[Model D] Greektown Casino opens Brizola and new Market District food court

Greektown Casino hasn't had a proper fine dining establishment since the Alley Grille closed in 2009, and they've never had one located on the main gaming level. Enter the newly-opened Brizola.

Located on the main floor of the casino, Brizola was formerly the nightclub Eclipz Lounge (sidenote: we’re not sure what the thing is with the "z" either).

Read more.

[NEWS BITES] Wolfgang Puck's Steak now open inside MGM Grand Detroit

The headline says it all, but read the press release below for the full deets.

***

Wolfgang Puck Steak, an original concept from world-renowned chef Wolfgang Puck, is now open inside MGM Grand Detroit.

“Wolfgang Puck Steak is our new concept that we created specifically for Detroit and MGM Grand Detroit,” said Wolfgang Puck. “We have a broad menu of the finest steaks with delicious sides and sauces at aprice point for all diners. This is a break from the traditional high-end steakhouse.”

Wolfgang Puck Steak is poised to become the place to see and be seen in Detroit. The contemporary steak restaurant offers guests steakhouse favorites with Wolfgang’s signature style.

“Detroit is the classic example of a city that loves great steak and great value,” said Steve Zanella, general manager of MGM Grand Detroit. “In developing Wolfgang Puck Steak, we worked with Wolfgang and his team to craft a concept which speaks to both of thoseideals. Wolfgang did a superb job of creating a menu that beautifully marries the two.”

At the helm in the kitchen is Executive Chef Marc Djozlija, former chef of Wolfgang Puck Grille and more than 16-year veteran of the Wolfgang Puck Fine Dining Group. Djozlija also is the executive chef at Puck’s second MGM Grand Detroit restaurant, Wolfgang Puck Pizzeria & Cucina, which opened in early November.

On the menu is an assortment of grilled steaks and meats, shellfish and fresh fish plus a selection of sauces and side dishes to accompany the entrees. Starters range from classic steakhouse salads including Iceberg Lettuce Wedge with bacon, avocado and blue cheese ranch and Crab & Lobster Louie Salad to an array of appetizers such as Creamy Lobster, Crab and Clam Chowder with house-made crackers and New Orleans Barbecued Shrimp with Cognac-Dijon-Worcestershire sauce.

A variety meats will satiate any appetite including Kansas City Strip Steak, Filet Mignon, Ribeye Steak and a 34 oz. Bone In Rib Chop for Two. Additional entrée selections include The Puck Burger with white cheddar and caramelized onion“jam” on a brioche bun, Colorado Lamb Chops, Rotisserie Free-Range Chicken, and Pan Roasted Two-Pound Maine Lobster. The restaurant features rotating daily specials such as Barbecued Grilled Meatloaf with mashed potatoes and Braised Beef Short Ribs.

All grilled meats include a choice of one accompanying sauce such as Mustard-Cognac, House-Made Steak Sauce, Béarnaise, Peppercorn and Creamy Horseradish. Guests can top their cuts of meat with fried egg, blue cheese, caramelized onions, roasted garlic or Apple Wood smoked bacon. Numerous sides are available including baked, hash brown or mashed potatoes, “Tater Tots,” Onion Rings, Creamed or Garlic Spinach, Three Cheese Mac and Cheese and Loaded Baked Potato.

A sweet ending includes Apple Cobbler with almond streusel and 50 vanilla bean ice cream; Warm Chocolate Soufflé with whipped cream and chocolate sauce; and Coffee and Pecan Ice Cream Pie with graham cracker crust.

The dynamic beverage program features an international wine list with robust red wines and vibrant white wines plus artisan, custom-crafted cocktails. A few standouts include the Adios Nonino with Buffalo Trace Bourbon, Luxardo Amaretto and Aperol; the Aviation Violette with Tanqueray No. 10 Gin, Crème de Violette, Luxardo Maraschino and Lemon Juice; and the Samurai Sword made with Yamazaki 12-Year Whisky, Cointreau, House-made Honey Syrup and Lemon Juice.

Wolfgang Puck Steak exudes rustic style and casual warmth through earthy, red, scarlet and brown contemporary décor. Red leather, camel and charcoal tweed, umber cowhide, and scarlet, gold and brown textures combine to create a lively and rich dining environment. The expansive lounge area is perfect for guests either looking to grab a pre-dinner cocktail or to stay through dinner. The restaurant provides flexibility for many sizes groups in the main dining room, large private dining room, wine cellar table or Chef’s Table. Sepia-toned architectural photographs of Detroit’s skylines are screened onto glass divider panels in the lounge and Chef’s Table. Unique fabric wall panels, quilted into an intricate webbed pattern, depict the gridded pattern of city streets. As a nod to the industrious heritage of the Great Lakes area, panels of urban scenes and sculptures made of humble materials complement each other throughout the restaurant. The natural beauty of the region is brought in to the dining areas through images of grasses blowing in the wind at the water’s edge and quiet waters at twilight.

Wolfgang Puck Steak is open for dinner Sunday through Thursday from 5 p.m. – 10 p.m. and Friday and Saturday from 5 p.m. – 11 p.m. For reservations, please call 877-888-2121.

[NEWS BITES] Wolfgang Puck Pizzeria + Cucina opens tonight

In the wake of last night's monumental election results (the times, they are a'changin'), representatives for MGM Detroit ninja'ed this announcement into their morning emails: Wolfgang Puck Pizzeria + Cucina, Wolfgang Puck's newest restaurant at the MGM Grand Detroit, is opening today at 5 p.m. They will be open for dinner only, 5 p.m. -10 p.m. Wednesday, Thursday and Sunday and 5 p.m. - 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday, closed Monday and Tuesday. Executive Chef Marc Djozlija, a longtime Puck veteran, is once again at the helm.

Below is the full press release. (Note the little added announcement at the bottom.)

Celebrated chef Wolfgang Puck returns to MGM Grand Detroit, the city’s premier entertainment destination, with the opening of Wolfgang Puck Pizzeria + Cucina, the first of two new Puck restaurants at the hotel casino.

“It’s great to return to Detroit and to the MGM Grand with the opening of our casual Italian concept,” said Wolfgang Puck. “Our Pizzeria + Cucina is the perfect place to relax with family and friends. Great Italian food is all about great ingredients. It doesn’t have to be complicated, just delicious!”

Wolfgang Puck Pizzeria + Cucina offers guests a warm and inviting atmosphere in a comfortable setting with an approachable Italian menu.

“Our guests, who love Italian food and Wolfgang Puck, have been anxiously waiting for Wolfgang Puck Pizzeria + Cucina to open,” said Steve Zanella, general manager of MGM Grand Detroit. “We are extremely excited to welcome the restaurant to the MGM Grand Detroit family.”

At the helm in the kitchen is Executive Chef Marc Djozlija, former chef of Wolfgang Puck Grille and a 16-year veteran of the Wolfgang Puck Fine Dining Group. The menu features Puck’s famed wood-oven baked pizzas and pays tribute to Italy through pastas and specialty dishes and is complete with Italian favorites including antipasti, salads, handmade pastas, and enticing entrees featuring delectable meats and fish.

