[Thrillist] Detroit's 8 Best Places for Poutine

Nicole's Poutine at Rock City Eatery. Photo by Nicole Rupersburg - THE namesake Nicole of the poutine.

Poutine, that unholy trinity of French fries, gravy, and cheese curds, is one of Canada's great gifts to America. In Detroit, a city that's located right across the river from our benevolent Northern neighbors, it sure did take a while for the poutine trend to take root. Luckily, Detroit's come to realize that crossing the border for some late-night eats isn't really practical, which is why we've started making it everywhere. Here are the eight best spots to get it:

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[HOT LIST] Wild game

Loon River Cafe.

In the tradition of important Opening Days in Michigan, November 15 was opening day for gun season (bow season started October 1, and I for one think anyone who is badass enough to use a bow and arrow instead of a graceless, brutish gun which lacks a certain finesse when compared to bows, deserve that extra month and a half lead time). It seems like such a great time to run a wild game hot list, but ay, here's the rub: it is illegal to sell or commercially serve Michigan white tail deer meat unless the meat itself has been inspected by the FDA at USDA-approved slaughterhouses, of which there are only five in the state of Michigan and not one processes deer meat. Other slaughterhouses can process deer meat but only for individual or charitable nonprofit organization consumption. When you do find venison on a menu somewhere, it is from red deer imported from outside of the United States and is very costly (which is why you very rarely see it).

That being said, despite trying to tie this in with opening day, there simply isn't a whole lot of venison to be had on most menus, and despite our abundant deer population, the venison you'll find in restaurants isn't from Michigan*. It isn't even from America. Sound ludicrous? Start a petition, call your state rep, do something about it. Here are some places that make the most of what we do have. (Rabbit and duck can go a long way to make up for what we lack in deer.)

#1 Grange Kitchen + Bar (Ann Arbor)
You guys, this place is just really fantastic. It's the best. For realsies. Crazy game meat isn't always a staple on the regular menu (which is really quite fine, since their Scotch eggs and duck poutine still are, and have you ever had fried pig's head? You should totally try it), but there are often specials and events where Chef Brandon Johns serves items like smoked goose, quail egg and rabbit. Oh, and he sources everything locally, even the shrimp. Yes, there is a shrimp farm in Michigan (the Root and COLORS also use it).

#2 The Wurst Bar (Ypsilanti)
No, I do not work for them. And while realistically I cannot be there as often as I'd like to be, what they're doing is still pretty special. Now, here's where my definition of "game" meat might get a little loose: is rattlesnake meat wild game? What about alligator? And if they are considered game meats, they certainly aren't local. But where else in metro Detroit will you find rattlesnake and alligator on a menu? Therefore, Wurst Bar wins. They also make sausages from rabbit and bison, so there you go.

#3 Loon River Cafe (Sterling Heights)
Not only do they have probably one of the largest selections of wild game on their regular menu, but they also regularly host special wild game dinners. In fact, there is one coming up on November 26 and another on December 17. Guinea fowl, elk, quail, goat, buffalo, boar ... in the words of Kirsten Dunst as Claudia, the child vampire in the 1994 borderline-camp classic Interview with the Vampire: I want some more. Chef Ray Hollingsworth doesn't get a lot of love being over there in a Best Western on the dreaded east side, but he's kind of a bad ass.

#4 The Moose Preserve Bar and Grill (Bloomfield Hills), Camp Ticonderoga (Troy), Deadwood Bar + Grill (Northville), Beaver Creek Tackle and Beer Co. (Westland)
All four are tied because, despite some slight variations, they have effectively the same menus (and the same owners). Get a buffalo burger; buffalo meatloaf; venison brochette; their signature "Road Kill Grill" with roast venison, semi-boneless broiled quail and wild boar sausage with Michigan game gravy; or opt for the "Wild Thang" appetizer with samples of their spicy venison sausage, rabbit ravioli, duck tenders, whitefish pate and BBQ buffalo balls.

#5 Toasted Oak Grill + Market (Novi)
Now serving roast leg of Michigan white tail deer! It's better if you don't ask questions and just go. Duck and Great Lakes trout are also menu mainstays.

