[HOT LIST] Mother's Day brunch

Brunch at Beverly Hills Grill. Photo by Nicole Rupersburg. 

Easter brunch is pretty much a practice run for Mother's Day brunch. If the way to a man's heart is through his stomach, the way to mom's heart is through fancy brunch buffets and prix fixe menus. The more she raves about how nice the place is and how you're spending too much money on her, the more you win. Here are some of metro Detroit's best for Mother's Day brunch!

[EID Feature] A Conversation with Wolfgang Puck

He's been called "The Greatest Chef in the World." In contemporary culture, the name Wolfgang Puck is as familiar a household name as Tom Cruise and Barack Obama. He has had a long, illustrious career working in the finest restaurants in Paris and Monaco, before moving to America and eventually becoming the world's first true celebrity chef. His flagship restaurant Spago opened 30 years ago this year in West Hollywood (Spago Beverly Hills opened in 1997); it has been awarded Michelin stars, received a James Beard Award for Outstanding Service, and is in the Fine Dining Hall of Fame.

From the very beginning, Puck has been at the forefront of every major food trend that has spread to the masses: artisan pizza, farm-to-table dining, Asian fusion -- Puck, Puck, Puck. Puck has parlayed his fame in the kitchen to fame on the screen: he has had guest appearances on prime time shows like Frasier and Las Vegas; he's had his own show and plenty of cameos on the Food Network; he has won a Daytime Emmy Award for the show Wolfgang Puck. The man has done everything.

I had the chance to sit down with Mr. Puck earlier this week for an interview for the upcoming issue of Ambassador Magazine. He was in town hosting a big dinner at his restaurant inside the MGM Grand Detroit for the North American International Auto Show. I had free rein to ask him whatever I wanted ... but what the hell do you ask someone like Wolfgang Puck? After asking some of the more obligatory "what are your favorite places in Detroit" questions, I decided to ask the questions I was most interested in hearing the answers to ... I mean, when's the next time I'm going to get to sit down with Wolfgang Puck and ask him about his life, right?

What I found was a man with incredible insight into the last three decades of evolving American food culture, the very man who more or less spearheaded the movement and brought a whole new awareness of food to the average American table. I found a man who laughs at the cockiness and follies of his youth. A man from very humble beginnings who was told by everyone that he would never amount to anything. A man who once contemplated suicide.

The following are excerpts from our hour-long conversation. Other portions of the interview not included here will be in the spring issue of Ambassador.

[HOT LIST] NAIAS Charity Preview

Joe Muer Seafood Piano Bar. Photo from Joe Muer Seafood.

Stay classy, Detroit. The North American International Auto Show Charity Preview - being held this year on Friday, January 13 - is the swankiest night of the year. Metro Detroiters young and old (and, at $250 a head, also probably rich, or at least "doing well") get all gussied up in their fineries and hit the town for what ends up being a sloppy drunken sh*tshow, but a sloppy drunken sh*tshow in really, really nice clothes. The NAIAS Charity Preview has less to do with the cars than the clothes; this is all about the faces, fashion, and - inevitably - the food. Well, drink. But also food. This is a night to feel all shiny and special, so here's some of the shiniest, most special places to party after the show (or in lieu of it).

#1 The Rattlesnake Club, Detroit
The Rattlesnake Club has really been coming back into its glorious own recently, with revamped menus, a revamped interior, and a soon-to-launch revamped happy hour. For the NAIAS Charity Preview, they'll be offering a prix fixe menu and will play host to a restaurant full of VIPs. It will all start with a plethora of hors d'oervres at each table; Marketing Director Alexandria Franz says "everyone basically gets their own raw bar and several different hot hors d’eovures too. It’s somewhat of a spectacle!" And that's just the precursor to the sumptuous dinner that follows. They're almost sold out for the evening, so make your reservations now: 313-567-4400.

#2 Wolfgang Puck Grille, Detroit
Yours truly just interviewed Mr. Puck for Ambassador Magazine, and in addition to talking about food, I also discovered that he is also quite the car buff. Before moving to America at age 25, he thought everyone here was rich because they all drove around in big Cadillacs. He wanted desperately to own one himself one day ... he achieved that, and then some. He's in town right now for the NAIAS; you might be able to spot him at his restaurant inside the MGM Grand Detroit, but even if not, Executive Chef Marc Djozlija will be serving up the same stellar cuisine that has made this one of Detroit's few AAA four-diamond-rated restaurants.

