[Concentrate] A delicious homecoming: Takashi Yagihashi returns to Michigan with Slurping Turtle

Takashi Yagihashi at Slurping Turtle. Photo by Doug Coombe.

Metro Detroit has been slow to take up the noodle trend that has been dominating the trendy food scene of major cities all over the world for nearly a decade now. While casual Asian take-out eateries in strip malls are never in short supply, especially in cities with larger ethnic Asian populations like Novi and Canton and, a little further east and a little less glamorous, Madison Heights, the metro area's core – Detroit – was noticeably absent the kind of upscale and/or late-night noodle shop found in abundance in places like Chicago and Toronto (and still is, if you consider that the places now just recently serving this kind of food – Rock City Eatery, Katoi, and Johnny Noodle King – are all helmed by non-Asians).

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Ode to Tribute

My, how the mighty hath fallen...

On the night of Tuesday, September 29th, Tribute in Farmington Hills served their final meals and closed their doors.

I am devastated. DEVASTATED.

Tribute was full of fond memories for me. During the days of my residence in West Bloomfield (when I lived like a West Bloomfield-er, ooooooh those were the days), Tribute was the special occasion restaurant de rigueur; it became the place of my annual celebration of the anniversary of birth with my long-term partner of the time. It was my first truly FINE dining experience, the defining moment when I started paying attention to chef's names and backgrounds and following them like a Grateful Dead fan. (My first visit there was during the reign of the inimitable Takashi Yagahashi whose food is pure art, followed later by my discovery of Takashi's replacement, Don Yamauchi.)

This was where I first discovered what 5-star-dining truly meant (trips to the Golden Mushroom at age 17 and the Whitney at 18 were profoundly lost on me at the time), and where I learned to fully embrace it. And also where I learned that I really, really like game meat. Like bunny rabbit. Nom nom nom.

Many long hours (and many hundreds and possibly probably dare I say thousands) of dollars were spent there enjoying the finest of life's gourmet pleasures. (In fact, hearsay is that the reason for the closure was ultimately their refusal to follow the restaurant recession trend and lower prices.) My favorite memory was of my 25th birthday--my significant other had rented a limo with champagne, and had set up with Tribute's management team to have two dozen roses set on the table along with a bottle of Château Certan de May de Certan from my birth year, 1981, presented upon our arrival. (A gift from a very generous businessperson and friend.)

That night included lobster, foie gras, and a huge slab of Kobe beef, as well as a cheeseplate (DUH) for me, a flourless chocolate cake with "Happy Birthday" written out in chocolate on the plate, and not one but TWO "eggs."

Ah, the egg. The single greatest confectionery contribution ever made. Served in an actual egg shell, the filling was something akin to creme brulee custard with sea salt, caramel, a hint of milk chocolate...words cannot describe it. You know I am not much of a sweets person, but this was truly like a thousand angels dancing on my tounge. And I got TWO!

Oooh, the memories. Kevin. Antoine. And Rick from way before. Those were good times, guys. Best of luck to you all. Hanging out with the staff in the bar and doing tequila shots with them after we had been there for 5 hours and everyone other customer had left are among my favorite memories of the place.

Sure, maybe my memories of Tribute also happen to be fond memories of my being absolutely spoiled...don't you judge me, you don't know me.

This was a magnificent restaurant in its prime, nationally recognized and several-time award-winning, including a James Beard "Best Chef Midwest" award for Takashi.

In recent years, Tribute has undergone many transformations. After Yamauchi left and Executive Chef Rich Travis took over, I understand that the place lost some of its culinary edge. I regrettably have not been back since that landmark 25th birthday dinner and have since that time discovered countless more restaurants to rave about, but the closing of Tribute truly signifies the end of an era for metro Detroit's fine dining. Only time will tell the shape of things to come, but I can guarantee nothing will ever be the egg again.

Tribute will continue operating for private parties and catering and will also be fulfilling all of their financial obligations. Because they have class, and that's what businesses with class do.

'Tis better to have loved and lost, as they say. But still. But still...

New Italian Restaurant to Open in Birmingham

The people behind the successful Chen Chow Brasserie will be opening a second venture in Birmingham in the spring, a noveau Italian place to occupy the space once claimed by City Cellar--which in itself was a fabulous place before it suffered the fate of the Blue Martini downstairs and got shut down along with it (guilt by association; same owners).

If they take the same recipe which made Chen Chow a hit--simple yet elegant food in a posh atmosphere perfectly suited to Birmingham--this new venture in a cuisine style sorely lacking in that corner of the O.C. (save for Bacco in Southfield, which is a bit more than a stone's throw from B-ham) already has built-in success.

In related news, Zoran--the host with the most who, much like most other people steeped in the restaurant industry, has made the full circuit of area restaurants and most recently came from MGM and Zinc--is the maître d' of Chen Chow now. Likewise, Tribute's former bar manager Kevin has taken a position there and will be taking over the new Italian place once it opens.

Speaking of Tribute, much has changed in the few years since I was a regular. Executive Chef Don Yamauchi has left, but has stayed within the Epoch Restaurant Group and has taken over Forte in Birmingham. New Executive Chef Rich Travis has taken Tribute's former highly avant-garde culinary concepts and "Americanized" them a bit...this makes me a little more than nervous for the fate of my former favorite restaurant, but I'll let you know what I think once I revisit. "Americanized," though...never a good thing to say...

Diamonds: Not Just for Girls Anymore

Originally published in D-Tales here.