Bubbing under Roast (Detroit), Cuisine (Detroit), Big Rock Chop House (Birmingham), Due Venti (Clawson), Green Dot Stables (Corktown), the Root (White Lake), Cafe Muse (Royal Oak), Forrest Grill (Birmingham), Coach Insignia (Detroit), Atlas Global Bistro (Detroit), Cork Wine Pub (Pleasant Ridge), Bacco Ristorante (Southfield), Cafe Cortina (Farmington Hills), the Rattlesnake (Detroit)

*with a few "better not to ask" exceptions

[HOT LIST] Scotch eggs

Ye Olde Scotch egg. Technically not era-appropriate but whatevs.

The Scotch egg. In addition to thanking the British for Shakespeare and Doctor Who, we can also thank them for this. It is a hard-boiled egg wrapped in sausage, coated in bread crumbs and deep-fried. Brilliant! Places that serve them are in short supply in metro Detroit (most people's first and probably only experience of them was likely at the Ren Faire, which only merely does the trick like any festival food), but no need to go all arse-over-tit trying to find some -- I've done the work for you. (With thanks to my western beerespondent for being my steel-stomached guinea pig.)

#1 Grange Kitchen + Bar (Ann Arbor)
All good things are made with duck. It's a Scotch egg only the egg comes from ducks from Our Family Farm in Manchester, MI. Duck eggs might be smaller but they are soooooo much richer than those of their pedestrian poultry cousin chicken. And if you question Chef Brandon Johns's commitment to local sourcing (or are just really passionate about it yourself), don't miss his annual 52 Mile Dinner on Nov. 7.

#2 One-Eyed Betty's (Ferndale)
Can you believe this place hasn't even been open a year yet? I feel like it has always been and forever will be. Like having a cell phone. Like, I know intellectually that there was a time in my life before it but it just seems so foreign and far removed from me now. So anyway, the Scotch egg is a fairly new menu item and it is ON POINT. Their secret to Scotchy awesomeness? Panko bread crumbs. It makes ALL of the difference. Not some. ALL.

#3 Red Coat Tavern (Royal Oak, West Bloomfield)
One of these days these guys are going to jump into the new millennium and get a real website. Until then you'll just have to take my word for it: they have Scotch eggs, and they are good. And as one of metro Detroit's mainstays of awesome Belgian beer lists, this place is a consistent win (maybe you've heard of their burgers?). Also now that Vinsetta Garage is reeling in all the traffic it might actually be easier to get a seat here!

#4 Wurst Bar (Ypsilanti)
You may have noticed that I pretty much love this place. (They are featured in three of the last five Hot Lists, including this one.) So yes, I really pretty much entirely love this place. But please take note: these are not Scotch eggs. These are motherfucking pterodactyl eggs. And for $5.95 you get two of these monsters, which are soft-boiled so that the yolks are all yummy and runny. Fair warning, if you eat them both you will likely spend most of the next day feeling like there is an actual pterodactyl in your intestines that is about to rip its way free Alien-style.

Pterodactyl eggs from the Wurst Bar.

#5 Dominion House Tavern (Windsor)
There are Scotch eggs and they have them, but the interesting thing about "the DH" -- located juuuuuuust across the border in Windsor, making it all of about 10-15 minutes depending on bridge and tunnel traffic (heh heh heh ehhhhhh, that only means something to New Yorkers) -- is its history. It is the oldest continuously-run tavern in the Border Region and would have served well on my Prohibition bars hot list except for that OH WAIT, CANADA DIDN'T HAVE PROHIBITION. Canada is awesome. And living on a border is also awesome. And also you can see metal bands play there without any of that "bridge and tunnel" newly-minted Canadian legal/American minor nonsense you get on Ouellette.

Bubbling under Concrete Cuisine (food truck; menu varies), Ye Olde Saloon (Royal Oak), Sean O'Callaghan's (Plymouth), Fort Street Brewery (Lincoln Park), O'Connor's Public House (Rochester)

Now THAT is a Scotch egg. 

[HOT LIST] Poutine

Brooklyn Street Local. 