The menu highlights multiple varieties of pizza to choose from including the Margherita Pizza with mozzarella, tomato sauce and basil; Wild Mushroom Pizza with goat cheese, leeks and basil pesto and Italian Sausage Pizza with rapini and roasted garlic.

Additionally, guests can find house-made pastas and rustic Italian dishes including Penne Carbonara with sautéed English peas and crisp pancetta; Rigatoni with Bolognese meat sauce; Seafood Linguini “Fra Diavolo” with clams, shrimp, calamari and spicy tomato sauce; Chicken Piccata with lemon-caper butter sauce; Grilled Salmon with white beans, artichokes and rosemary butter; and Grilled Ribeye Steak with Tuscanpotatoes and salsa verde.

As a perfect finale, Pizzeria + Cucina offers a creative and playful dessert menu featuring classic Italian favorites with a modern twist. Decadent creations include Butterscotch and Bittersweet Chocolate Panna Cotta, Ricotta and Mascarpone Cheesecake with fresh berries and Affogato with hazelnut ice cream drenched with espresso.

The bar features a dynamic beverage list complementing the menu’s exquisite Italian flavors including domestic and international beers and a comprehensive section of wines, many imported from Italy. The bar offers an array of perfectly executed specialty cocktails including the Cucina Manhattan made with Bullet Rye, Carpano Antica Formula Vermouth and Bitter Truth "Jerry Thomas" Bitters and the Il Professore with Nardini Grappa, Cocchi Barolo Chinato, Luxardo Morlacco Cherry Liqueur and orange juice.

Wolfgang Puck Pizzeria + Cucina is open for dinner only, 5 p.m. -10 p.m. Wednesday, Thursday and Sunday and 5 p.m. - 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday, closed Monday and Tuesday. To make reservations, please call 877-888-2121.

A second Wolfgang Puck restaurant, Wolfgang Puck Steak, will open at the hotel this December.

[EID Feature] Michael Mina: The Inconspicuous Celebrity Chef

Photo from dcist.

After a lengthy chat with Wolfgang Puck - arguably the first and most celebrated of celebrity chefs -- and Michael Symon -- the iconoclast-turned-icon -- it seemed only natural to speak to metro Detroit's third nationally-recognized celebrity chef, the comparatively quiet and under-the-radar Michael Mina. 

Mina has two acclaimed restaurants in Detroit: Bourbon Steak and SaltWater, both inside the MGM Grand Detroit. Despite his stature in the culinary world -- and rest assured, he's right up there with the big dogs -- Mina manages to maintain an air of mystery. You don't see him in magazines or on talk shows. He doesn't give a lot of interviews and doesn't have his own TV show. And all of this is very intentional. Mina may seem shy, but in reality he's as affable as the more showboaty chefs -- he has a plan in place, and he's very patient. I had a rare opportunity to speak with this self-professed control freak last week, and this is what he had to say.

Mina grew up in Washington state in Ellensburg. He started his cooking career when he was 15. "I fell in love with it and decided to pursue it and try to make a career out of it." He attended the Culinary Institute of America in New York where he had an opportunity to work with "super chef" Charlie Palmer. Later, after graduating school, he had the chance to move to San Francisco and open his first restaurant, Aqua. (That restaurant would eventually close, but in a move that was both a personal triumph and highly symbolic for Mina, it would later reopen in the same location as the eponymous Michael Mina.) At the time he was only 22 years old. 

Aqua was an all-seafood restaurant and was a "very big success." From there he went on to open what he calls his "favorite" restaurant, Michael Mina at Bellagio in Las Vegas. And this is where I pause. Mina is nothing if not exceedingly humble. In recapping his life story for me at this point he says simple that he "opened a few more restaurants" before skipping ahead to Detroit (which is, of course, my primary point of interest). To clarify, "a few" is a grand total of 19 restaurants over 20 years. Not too shabby for an inconspicuous celebrity chef most people wouldn't recognize if he cooked for them personally right at their table. 

Photo from Eater Las Vegas.

MGM would eventually buy the Bellaggio which led to more opportunities for Mina to open more restaurants in various properties owned by MGM Resorts International -- including Nobhill Tavern and Seablue at MGM and Stripsteak at Mandalay Bay. It was this established relationship with MGM that, much like in the case of Wolfgang Puck, brought Mina to Detroit.

"I did not know much about Detroit but I had a chef, Marc St. Jacques, who had lived in Detroit for the majority of his life and he was very excited. [He said] 'I would love to do it; I would love to go there and work!'" At the time Mina had two restaurants inside the MGM in Las Vegas so they asked him to open two in Detroit (which had a lot to do with how the kitchens are set up and shared; wholly unglamorous reasoning, I know, but reality). 

Mina admits that any hesitation over opening a restaurant (two!) in the city of Detroit in the year 2007 was assuaged by the fact that he would have the built-in clientele of the casino (reality check: this was before Slows became a national media darling, when the dominant Detroit narrative both nationally and locally was one of never-ending doom and gloom; before Kwame was a convicted felon and still our beloved mayor whose biggest scandal was racking up credit card debt with the city's cards, leasing an SUV for his wife at the city's expense, and making some unpopular decisions like shuttering the Belle Isle Aquarium and Zoo ... a mere drop in the bucket for what was to come). 

"It wouldn't be a stretch [to open a fine dining restaurant] if you're from there, but I wouldn't see [Detroit] as a place to open a restaurant if it hadn't been in a casino. With the MGM you have the hotel; it's a draw. But obviously if you spend time [in Detroit you see] the chefs who have been there a long time [who have a] good clientele [base] they have built up over time." As an "outsider" chef in a downtrodden city (that can sometimes take as well to outsiders as the locals in Deliverance...hell, this town will turn on you if you live a mere nine miles north), Mina was definitely taking a chance. But, he says, "Being in the casino you have more interaction right at your front door. That was a draw. And sometimes you have to go just a little bit with your gut feeling."

Slow down before you all start getting defensive and arguing that Detroit is the most bestest city to open anything anywhere ever. He continues, "The clientele in Detroit has been phenomenal." When opening a new restaurant, Mina always stays in the city for a month (again, he is a self-professed control freak). "I made wonderful friends there. These are lifetime friends; I can tell. I talk to them on the phone all the time ... the people [in Detroit] are tremendous. I really enjoyed my time there."

As far as culinary sensibilities, Mina notes, "People say 'Oh people in Detroit don't want this or that'; it was surprising how flexible [the clientele] really [is]." For that month Mina met with purveyors to make sure they could get the products they needed and also interviewed staff. "Those are the two pieces you have to make sure you can get: product and staffing. Then location but it is a little bit different to be inside a casino; you have some built-in clientele. It's not like you're trying to do something in the middle of downtown, leasing a space and building from the ground up."

Photo from Marin Independent Journal.

