream embargo in Eastern Market has been lifted, and those 40,000+ people who descend upon the market every Saturday can now enjoy a cold, creamy treat on a blistering hot day. July…National Ice Cream Month…record-high temperatures….coincidence? Well, no, it’s always hot as Hades in July, which just means no time like the present to go check out Mootown Creamery! (They have air conditioning and lots of seating, too.)

Note from the Powers That Be: Our Eastern Market tours will be starting soon and we'll be hitting Mootown during the summer months; stay tuned!

Want to see more? Check out the Flickr set here.