Last week both the Detroit Free Press and the Detroit News ran stories on Detroit's sudden poutine craze. Seeing as how I've been Pied-Pipering the poutine scene for the better part of a year now (while the bulk of that was covered on Facebook, there are also searchable archives here to support that), I feel it a matter of unfortunate timing that the results of my diligent research for this particular Hot List -- which is, make no mistake, the most thoroughly-researched Hot List I've ever published -- should come out after both of those stories. Let us remember who asked to henceforth be referred to as the Queen of Poutine before either of them ran. In other words what I'm really trying to say is FIRST.

Poutine is the most magical of comfort foods. Authentic ethnic cuisine from the exotic foreign lands of Canada, poutine is in essence French fries covered in gravy and cheese curds. And it must -- *MUST* -- be cheese curds; shredded cheese simply will not do. Perfect for the late-night drunchies, homeopathic hangover treatments and all hours of comfort food cravings, poutine is sovereign. With Windsor closer to Detroit than Royal Oak, it's a bit befuddling as to why poutine never became a "thing" until now. (Sidebar: If I had a dime for every time I've said "Poutine: it's gonna be a thing," well, I'd actually be getting paid for doing this which would be awesome.) But these dark days are now behind us and the poutine prophecy has been fulfilled.

Mercury Burger Bar.

Some things to note before we move forward, as this one has been particularly near and dear to me: with no fewer than three of the four hyper-trendy eateries in Corktown serving the stuff, Corktown can now be called Poutine Town. (Someone tell Slows that they're falling behind.) Some places serve what can only best be called variations on the theme of poutine (like Woodbridge Pub, which uses potato wedges with mushroom gravy and cheddar cheese cubes, or the Rattlesnake Club, which uses a bleu cheese sauce served on the side of their truffle fries), others need to go back to the drawing board (sorry, Mac Shack), and others still have been vastly improved upon after a little constructive criticism (Mercury Burger Bar before; Mercury Burger Bar after). And the trend shows no sign of stopping: Local Kitchen + Bar will have poutine on their menu too.

And finally, some might question why none of the Windsor joints are in the top 5. Easy: no one is paying $8 roundtrip to cross the border and deal with American customs for a $6 order of fries. Agree or disagree; that's just reality. Windsor will gets its due soon enough, promise.

#1 Vinsetta Garage (Berkley)
Yep. Number one. It isn't even called "poutine" on the menu, but their "Disco Fries" are no doubt of Canadian lineage. House-cut fries dolloped with perfectly melty gooey Ellsworth cheese curds and slathered in piping hot whole grain mustard gravy, chili flakes and scallions. How did this place beat out those of authentic Canadian pedigree? Well this restaurant is nothing if not a comfort food house of worship and while their mac + cheese is most exalted, the poutine is secretly king. Also, I have a bias towards spicy foods and the addition of whole grain mustard and chili flakes shot this over the top.

Vinsetta Garage.

#2 Brooklyn Street Local (Corktown)
Welcome to our country you lovely Canadians and thank you for sharing with us this part of your culture! Brooklyn Street Local serves the best traditional Canadian poutine: hand-cut fries with organic cheese curds and homemade beef gravy. Vegetarian? They'll swap out the beef gravy with a tasty homemade mushroom gravy. Bacontarian? They'll add caramelized onions and bacon. (That's the special house "BSL Poutine.") And and AND ... if what you really want is one of their other many fantastic made-from-scratch hearty diner eats, you can get a side of poutine for only $3. AND! As of this week, they now accept credit cards.

#3 Grange Kitchen + Bar (Ann Arbor)
No one's ever going to accuse their poutine of being pretty, but Chef Brandon Johns's duck confit poutine with goat cheese curd and duck sage gravy (all locally-sourced and made in-house, the cheese from Four Corners Creamery and the duck from Back Forty Acres) is not just awesome -- it is aw-awholelot. Grange, and quite possibly this dish in itself, is well worth the trip to A2.

#4 24grille (Detroit)
Kind of glad I kept this one in my back pocket. Executive Chef Christian Borden is from Toronto. This is important because, as we know, poutine is an indigenous Canadian cuisine and Canadians do it best by nature. The poutine at 24grille is something of a best-kept secret: only available on their lunch menu, it's $6 for an order of proper poutine made with hand-cut Idaho potato, gravy, cheese curds, herbs, and then cranked up with a pile o' pulled pork.