Mina didn't treat his Detroit locations any differently than any of the other cities. "You have to look at them individually. Every Bourbon we do there's a core to the menu that's about 40% [of the menu]. Besides that it all goes by seasonality which is different everywhere, then we give the chef a little bit of flexibility on the menu to make changes which is dictated by the clientele which evolves over time as you get to know your clientele."

Which is definitely something they found true in the case of SaltWater. "We started out where we didn't really know how much high-end dining there would be. SaltWater was geared to be a high-end fish restaurant, but realistically with the economy the way it was, over time we've adjusted the style of food and brought the price point down considerably." Bourbon Steak also went through its own adjustments, such as adding a more affordable bar burger menu.

Mina might not be the most recognizable name or face in celebrity chefdom, but he is still the only celeb chef presence in Detroit with two high-end restaurants under his name, and he has absolutely no regrets about not being more in the limelight like some of his flashy culinary brethren. "I’m very fortunate: I’ve cooked for two presidents in the same week and have experienced things no one in the word has experienced, and it all came from cooking. I have a very methodical plan in my mind of how I like to be exposed." We may be seeing more of Mina in the media in the future, but for now at least we can enjoy his restaurants. 

[Real Detroit Weekly] Red Sauce

Photo by Nicole Rupersburg.

"We all know the big restaurant names inside the MGM Grand Detroit: the Wolfgang Puck Grille, Bourbon Steak, SaltWater, even Palette Dining Studio (the fancy buffet). But there's also Breeze Dining Court, and to assume that a "food court" is akin to high-volume/low-quality fast food joints would be a serious mistake: at Breeze, Chef Chris Sokolowski and his team certainly oversee a high-volume operation but do so with the same commitment to from-scratch items using quality products as you see throughout the rest of the property. Just, you know, wa-wa-wah-wayyyyy cheaper (for those of us whose champagne dreams and caviar fantasies don't come true after a night at the slots).

'Red Sauce is one of five restaurants inside Breeze that cater to a wide range of craveable flavors, from stir-fry to classic American grill (dressed up with Black Angus Beef and specialty relishes) to housemade desserts. While the name itself isn't new, the concept is: previously an Italian-themed restaurant, it was re-conceptualized as a Mexican eatery featuring a build-your-own burrito, nacho and taco bar in July..."

Read the rest of the article here.

Want to see more? Check out the Flickr set here.

July Supper Club at Iridescence

Foie gras peanut butter and jelly torchon at Iridescence

This is the one we’ve all been waiting for…on Wednesday, July 28 starting at 6:00PM, Supper Club will ascend to the top level of the Motor City Casino and revel in a feast for the eyes and mouth at the unrivaled Iridescence.

Iridescence is the only AAA four-diamond-rated restaurant in the city of Detroit. The décor is nothing short of stunning, with 60-ft windows offering a panoramic view of the city, plush ultra-chic furnishings, LED accent lighting, and a soaring ceiling, diners will feel as though they’ve been transported to one of the trendiest restaurants in Miami or Monte Carlo. The experience is heightened exponentially by Chef de Cuisine Derik Watson’s food – deconstructed comfort food classics gone couture. They also have a Wine Spectator award-winning wine list and an award-winning house pastry chef, Patricia Nash. This is TRULY world-class dining, and will make for an unforgettable experience.

First course
Onion Soup Gratin
~OR~
Cold Asparagus salad arugula fried duck egg, prosciutto, black truffle vinaigrette

Second Course
Confit of Chicken Pappardelle
Mushrooms, squash, parmesan cream
~Or~
Tomato-crusted Atlantic salmon
Vegetable succotash, yukon gold potato, pistou broth

Third course
Dessert,
Chef’s choice

Tickets are $40.00 in advance at the DSG store, http://shop.detroitsynergy.org/, and include tax and gratuity. Tickets to this event are available by online purchase only, and all purchases must be made by Tuesday, July 27.

Detroit Synergy is a 501(c) 3 non-profit organization. Its mission is to generate positive perceptions and opinions about Detroit by bringing together a diverse community and building upon the City's strengths and resources to realize a common vision for a greater Detroit. Please visit http://www.detroitsynergy.org/ for more information about the group.

If you want to see more, check out this video filmed for Do Detroit TV in which I got to interview Executive Chef Don Yamauchi and Chef de Cuisine Derik Watson.

Nikki Does Detroit: Restaurant Week Spring 2010 from doDetroit TV on Vimeo.

DRW Preview #5: Wolfgang Puck Grille

Wolfgang Puck Grille inside the MGM Grand Detroit consistently exceeds my expectations. On my first visit, when I had the chance to sit down with Executive Chef Marc Djozlija and chat about restaurants and Detroit and Detroit restaurants and Detroit people (thanks to the 2 degrees of Detroit we were fast friends), I went in with the poopy-poor attitude of it being a celebrity chef venture and so it will likely be lackluster at best. Like so many other self-important food snobs I sneered at the concept of the "celebrity chef" in general, and bristled at the mention of names like Emeril Lagasse and Rachel Ray. This was my perception walking in, before I met Marc, before I tasted the food.

Their Spicy Sashimi Grade Tuna Tartare was outstanding, better even than those I've had at high-profile fish markets and trendy seafood restaurants (though I won't name names...awkward pause). In fact, everything was outstanding, from the salad to the pork belly. The ambiance is warm and contemporary-rustic (if there can truly be such a thing), fine dining without a doubt but still friendly enough to appeal to casino-goers and pre- or post-game sports fans. And for those who (much like myself previously) have the stubborn perception that an eponymously-named celebrity chef family of restaurants would take the easy way out and order everything from Sysco, think again: everything at Wolfgang Puck Grille is made in-house, including the sauces, dressings, pastas, breads, and pastries. They also cure and smoke their own meats and sausage. And I can vouch for this--I've seen the kitchen(s) where everything is made and stored (one could easily get lost without a guide or map).

After speaking with Marc, seeing the facilities, and tasting the food, I now sing the praises of Wolfgang Puck Grille. You know what they say about making assumptions! (You do know, right?) And while I still get the occasional resistance from those who perceive the place to be too expensive to visit on a whim, I must also argue that point (they offer $29 prix fixe menus that are updated regularly throughout the year on Wednesdays, Thursdays and Sundays), and then counter with this: Detroit Restaurant Week ($27 all 10 days including the weekend; even better!). My fifth Restaurant Week preview dinner took me to here, where I got to see my new friend Marc, eat some fantastic food, and experience some of the most elaborate, attentive service I've seen in a LONG time.

As the courses were brought out to my dining partner and I, I swear I could hear the "Blue Danube" waltz playing. As two servers (one being General Manager Hicham Farabi) would walk up together and present us with a carefully orchestrated show of simultaneously placing our dishes on the table with expert timing, each dish was then carefully described in detail down to every last spice and peppercorn. Our waters were never empty more than a sip and I think I counted at least 8 different people attending to us. Make no mistake: if it is a fine dining experience you want, you can get it here. You can also just as easily order a burger and beer at the bar.