This pretty much sums it up. From StyleLine Magazine.

#3 Joe Muer Seafood, Detroit
One of the splashiest restaurant openings of 2011, Joe Muer Seafood inside the Renaissance Center is offering a five-course prix fixe menu for $100 per person. Or skip dinner and grab a drink in the retro-nostalgic Joe Muer Lounge, the swingin' Piano Bar, or have a bite at the sleek blue granite sushi bar.

#4 Bacco Ristorante, Southfield
James Beard Award nominee Luciano del Signore, owner and Executive Chef of Bacco Ristorante in Southfield, has been regularly playing host to the richest and most famous-est of metro Detroit in this fine dining flagship since 2002. Enjoy his signature nouveau Italian cuisine in a colorful, contemporary atmosphere reminiscent of the Italian countryside in the summertime (even in the midst of a Michigan winter). There's no special menu for the NAIAS, but there doesn't need to be.

#5 Motor City Wine, Detroit
It might not be the first place that comes to mind for a swank Auto Show after-party, but one look at the dramatic red walls lined with an eclectic selection of boutique wines paired with the funky jazz sounds of the B. Williams Experiment and you'll know there ain't no party like an MCW party. The B. Williams Experiment is led by the Grammy-nominated Brandon Williams on drums (who has produced for Janet Jackson and Rihanna). Influences range from Coltrane to Radiohead to J. Dilla; feel like a boss for only $5.

Bubbling under DUO Restaurant and Lounge (Southfield), Mosaic (Detroit), Cliff Bell's (Detroit), Angelina Italian Bistro (Detroit), Coach Insignia (Detroit), 24grille (Detroit), Roast (Detroit), Detroit Seafood Market (Detroit), Chen Chow (Birmingham)

[Real Detroit Weekly] Wolfgang Puck Grille

Sauteed Alaskan Halibut. Photo by Nicole Rupersburg.

There is no doubt that "foodie culture" has gripped the nation with the kind of obsessive, feverish madness reminiscent of family fallout shelters in the '60s and the Great Bottled Water Rush of Y2K. This has led to the rise of the Food Network and the celebrity chef (an exquisite irony for most of these so-called "celebs," who started their careers when the idea of being an American chef in America was a joke – much like looking classy while smoking, it was something only Europeans could really pull off). Any major city you visit now – Chicago, New York, Las Vegas, L.A. – is populated by an ever-increasing number of celebrity chef ventures.

Chicago has Rick Bayless, Grant Achatz and Charlie Trotter (and a few DOZEN others). In Detroit, we have Michael Symon, Michael Mina and Wolfgang Puck.

But the real celebrity at the Wolfgang Puck Grille inside the MGM Grand Detroit is not Mr. Puck himself. It's Executive Chef Marc Djozlija, who has worked for Puck for nearly two decades and has opened all of the eponymous Grilles. Lucky for us, Djozlija has stuck around for awhile, and the Detroit dining scene is all the better for it.

Read the rest of the article here.

Want to see more? Check out the Flickr set here.

DRW Preview #5: Wolfgang Puck Grille

Wolfgang Puck Grille inside the MGM Grand Detroit consistently exceeds my expectations. On my first visit, when I had the chance to sit down with Executive Chef Marc Djozlija and chat about restaurants and Detroit and Detroit restaurants and Detroit people (thanks to the 2 degrees of Detroit we were fast friends), I went in with the poopy-poor attitude of it being a celebrity chef venture and so it will likely be lackluster at best. Like so many other self-important food snobs I sneered at the concept of the "celebrity chef" in general, and bristled at the mention of names like Emeril Lagasse and Rachel Ray. This was my perception walking in, before I met Marc, before I tasted the food.

Their Spicy Sashimi Grade Tuna Tartare was outstanding, better even than those I've had at high-profile fish markets and trendy seafood restaurants (though I won't name names...awkward pause). In fact, everything was outstanding, from the salad to the pork belly. The ambiance is warm and contemporary-rustic (if there can truly be such a thing), fine dining without a doubt but still friendly enough to appeal to casino-goers and pre- or post-game sports fans. And for those who (much like myself previously) have the stubborn perception that an eponymously-named celebrity chef family of restaurants would take the easy way out and order everything from Sysco, think again: everything at Wolfgang Puck Grille is made in-house, including the sauces, dressings, pastas, breads, and pastries. They also cure and smoke their own meats and sausage. And I can vouch for this--I've seen the kitchen(s) where everything is made and stored (one could easily get lost without a guide or map).