#5 Green Dot Stables (Corktown)
How much do we love them? Let's count the ways! (1) Owners Jacques and Christine Driscoll are simply outstanding people (ditto Chef Les Molnar). You'd want them to do well even if their product sucked. While there is certainly no shortage of nepotism in Detroit, thankfully their product does not suck so you can support awesome people doing equally awesome things. (2) Cheap beer! (3) Cheap food! (4) Cheap GOOD beer! (5) Cheap GOOD food! (6) And also poutine! "Le poutine" is $3 in the classic Canadian style: homemade gravy and cheese curds over their crispy shoestring fries. For added emphasis, it's $3. In fact, nothing on their menu is more than $3 ... and that includes all their craft beer and cocktails. LOVE.

Bubbling under Sardine Room (Plymouth), Frenchy's Poutinery (Windsor), Woodbridge Pub (Detroit), Toscana (Windsor), Mercury Burger Bar (Corktown), Rattlesnake Club (Detroit), Pita Grill (Windsor)

 

944 Detroit: Taking on Tree Town

So yeah, wow, I just figured out how to be able to link to the actual articles on 944 instead of the flipbook. A year later. So I'm going to start posting all these articles from the past year here (except for the first one I did, a nice little piece on al fresco dining, which is the only one without a link). Cool? Cool. Okay. Here 'ya go.

Photograph by Scott Spellman for 944 Detroit.

"Ann Arbor could easily be considered the culinary hub of Southeastern Michigan. The sheer quantity of dining options alone makes for a promising epicurean adventure. High-end provincial French cuisine? Check. After-hours pizzeria serving up big, greasy slices to inebriated college students? Check. Dining establishments boasting a steadfast commitment to sustainable cuisine or vegetarian and vegan-friendly menus? That too. Indian, Middle Eastern, Korean and Mexican foods? Ann Arbor’s got it all. 944 compiled a list of some of Ann Arbor’s best new places to explore (all within walking distance of the Ann Arbor Art Fair)..."

Read the rest of the article here.

Hour Detroit: Craft Cocktails Make a Comeback

Also note: Rifino Valentine of Valentine Vodka will also be opening his own cocktail bar in the coming months, an announcement made after the print deadline for this issue of Hour.

"Classic cocktails are having a resurgence. The almost cultish trend is one-part organic, two-parts local content, with a splash of Iron Chef and a dash of Mad Men for style.

'The new darling of the drinking crowd is rooted in the belief that drinks are meant to be sipped and savored, not slammed and forgotten. Apparently, the slow-food movement and its emphasis on farm-to-table, sustainable, and artisanal, applies to what’s on your plate — and in your glass.

''It’s a natural progression,' says Antoine Przekop, sommelier and beverage manager for Bourbon Steak and SaltWater at the MGM Grand Detroit. '[With craft cocktails], people want to push the envelope and do things that you would not expect, just like chefs do....'

Read the rest of the article here.

Michigan Beer Dinner at Grange Kitchen and Bar

I've been meaning to write about Ann Arbor's Grange Kitchen and Bar for awhile now. Five months, to be exact. I had great ideas on how I was going to present my experience of their fall menu and talk about their committment to sustainable cuisine with an entirely locally-sourced, organic menu and so on...

Well, it ain't fall anymore. Sometimes things slip by despite my best efforts. Perhaps you've noticed, but I'm kind of a busy lady. Ah well.

The least I can do for penitence is to feature their upcoming Michigan Beer Dinner on March 24th.

Chef Johns combines his critically acclaimed menu with the best beer Michigan has to offer, creating beer-food pairings that simply can’t be missed by beer lovers or anyone who enjoys the compliment of food and drink together. $50pp including beer. Tax and tip not.

Grange hosts a number of different themed dinners and monthly events that are worth checking out; the upcoming Slow Food "Ark of Taste" dinner is also particularly noteworthy. See more of their events here; and maybe one day I'll get around to writing that review of the place. (I even have a draft started and all the pictures uploaded, I swear! Even the intro is done!)