Our 8-course meal began with the Spring Asparagus Soup with toasted curry oil, crisp parsley, and creme fraiche. The soup was a thick, flavorful puree served hot in a warmed bowl. The flavor of the asparagus wasn't overpowering, and the toasted curry oil gave it a hint of spice and toasted nut flavor while the creme fraiche had a creamy cooling effect. Superb (and in a conversation with another foodie-chef the next day, this sentiment was seconded).

Next we had the Chopped Vegetable Salad with pine nuts, shaved feta cheese, and yogurt sauce. As Hicham explained, a chopped salad like this will typically have about 12-13 vegetables in it. I think I lost count but I do remember tomatoes, roasted red peppers, kalamata olives, beets...with the cheese and dressing it was actually very reminiscent of a Greek salad, but in a league all its own.

I have to be honest when I say that I had some trepidation trying the English Pea Ravioli. I greatly dislike anything pea-related so I thought this one wouldn't go over well for me. But the pea puree is mixed with mascarpone and goat cheeses inside the ravioli, then topped with braised pancetta and Parmigiano Reggiano. The verdict? Win! I could barely taste any of that horrid pea-flavor I so despise; for me, it was simply a plump, firm ravioli with lots of cheese. I'm so easy to please sometimes.

The entrees were served to us in platters all at once for us to split and share. After the three appetizers I was already getting full, but I certainly couldn't let any of this beautiful food go to waste and besides, it's my job. The Roasted Chicken Breast was served with honey-glazed carrots and garlic potato purée. Tender, juicy, and gorgeous.

The Sautéed Salmon was served with fingerling potatoes, confit bacon and a whole grain mustard sauce. Of the fish I most often encounter (and mind you I don't exactly eat carp), salmon tends to be the "fishiest" of all. Unlike tilapia which can be served with a light white wine citrus sauce, salmon needs a strong flavor to cut its own natural fishiness. As it turns out, whole grain mustard is just the man for the job. The mustard grain has its own sharp flavor, "hot" (though not like a chili pepper) and slightly astringent. This offsets the heavy flavor of the salmon, making it not quite so overpowering. Plus the crispy spice-rubbed skin was fantastic, lending a different dimension to boring old salmon.

The Grilled Rib Eye Steak with wild mushrooms, slightly sweet Cipollini onions and a full-bodied Armagnac sauce was perfectly pink and tender. The Armagnac sauce really highlighted the meat's natural flavors while adding more complexity to it.

Ah, but the Angel Hair Pasta with wild field mushrooms and white truffle oil was what got us most excited when perusing the menu before our visit, and with good reason: the mushrooms are soaked, saturated in butter until their own natural juices explode out, and what you're left with are big, meaty, juicy mushrooms and aromatic, rich truffle butter over a tender pasta. Not the prettiest dish but the best-tasting ones often aren't. This is heavy and is meal enough in itself. But wait...you still have dessert.

Well, first you have fries. I did anyway. And they were crispety, crunchety, peanut-oily (NOTE: I don't actually know if they use peanut oil in their fryer but I wouldn't be shocked to hear if it was, as these fries had the kind of flavor and crispness I've come to associate with said oil. Allergic-types may want to inquire.). Too bad I only had room for about 3 of them.

At this point I'm beyond full. I'm actually in pain. My stomach feels like it's been stretched out like the guy's in Se7en who represented "Gluttony" (ooooh...inappropriate?). I hurt. I anticipate an evening at the Opera afterwards during which time I will neither be able to pass gas nor scratch myself, and this concerns me. I've had 7 courses (unless you count the fries? Then it would be 8) and they were sooooo good and I can't possibly ingest another bite or I might actually run the risk of eating myself to the point of digestive arrest.

Then dessert came. New York Style Cheesecake with sable cookies and fresh berry compote. I have to at least try it. The cheesecake is creamy. Rich, and creamy. Not crumbly. Not cakey. But creamy. I can taste the cream cheese and sour cream. The silky smoothness. Cold. Did I say creamy? This is cheesecake like my mom made--now, my mom didn't make much but she sure did make one hell of a cheesecake; it's infamous in my family. Just one bite became just another. And another. Until I was scraping the last plump blueberry around the plate to make sure I didn't miss any creamy crumbs.

Still not sold on the celebrity chef concept? Wolfgang is the name but Marc is the game--he runs the kitchen, creates the menu, and has been doing so with the Wolfgang Puck brand for 17 years now, having opened each of the Grilles across the nation. While he's travelled extensively under the Puck-Man, working in Vegas, Atlantic City, and LA, he originally hails from Madison Heights and has finally, after nearly two decades, come home. Our Prodigal Son returned, and after being so desperate to leave so many years ago, he is happy he has come back and is truly excited about what he sees going on in the city--the great ideas and the great passion he sees in other chefs and restauranteurs.

Marc designed this DRW menu (as well as the year-round prix fixe menu) to wholly represent the restaurant while making the experience affordable. Portions are smaller which allow for a more concise package without skimping on the quality. It’s the same food that is offered on the regular menu, and still represents the Wolfgang Puck brand. “We want this to be a dining experience for people, more than just eating,” he told me. “If you live in Troy you could go to Ocean Prime, so why come here? We’re trying to do something great so this will be the obvious choice.”

Works for me. And eventually my digestive tract recovered. Totally worth it.

FIRST COURSE:
Spring Asparagus Soup
(Toasted curry oil and crisp parsley)
~or~
Chopped Vegetable Salad
(Pine nuts and shaved feta cheese)
~or~
English Pea Ravioli
(Braised pancetta and Parmigiano Reggiano)

SECOND COURSE:
Roasted Chicken Breast
(Honey glazed carrots and garlic potato purée)
~or~
Sautéed Salmon
(Fingerling potatoes, confit bacon
and whole grain mustard sauce)
~or~
Grilled Rib Eye Steak
(Wild mushrooms, Cipollini onions and Armagnac sauce)
~or~
Angel Hair Pasta
(Wild field mushrooms and white truffle oil)

THIRD COURSE:
New York Style Cheesecake
(Sable cookies and fresh berry compote)

Real Detroit Weekly: Wolfgang Puck Grille

I'm still reeling over that bottle of Latour.

"Wolfgang Puck Grille is one of four “Grilles” in the Wolfgang Puck family of restaurants. The premise of the Grille is to incorporate a little of everything from all of the Wolfgang Puck menu concepts under one roof. The end result is an establishment that caters as much to the clientele looking for a simple pizza and beer combo before a Red Wings game as it does to the wealthy business types looking for Prime Rib with a bottle of Chateau Lafite Bordeaux.

'You can tell a lot about a place by its wine list: and this one is carefully separated into “Old” and “New World” categorizations, heavy on the big name French and Californian producers and runs the full gamut of styles and price points in between. The cheapest bottle is a Pinot Gris from California at $32 — the most expensive, a bottle of 1982 Chateau Latour Bordeaux for $2450. (Realistically expect a midrange of $60-80.)..."

Read the rest of the review here.

Supper Club at Saltwater

Join Detroit Synergy’s Supper Club as we visit Detroit Free Press’s “Restaurant of the Year” for 2008: celebrity chef Michael Mina’s Saltwater inside the MGM Grand Detroit.