Did you know we have no fewer than seven AAA-rated four-diamond restaurants in the area?

Of course you didn't. Well, we do. I've noted previously that Iridescence is Detroit's only four-diamond restaurant, but there are six more in the immediate metro area which also deserve some attention.

Every year the American Automotive Association grants the prestigious Four-Diamond Award to America's leading restaurants, an honor only about 3% of AAA's 60,000 rated restaurants receive.

So what other restaurants here make the cut?

The Grill. Because a rose by any other name would surely smell as sweet. The simply-named Grill at the Ritz Carlton in Dearborn needs no further finesse of naming convention to be one of the top restaurants in the country. I mean...it's the Ritz Carlton, fer chrissakes. I've visited the Grill a couple of times--once for a dinner that I don't quite remember but I do know was (a) amazing and (b) expensive, and another time for the most decadent Sunday brunch I've seen in Michigan. It doesn't need a lot of bells and whistles. It's the Grill. In the Ritz Carlton. That's all you need to know.

Il Posto Ristorante. Authentic right down to the waiters' B.O. Il Posto in Southfield is hands-down the most authentic, old-world Italian restaurant, cut from the classic mold of customer service as the highest priority and taking great pride in the art of dining. Much like being in a family-owned world-renowned restaurant in Tuscany (Osteria di Rendola in the hills of Chianti is my closest comparison), the greatest emphasis is placed on quality of ingredients, creativity and expert preparation of dishes, presentation, and service. One table will typically see nine or so servers bustling about, refolding your napkin, wiping crumbs off your table, filling your water, and generally just making sure you are absolutely satisfied with every element of your dining experience. Oh, and did I mention the food is equally as amazing? Sorry to let my snobbery show through here, but if you've never been to Italy, you've never experienced anything quite like this. If you even try to make comparisions to the Bravo! Cucina Italiana or Johnny Carino's, I will punch you in the face.

Iridescence. Just go already, would you? From ambiance to presentation to the artful adventureousness of the menu, Iridescence beats all. I fell in love with it back when the restaurant was located in the bowels of the casino, past all the janky junk food joints and casino cafeterias. Now that they're located on the top of the Motor City Casino Hotel tower with a breathtaking view of the city and with some of the most impressive and daring interiors you're likely to see (the architectural lighting is better than most nightclubs), Iridescence makes other dining experiences pale in comparison. Literally and figuratively.

The Lark (West Bloomfield). You know...not as impressive as you think it would be. Yes, it nails the whole French-countryside standard of service and food preparations, and yes, their Rack of Lamb Genghis Khan is infamous and is served with its own number charting how many have been served since they started the numbering (over 70,000), and yes, their wine list is indeed The Wine Bible, and yesssss, the service is expertly attentive, the service carts are cute, and the extremely limited seating guarantees much personal attention and an always-full house, but...the food? I mean, for all the buzz? Meh.

Ristorante Cafe Cortina. All that time I lived in West Bloomfield, regularly driving through Farmington Hills, and I barely took notice of this place, much less thought to myself, "I should go there sometime." Apparently they're known for their fresh pastas, so much so that they were highlighted on the Food Network in 2006 as one of the best pasta places in the States. I want to punch myself in the face for having missed it all this time.

Rugby Grille. Another understated name for another top-tier restaurant located inside a world-class hotel recognized for its excellence in service and high standards of luxury and European excellence--the Townsend Hotel in Birmingham. I sadly admit that this is another restaurant I've not been to...it's at times like this I miss my fuckass ex who, despite being a fuckass, knew how to dine well and always took me out to such places. Now with my limited personal means (I got my punch in the face from the struggling economy last year and have been barely treading water since) and lack of boyfriend my exposure to such things has been severely limited, save for the generosity of my gay friends who will occasionally take me out to such nice places...but then find boyfriends and go with them instead. *Sigh* Me wanna go here...it's so pretty and old-world-y and snobby and fabulous...probably not as pretty and old-world-y and snobby and fabulous as the Russian Tea Room, which is the pinnacle of pretty old-world-y snobby fabulousness, but the best we're going to get here in Michigan.

Tribute Restaurant. I know I've spoke of it in passing before. But since I have not actually been there since I launched this blog, there have been no dedicated gushy foodie posts for Tribute Restaurant in Farmington Hills. But this...this is my favorite dining establishment in the world. It's now changed executive chef hands a third time since they opened and I haven't been there since, but I doubt the essence of its personalized service, chic atmosphere, and experimental avant-garde menu items (not to mention a quite welcoming, knowledgable, and friendly staff--espeically if you stick around after-hours and drink with them) have changed much. It used to be a yearly tradition--every year my birthday would mean a decadent dinner at Tribute, which would always end with the Egg: most orgasmic explosion of flavors you'll ever experience. Words cannot begin to describe it. It is the dessert of the gods. Chocolate creme brulée, salted caramel...I...I just can't describe it. It's incredible. A typical meal there will see me gorging on foie gras, Kobe beef, a generous plateau de fromage full of imported creamy French and tangy Italian cheeses, some kind of wild game meat, and a chocolate souffle. Ah, I miss this place. I miss Kevin and Antoinne. Damnit, now I'm depressed. I'll punch you all in the face. Now open for lunch.

Well. Now that I'm awash in memories of a very, very different time in my life, I'll bid you all adieu and happy dining while I go find a corner to wallow in my many financial and romantic failures, thanks.

In the face.