After speaking with Marc, seeing the facilities, and tasting the food, I now sing the praises of Wolfgang Puck Grille. You know what they say about making assumptions! (You do know, right?) And while I still get the occasional resistance from those who perceive the place to be too expensive to visit on a whim, I must also argue that point (they offer $29 prix fixe menus that are updated regularly throughout the year on Wednesdays, Thursdays and Sundays), and then counter with this: Detroit Restaurant Week ($27 all 10 days including the weekend; even better!). My fifth Restaurant Week preview dinner took me to here, where I got to see my new friend Marc, eat some fantastic food, and experience some of the most elaborate, attentive service I've seen in a LONG time.

As the courses were brought out to my dining partner and I, I swear I could hear the "Blue Danube" waltz playing. As two servers (one being General Manager Hicham Farabi) would walk up together and present us with a carefully orchestrated show of simultaneously placing our dishes on the table with expert timing, each dish was then carefully described in detail down to every last spice and peppercorn. Our waters were never empty more than a sip and I think I counted at least 8 different people attending to us. Make no mistake: if it is a fine dining experience you want, you can get it here. You can also just as easily order a burger and beer at the bar.

Our 8-course meal began with the Spring Asparagus Soup with toasted curry oil, crisp parsley, and creme fraiche. The soup was a thick, flavorful puree served hot in a warmed bowl. The flavor of the asparagus wasn't overpowering, and the toasted curry oil gave it a hint of spice and toasted nut flavor while the creme fraiche had a creamy cooling effect. Superb (and in a conversation with another foodie-chef the next day, this sentiment was seconded).

Next we had the Chopped Vegetable Salad with pine nuts, shaved feta cheese, and yogurt sauce. As Hicham explained, a chopped salad like this will typically have about 12-13 vegetables in it. I think I lost count but I do remember tomatoes, roasted red peppers, kalamata olives, beets...with the cheese and dressing it was actually very reminiscent of a Greek salad, but in a league all its own.

I have to be honest when I say that I had some trepidation trying the English Pea Ravioli. I greatly dislike anything pea-related so I thought this one wouldn't go over well for me. But the pea puree is mixed with mascarpone and goat cheeses inside the ravioli, then topped with braised pancetta and Parmigiano Reggiano. The verdict? Win! I could barely taste any of that horrid pea-flavor I so despise; for me, it was simply a plump, firm ravioli with lots of cheese. I'm so easy to please sometimes.

The entrees were served to us in platters all at once for us to split and share. After the three appetizers I was already getting full, but I certainly couldn't let any of this beautiful food go to waste and besides, it's my job. The Roasted Chicken Breast was served with honey-glazed carrots and garlic potato purée. Tender, juicy, and gorgeous.

The Sautéed Salmon was served with fingerling potatoes, confit bacon and a whole grain mustard sauce. Of the fish I most often encounter (and mind you I don't exactly eat carp), salmon tends to be the "fishiest" of all. Unlike tilapia which can be served with a light white wine citrus sauce, salmon needs a strong flavor to cut its own natural fishiness. As it turns out, whole grain mustard is just the man for the job. The mustard grain has its own sharp flavor, "hot" (though not like a chili pepper) and slightly astringent. This offsets the heavy flavor of the salmon, making it not quite so overpowering. Plus the crispy spice-rubbed skin was fantastic, lending a different dimension to boring old salmon.

The Grilled Rib Eye Steak with wild mushrooms, slightly sweet Cipollini onions and a full-bodied Armagnac sauce was perfectly pink and tender. The Armagnac sauce really highlighted the meat's natural flavors while adding more complexity to it.

Ah, but the Angel Hair Pasta with wild field mushrooms and white truffle oil was what got us most excited when perusing the menu before our visit, and with good reason: the mushrooms are soaked, saturated in butter until their own natural juices explode out, and what you're left with are big, meaty, juicy mushrooms and aromatic, rich truffle butter over a tender pasta. Not the prettiest dish but the best-tasting ones often aren't. This is heavy and is meal enough in itself. But wait...you still have dessert.