Saltwater is one of two Michael Mina restaurants located in the city of Detroit (Bourbon Steak, also inside MGM, being the other). Since debuting a little over two years ago, Saltwater has been lauded as one of the finest seafood restaurants in the metro area, offering a wide variety of fresh fish prepared with contemporary American refinement and exceptional attention to detail. This is less a classic fish market and more a full five-star opulent dining experience, focusing on the bounty of the sea for its elegant inspiration.

On Wednesday, February 24 beginning at 6:00PM, taste some of Saltwater’s seafood specialties with a special prix fixe menu designed just for Supper Club members at the low price of only $40.00 per person, including tax and gratuity. Only 40 seats are available: this event WILL sell out!

First Course

Ahi Tuna Tartar
Toasted pine nuts, ancho chile, sesame oil

Second Course

Dungeness Crab Agnolotti
Candied fennel, Maine shrimp

Third Course

Char-Grilled Loch Duart Salmon
Braised cabbage, hedgehog mushroom, mustard spätzle

Dessert

Key Lime Pie
Graham cracker, brown sugar meringue

Tickets are $40.00 in advance at the DSG store, http://shop.detroitsynergy.org, and include tax and gratuity. Tickets to this event are available by online purchase only, and all purchases must be made by the end of the day Tuesday, February 23rd.

Palette Dining Studio: It's Still a Buffet

I just love it when a restaurant has an anniversary (or, in this case, an entire casino complex)! 50% off is my middle name this week as I celebrate landmark anniversaries for both Opus One and MGM Grand Detroit! More on Opus One later (I look forward to cashing in on some $25 caviar tonight), but for now: Palette Dining Studio, take two.

They call themselves a "tapas-style" restaurant, but there really comes a time when you just need to call a buffet a buffet. If a heat source is needed to keep food items warm when they are prepared in the kitchen and brought out in large catering pans that are displayed on long counters with placards containing the names of said food items, it's a buffet.

As far as boo-fays go, Palette is be-yoo-tiful. With a thoroughly modern motif which echoes the look of the casino's other fine(r) dining establishments, Palette is certainly no Old Country. And at a regular price of $28.00 per diner, you can certainly expect main dishes a little more upscale than meatloaf.

Well, they did have meatloaf, but what I'm saying is that it's more than just meatloaf and mac & cheese. I mean, they have mac & cheese, but...oh, forget it.

Now through August 31st, diners can enjoy HALF OFF all buffet purchases (except for Wednesday nights, which is Alaskan crab leg night), excluding gratuity and alcohol purchases. This half-off special also applies to MGM's Breeze Dining Court and IGNITE Sushi Bar--which might not have the best sushi but the atmosphere is incomparable. All of this is in honor of MGM's 10th anniversary, so take advantage of the low prices while you can!

Truth be told, I wouldn't have bothered with a second trip to Palette if it weren't for the half off value. Is the upscale buffet dining experience worth $28.00? Hells no, but I'll pay $14.00 for it, sure.

The choices are varied enough: at the Asian "Far East" station, you have stir-fry, fried rice, gyoza, spring rolls, and select dishes like Kung Pao shrimp. "Fresh" gives you a selection of soups, salads, and breads--I tried the buffalo mozarella and the raspberry vinaigrette salads and was disappointed with both. The raisin sourdough bread--which you can get grilled over at the "Char" station--is great, though. Unfortunately for me, this is the station that once offered cheese tastes, but no more...sad face. "Char" is where all the meats are (as well as side fixin's like mac & cheese, mashed potatoes, and creamed spinach); expect bratwurst, BBQ ribs, BBQ chicken thighs, a prime rib carving station, beef brisket, pork chops, lamb chops, and more. "Sea" is the best of the bunch, with a spicy lobster pasta, a hearty seafood pot pie, tasty fried calamari, sushi, peel-and-eat shrimp, deep-fried shrimp, and those once-weekly crab legs with drawn butter (almost worth the extra $14.00).

And finally, "Indulge"--greedy gluttons will grab platefuls of each eye-catching confection...and feel shame as the Hindi server clears their mostly-uneaten plates with a look that says simply, "Wasteful Americans." Perhaps next time one shared plate would suffice.

While the desserts are the most visually tantalizing part of the Palette experience, don't be surprised when appearances prove to be deceiving. The gelato is okay, the pastries an imitation of Goldilocks with "This one's too rich" and "This one's too bland" (though I never did find the one that was "Just right"). You can also get made-to-order crepes, and I believe there is also the occasional chocolate fountain. The desserts look amazing, as do the intricate chocolate sculptures on display above them, but after a thorough taste test I found them mostly meh.

For real, that's chocolate

Like any buffet, the key is in the timing. If you're paying full price, make sure you have the time to wait as fresh dishes are brought out (instead of eating what's left in the bottom of the pan that has been sitting out for 30 minutes). Also, consistency isn't always the case: my friend grabbed some of the remaining beef brisket which looked lean and juicy, but when the next batch was brought out it was considerably more fatty. Expect other ticks natural to this style of large-batch buffet-cooking: the lamb was overcharred, the prime rib tough. But for now through August 31st, for $14.00, it's worth the price and the patience. The only thing this buffet is missing is pizza...because pizza makes things better.

New Chef at Iridescence

After all my gushing over Don Yamauchi after my trip to Forte, he went and did me one better: he took up residence at Detroit's hands-down best fine dining establishment, Iridescence inside Motor City Casino.

The fact that he decided to try out another casino restaurant after having what I understand to be a not-entirely good experience at MGM speaks volumes for what he must see as his opportunity at Iridescence. All I can say is: yespleaseyespleaseOMGyesplease!

Read the full press release below:

Chef Don Yamauchi has taken the reigns at Iridescence, a premiere dining destination located atop Detroit’s elegant MotorCity Casino Hotel. He brings with him a fresh take on upscale comfort-inspired foods presented in an unforgettable setting.

Yamauchi, a Chicago native, is a recipient of the James Beard Society’s Rising Chef award. He has been named among Food & Wine magazine’s Top 10 New Chefs in America. A graduate of the Culinary School of Kendall College in Evanston, Ill., Yamauchi understands the nuances of the Midwest dining scene. He built his career as a co-owner and executive chef at Le Francais in Wheeling, Ill., and has served as executive chef at such highly regarded metro Detroit venues as Forte, Saltwater, Bourbon Steak and Tribute.

Yamauchi, a Farmington resident, stands to take Iridescence to the next level with his innate understanding of Midwest sensibilities, French culinary training and Asian-inspired flavors. His menu re-envisions classic dishes, and elevates them to new heights.

“This isn’t your grandmother’s Chicken Pot Pie,” said Yamauchi describing a signature menu item. His preparation of the comfort food favorite involves a confit enriched by duck fat. His menu features appetizers like Crab Louie with avocado puree, Wagyu Beef Sliders, and entrées like Pan-Seared King Salmon with miso butter. His fresh upscale take on comfort foods places Iridescence in a new class, as a restaurant destined to be everyone’s first choice, from special events to a casual weeknight dinner.

While the experience is sure to be a memorable one – from the breathtaking views high atop Detroit’s MotorCity Casino Hotel to the extensive wine list, exquisite personalized service and inspired dishes – it is now a more accessible dining option.

Yamauchi understands the challenges of today’s economy for every family. The average entrée costs $25, and his adventurous tasting menus range from $35-$50. Iridescence remains dedicated to quality ingredients, artful presentation and refined service, as Yamauchi presents what he calls a “relaxed menu at relaxed prices.”

This marks a new beginning. Yamauchi will lead the MotorCity Casino Hotel culinary team overseeing all venues. Those restaurants include The Assembly Line Buffet, MotorCity Pit Stop, Flames and the Signature Lounge.

The Bar Burger at Bourbon Steak

Mmmmm-mmmm. That is a tasty burger.

The new Bar Burger at Michael Mina's Bourbon Steak was introduced about two and a half months ago as a way of attracting more customers into this pricey place during these times when people are less apt to drop a couple hundy on a meal (ignore the irony that the customers they are trying to attract are inside the MGM Grand Casino gambling their money away), and so far it has seen great success. According to our server, since introducing this new casual menu--available only in the bar and lounge areas--the restaurant has been progressively busier every single week. On this Tuesday night around 7:00PM, the dining room and bar were full and there was a wait at the front.

My friend and I decided to go here after previous dinner plans fell through. I said, "I just want a freakin' cheeseburger," and he said, "Oooh! We could go check out the Bar Burger at Bourbon Steak!" And so it was decided.

We sat down at the bar and were greeted warmly by the doorman and the bartender. I perused the wine list but, after spending several wonderful days in Michigan wine country, California reds at a 300% markup just weren't cutting it for me. I inquired about one of the beers on tap, from a brewery named "Avery" I had never heard of before. It was a Russian Imperial Stout called "The Czar" and I eagerly said yes (chuckling a little at the server's warning about the 10% alcohol content).

The beer was superb--creamy with heavy notes of espresso, chocolate, malted hops, and dark berries. I loved it. I loved all $11.00 of it.

Yep...this was just the beginning. To adequately tell this tale I need to start at the end: our total bill, for what was essentially two burgers, a shared order of fries, a beer and a well vodka drink was $56.18. If the idea was to attract more customers with the more casual fare, the target demographic is still those with deep pockets. (By comparison, for $5.50 at Lefty's Lounge I could have had a burger and a 22-oz draught beer and would probably have been equally as satisfied, not as far as quality per se, but at least as far as saving 30 bucks.)

We both ordered the all-beef burger, a blend of USDA Prime and American Kobe beef. Other choices include lamb, turkey, salmon, and falafel. Of the meats, none are less than $14.00. You can pick from a variety of accoutrements for your burger--the whole concept is a build-your-own burger bar with up to six add-ons. I chose farmhouse cheddar and Emmental Swiss, and also added on a side of Duck Fat Fries (a trio of differently-seasoned fries paired with three different sauces) for an extra $5.00.

The food came...after 30 minutes or so, anyway (our server admitted that they need more staff, and it was certainly no fault of his)...and yes, it WAS a tasty burger. Thick, tender, juicy, flavorful, perfectly cooked to my requested medium-well temperature and not at all charred. Despite the fact that I was getting full about halfway through, I forced myself to eat the whole thing because (a) I don't like leftovers and I would be damned if a single ounce of a 14-dollar burger wiould go to waste, and (b) if it's true what they say about red meat sitting in your colon for some seven or so years because of the body's difficulty in digesting it, then I wanted to make sure that thing would be keeping me company well into my thirties.

The fries were okay. Just okay. Being cooked in duck fat I was expecting something more, but no--they were just fries. Regular old uninteresting fries. The two seasoned samples I didn't care much for, nor did I care for the "Secret Sauce" or "Michael's BBQ" (or was it steak sauce? couldn't really tell). The unseasoned fries with the Onion Ketchup were tasty enough. But for 5 dollars I could buy enough fries from McDonald's to fill the trunk of my car, so I wasn't at all impressed.

We were fortunate enough to receive an accidental order of creamed spinach, which I admit was my first time ever trying spinach of the creamed variety, and it was surprisingly good. There were some bits of meaty bacon on top for added pizazz, but the bacon flavor permeates the dish and makes quite a compliment to the slightly bitter, creamy spinach. See, I can eat healthy--you just need to throw some bacon and dairy in there for me.

I nursed my 11-dollar beer and forcefed myself the 14-dollar burger and still felt a pang in my chest (though it could have been the burger) as I signed away $36.00 on a burger, beer, and fries, but yes...it was a tasty burger.

Was it worth $14.00? Possibly, but that still doesn't mean I wanted to spend that much. Besides, this isn't some high-falutin' Manhattan hotel, this is Detroit, where no one has jobs. Economically this "bar burger" doesn't seem to make much sense...but then again, the restaurant was packed, so what do I know?

Though on a different note I will say: love the decor.

A Light Dinner at Iridescence

Originally published in D-Tales here, edited and renamed for content. Visit the D-Tales blog for pictures.

...Now, let's talk about the first portion of the evening. Dinner at Iridescence. OMFG love that place, especially since they moved to the top of the hotel. The 40-foot ceilings and windows overlooking the city create a dramatic effect, and the lighting design and color schemes utilized throughout the restaurant make the environment as visually stunning as the food. Even though we failed to make reservations and the place was "fully committed" for the evening because of three different conferences all in town that weekend which had all the hotels booked up--apparently this was the busiest that Iridescence had been since they opened--and we had to dine in the bar area and were limited to the appetizer, tapas, and dessert menus, we still made the most of it.

From the tapas manu, we ordered the Goat Cheese Risotto Croquettes, with basil oil and a tomato puree, served with prosciutto. Risotto croquettes are great--it's what you do with risotto when it is no longer acceptable to serve but is still okay to eat. Just roll it into a ball, bread it, and deep-fry it. These particular deep-fried balls o'risotto goodness were also stuffed with goat cheese, and the strong flavor of the goat cheese was balanced well by the salty proscioutto and the unobstrusive risotto. The sauces complimented but were unnecessary; all the flavor this dish needed was in the croquettes and prosciutto. My friend ordered the garlic shrimp with potato puree and crispy leeks--I only tasted this, but what I tasted was a tender shrimp doused in heavily garlic-infused butter. Everything should be so doused.

From the appetizers, we tried the Habachi American Kobe Beef Tableside. It was served with three unremarkable sauces...again, the beef was really quite flavorful on its own and didn't need to be drowned in the overpowering garlic aioli, lobster aioli (though points for creativity there), and mustard (bleck). The presentation was...cute. Very fondue-style D.I.Y. The hibachi had cooled after about 5 minutes, so don't dawdle. I'd recommend they ditch the cutesy presentation there and focus on creating a dish in which the superior flavors of the Kobe beef (considered the best beef--the most flavorful, the most tender--in the world) can be highlighted; it seems a waste to have such a great menu item buried in its own presentation.

Presentation is, as always is the style with Iridescence, top-notch, as was the service in the very busy bar area. On top of three espresso martinis (had a craving), I then ordered the super-mega-ultra Iridescence Sampler Platter (at the urging of non-dessert-eating, sugar-shirking friend). You get a root beer float, an chocolate mousse layer cake, a chocolate-covered cheesecake, chocolate chip cookie sandwich, and warm chocolate custard offset with just a dash of strawberry sauce and raspberries. The display was impressive and the desserts tasty; what they lack in creativity they make up for in sheer volume. In the future, I'd recommend something else from the dessert menu, something which better showcases the patissier's style and skills. The rest of the dessert menu is full of unique and eclectic pairings which certainly deserve perusal.

But I still enjoyed the hell out of everything, because it's Iridescence, and Iridescence is amazing. It's worth a trip just for the decor alone...even the bathrooms are impressive. My friend was very apologetic that we didn't get to have a "full dinner," but this was just as good and just as enjoyable. One day...one day...I will try the 13-course Degustation menu. One day.

Palette Dining Studio: It's a Buffet

There is much excitement surrounding Detroit's new high-end restaurants that just opened in the new MGM Hotel & Casino--Wolfgang Puck (who has never really impressed me but still carries a certain amount of cache I am happy to see in Detroit) and Michael Mina both have brand-new ventures inside the casino, and judging from an early preview of the menus these places are going to quickly be ranked in the upper echelon of Detroit dining.

On Friday night, we decided to be adventurous and try out one of these new venues, only to be met with a chorus of "Sorry, we are fully committed for the evening."

Well, that's partially a lie. The Wolfgang Puck restaurant told us they stop serving dinner at 10:30. When we got there, it was 10:20. Sweetheart, I shouldn't need to tell you this because this is common industry practice--if your restaurant closes at 10:30, this means you must seat people until then, and serve them their full meals until they are satisfied. This is understood across the board, and BELIEVE YOU ME when I do finally have the chance to enjoy a meal there a mention of such poor customer service on opening weekend WILL be noted in the review. Walking by, there were plenty of open tables we could have been sat at. In a larger city, such behavior from a hostess on opening weekend would have torpedoed the restaurant's credibility. But this is Detroit, where folks don't know better.

But I digress.

At this point, we're just plain hungry, so we decide to check out the still-open and not "fully committed for the evening" new "dining studio," Palette. Now, Palette was described in all preemptive press as being a "tapas" buffet. Tapas makes me presume that an ecelectic selection of "small plates" will be offered, buffet-style, but not in the classic nature of a buffet.

Wrong, wrong, wrong. It's a buffet, people. A pretty standard, albeit higher quality, meat-seafood-stirfry-salad-and-dessert buffet. There was nothing "tapas" about it. Granted, the offerings far exceed what most buffets have to offer--grilled lamb chops, split crab legs soaked in butter, Oysters Rockefeller, marinated prosciutto, Manchego cheese, chicken parmesan in a stellar parmesan cream sauce, and a dessert station with a chocolate fountain, made-to-order crepes, and an assortment of fresh gelatto along with artfully presented bit-sized pastries all combine to make this buffet something that far exceeds the "Old Country" understanding of the word. Yes, this is a buffet worthy of Vegas (all those stories you hear about the grandeur of the Vegas buffets in the high-end casinos? They're all true.), though not quite so large in scale or diverse in offerings.

But make no mistake--this is a buffet, people. Don't let the promise of tapas make you think you're getting something more than you paid for. And at $26.00 per person, you'd better stay for a few hours and gorge yourself to the point of pain to really get your money's worth.

And they don't even have a bathroom inside. Tsk, tsk.

Palette Dining Studio, inside the new MGM Hotel & Casino
1-888-MGM-DETR

Iridescence: Just Make a Left at the Buffet Line

Iridescence, inside the Motor City Casino, is one of the more-highly-ranked fine dining establishments in the city of Detroit. A “AAA-Four Diamond Award” restaurant and recipient of the 2007 Wine Spectator Award of Excellence, Iridescence has largely flown under the radar with the locals. While local foodies love to drop names like Opus One, The Whitney, and (God help me for saying it) Mario’s, Iridescence has succeeded in remaining something of a secret.

Perhaps it’s because of its location. This isn’t Vegas, it’s the D, and here we don’t necessarily equate top-tier dining with a casino-based location (currently The Alley Grille in the Greektown Casino is the only other example of our casinos attempting to break into the fine dining market; MGM currently has plans in the works to introduce its own high-end establishments). So perhaps diners are initially biased against it because of its affiliation with the casino. (I would love to see how that kind of mentality would do in Las Vegas, where world-renowned chefs such as Alain Ducasse; Thomas Keller—whose Bouchon is considered one of the top restaurants in the country; and Takashi Yagihashi, formerly of Michigan’s own Tribute in Farmington Hills, are opening up highly acclaimed restaurants all located within casino walls that are successfully putting Las Vegas on the map as one of the epicenters of fine dining in the country, second only to New York and L.A.)

It might also have to do with the restaurant’s location within the casino itself. This is a 4-star restaurant that patrons arrive at only by walking past a series of buffets and a food court. Perhaps not the best impression for a person to have when entering the restaurant to enjoy a fine meal, though immediately forgettable upon entrance. (Word has it that once the hotel tower is complete, the restaurant will be relocated to the top floor—a very smart move on their part, I think. Plus the view will be amazing, provided the restaurant will be facing downtown.)

Iridescence is a quiet oasis amidst the raucousness of the casino floor. A large, open dining space filled with plush half-moon booths and mahogany tables with modern wingback chairs, Iridescence offers diners a very comfortable environment with a soothing ambiance to dine in. Other decorative accents include single peach roses on each table, and glass sculptures lit from underneath with color-changing L.E.D. lights. What they lack in location they certainly make up for in atmosphere.

And then there is the food. Iridescence has a nice mix of offerings on their menu, but they are at heart a steakhouse. Serving only the highest grade of beef, U.S.D.A. prime corn-fed, and serving every cut of beef with a rich cognac sauce, Iridescence has certainly “steaked” its claim to a high-end chophouse (despite offering only 4 different cuts). But unlike many other chophouses where the focus is all beef all the time, Iridescence offers diners a number of different well-thought-out alternatives to King Cow.

You’ll begin your meal with the standard bread course, though there is nothing standard about these breads. Jalapeño cornbread, sourdough raisin bread, crispy fried breadsticks, and large wafery-crackers that tasted like fried wonton, all served with a partitioned plate of dipping choices—olive oil with balsamic vinegar, a roasted olive tapenade, unsalted sweet cream butter and butter infused with parmesan (cheese! I love cheese!). Next you’ll receive your amuse-bouche (“happy mouth”), a small bite prepared by the chef to stimulate your palette before you begin your meal. Our amuse-bouche was a smoked salmon tartare with a spinach chip, a combination of flavors that worked well though the salmon was perhaps a bit too rich to simply warm your palette.

For the first course, there is a wide variety of options to choose, from Asian-inspired protein dishes to straightforward seafood. We sampled the Spicy Beef-Filled Asian Straws, served with ponzu dipping sauce and a drizzle sesame sauce. These “Asian Straws,” which are basically longer, thinner versions of a beef spring roll, were very flavorful without being overly spicy, and the accompanying sauces went far to enhance the flavor without drowning it (though I will note, the “ponzu” sauce both tasted like and had the consistency of peanut sauce, with perhaps only a hint of the citrusy flavor real ponzu is used for). The second course is strictly salads, which for the most part exhibit fairly common combinations, though the Spring Vegetable Salad with shaved carrot, parsnip, fennel, and celery root with a blood orange vinaigrette and golden beet chips offers a road-less-traveled combination of ingredients, perfect for those who like to go a little more adventurous with their greens.

At this point diners will take another small break in their meal to enjoy a palate cleanser, which is not something that you will typically find in most fine-dining establishments, and is likely extremely rare to see in a steakhouse. We were presented with a Chardonnay gelée in a short champagne flute, with a single large, plump raspberry suspended within. The gelée was phenomenal, capturing the effervescent tartness of what was surely a crisp, clean Chardonnay, likely not aged in oak and absent the buttery heaviness that characterizes so many Chardonnays. The ripe raspberry was a perfect compliment to the gelée, providing an extra measure of tart sweetness to the cleansing quality of this interlude.

For those of you who choose to opt out of steak for your entrée, Iridescence certainly has a selection that will suit your tastebuds in lieu of tenderloin. They do offer a 10-oz. Jumbo Western Australian Lobster Tail, which looks impressive but due to its size and the difficulty in cooking a lobster tail that large, it is more than likely to be a bit tough and rubbery, despite how much vanilla butter you might slather on it—therefore, I recommend you stray from ordering this. The simple Beef Short Ribs “Rossini” offers a classic combination of flavors with a slightly more refined twist: braised beef rib au jus atop a pile of garlic mashed potatoes with a delicate piece of foie gras and a brioche crouton on top. Pity the people of Chicago who can no longer experience foie gras (something about animal cruelty, blah blah), because this small slice of goose liver is explosive with flavor, and adds a prominent kick to the already flavorful and juicy short ribs. The Halibut is also a nice substitute for steak, served atop a bed of prosciutto with chick peas, fried lemon, and chilled virgin olive oil cream. The halibut itself was nicely seasoned with a flavorful crust of spices, and was firm yet moist on the inside, having been perfectly prepared. The halibut paired extremely well with the salty, rich prosciutto, and the occasional hint of lemon was welcomed. Be sure to cast the actual fried lemon itself off to the side, lest you enjoy what tastes like a mouthful of Pledge. The chilled virgin olive oil cream, though interesting, was completely unnecessary to the dish. Served as almost a scoop of ice cream on top of the halibut, the cream, which was mostly solid, melted off the fish and plopped to the side of the plate, where it stayed for the duration of my meal. I tried incorporating it into the dish, but found that the flavor of the cream itself was, well, just cream, and in no way added to or complimented the other flavors on the plate. So there was a big goopy melty mess on my plate for really no good reason. Dear Chef: In the future, this is a great dish, but leave the ice cream scoop to the desserts.

And ah, the desserts. Iridescence has long been touted as having the best desserts in the Metro Detroit area. And though I personally might not make a claim for “best,” I would certainly argue that they offer a fantastic selection of unique and classic cakes and confections.. Crème brûlée is prepared in the traditional way and served with fresh fruit and a sable cookie; raspberry crêpes are prepared tableside and served with vanilla-scented ice cream. Their signature dessert is a Bolivian chocolate mousse, and they offer a trio of house-made sorbets on a brandy snap tuille with fresh fruit. In the face of all of these tempting creations, we opted for the MotorCity Casino “Meltdown” (a classic chocolate lava cake with raspberry sauce and house-made praline ice cream) and the soufflé of the evening—strawberry. The “Meltdown” was terrific, as lava cake usually is, this one being no exception. The raspberry sauce was strong and needed to be sampled in small amounts to compliment the rich dark chocolate liquid center. The soufflé was divine; light, fluffy, with just the right amount of crispiness to the outer edges and a rich liquid filling of smooth strawberry sauce. I had my hesitation about ordering any soufflé that didn’t have chocolate or coffee flavors featured, but this light and airy strawberry creation was a perfect summertime end note.

And then there is the award-winning wine list, full of remarkably priced finds (notably a 1998 Penfolds Grange Shiraz for $280, which could just as easily be listed at $400). The usual concentration of California is here, though several hidden gems from South America, Italy, and Spain are notable picks (Scala Dei Priorat comes to mind). As mentioned, ’98 Grange is less than $300, ’98 Ornellaia is $170, and recent vintages of Tignanello are priced below $100. This is sticker shock in its best form; an opportunity to indulge in break-the-bank wines by merely bruising the bank instead (an added benefit after having to shed the stink of curly fries and Philly Steaks upon entering).

One thing I have not yet addressed is service, which for me in terms of overall dining experience is just as significant as the food. I have refrained from discussing the service up to this point because I would like to believe that the service we received is not in any way indicative of the service in general at Iridescence, but is really just the fault of one server. Due to an extremely overcrowded parking structure, we did not arrive to the restaurant until about 10:30—still ample time before they closed, however, with plenty of other patrons in the dining area. Our server was very polite throughout, though he clearly was not at all interested in establishing any kind of rapport, arriving simply to take our orders and deliver our plates. We could not help but feel as though we were being rushed, with each course being brought out on the heels of the one before it, with hardly any regard for timing or pacing. Another part of the reason why I hesitated in ordering the soufflé was because I knew full well how long that takes to prepare (at least 20 minutes), and at that point the server had made it pretty clear that he wanted to get us the hell out. I decided “Screw it, it’s my night too,” and ordered the soufflé. The server concealed his chagrin rather well, never losing the smile on his face as he noted, “You know that will take a little while to prepare?” Wouldn’t you know, we did not see this server for the rest of the evening, and were left in the care of the remaining bussers and food runners who twice tried to take away my soufflé before I was done eating. Again, I am willing to give the establishment the benefit of the doubt on this one, being aware as I am of the time and of our particular server’s anxiousness to leave. I do not count this as a strike against the restaurant, but I will say to those of you reading this: try to get there before 9:00.

Overall, the experience at Iridescence is a good one, with a nice selection of uniquely constructed dishes and a variety of tastes for patrons to enjoy. The wine list is superb and the atmosphere soothing. I personally think their relocation will do wonders for them, but as it stands right now, I would certainly continue to rank Iridescence on the short list of top restaurants in Detroit.

Iridescence, inside The MotorCity Casino. 2901 Grand River Ave., Detroit. 313.237.6732
Prices: Appetizers/salads: $6.00-$17.00, Entrees: $29.00-$64.00, Desserts: $8.00-$12.00
Hours: Tuesday-Sunday, 5:00PM-midnight