Well, first you have fries. I did anyway. And they were crispety, crunchety, peanut-oily (NOTE: I don't actually know if they use peanut oil in their fryer but I wouldn't be shocked to hear if it was, as these fries had the kind of flavor and crispness I've come to associate with said oil. Allergic-types may want to inquire.). Too bad I only had room for about 3 of them.

At this point I'm beyond full. I'm actually in pain. My stomach feels like it's been stretched out like the guy's in Se7en who represented "Gluttony" (ooooh...inappropriate?). I hurt. I anticipate an evening at the Opera afterwards during which time I will neither be able to pass gas nor scratch myself, and this concerns me. I've had 7 courses (unless you count the fries? Then it would be 8) and they were sooooo good and I can't possibly ingest another bite or I might actually run the risk of eating myself to the point of digestive arrest.

Then dessert came. New York Style Cheesecake with sable cookies and fresh berry compote. I have to at least try it. The cheesecake is creamy. Rich, and creamy. Not crumbly. Not cakey. But creamy. I can taste the cream cheese and sour cream. The silky smoothness. Cold. Did I say creamy? This is cheesecake like my mom made--now, my mom didn't make much but she sure did make one hell of a cheesecake; it's infamous in my family. Just one bite became just another. And another. Until I was scraping the last plump blueberry around the plate to make sure I didn't miss any creamy crumbs.

Still not sold on the celebrity chef concept? Wolfgang is the name but Marc is the game--he runs the kitchen, creates the menu, and has been doing so with the Wolfgang Puck brand for 17 years now, having opened each of the Grilles across the nation. While he's travelled extensively under the Puck-Man, working in Vegas, Atlantic City, and LA, he originally hails from Madison Heights and has finally, after nearly two decades, come home. Our Prodigal Son returned, and after being so desperate to leave so many years ago, he is happy he has come back and is truly excited about what he sees going on in the city--the great ideas and the great passion he sees in other chefs and restauranteurs.

Marc designed this DRW menu (as well as the year-round prix fixe menu) to wholly represent the restaurant while making the experience affordable. Portions are smaller which allow for a more concise package without skimping on the quality. It’s the same food that is offered on the regular menu, and still represents the Wolfgang Puck brand. “We want this to be a dining experience for people, more than just eating,” he told me. “If you live in Troy you could go to Ocean Prime, so why come here? We’re trying to do something great so this will be the obvious choice.”

Works for me. And eventually my digestive tract recovered. Totally worth it.

FIRST COURSE:
Spring Asparagus Soup
(Toasted curry oil and crisp parsley)
~or~
Chopped Vegetable Salad
(Pine nuts and shaved feta cheese)
~or~
English Pea Ravioli
(Braised pancetta and Parmigiano Reggiano)

SECOND COURSE:
Roasted Chicken Breast
(Honey glazed carrots and garlic potato purée)
~or~
Sautéed Salmon
(Fingerling potatoes, confit bacon
and whole grain mustard sauce)
~or~
Grilled Rib Eye Steak
(Wild mushrooms, Cipollini onions and Armagnac sauce)
~or~
Angel Hair Pasta
(Wild field mushrooms and white truffle oil)

THIRD COURSE:
New York Style Cheesecake
(Sable cookies and fresh berry compote)

Real Detroit Weekly: Wolfgang Puck Grille

I'm still reeling over that bottle of Latour.

"Wolfgang Puck Grille is one of four “Grilles” in the Wolfgang Puck family of restaurants. The premise of the Grille is to incorporate a little of everything from all of the Wolfgang Puck menu concepts under one roof. The end result is an establishment that caters as much to the clientele looking for a simple pizza and beer combo before a Red Wings game as it does to the wealthy business types looking for Prime Rib with a bottle of Chateau Lafite Bordeaux.

'You can tell a lot about a place by its wine list: and this one is carefully separated into “Old” and “New World” categorizations, heavy on the big name French and Californian producers and runs the full gamut of styles and price points in between. The cheapest bottle is a Pinot Gris from California at $32 — the most expensive, a bottle of 1982 Chateau Latour Bordeaux for $2450. (Realistically expect a midrange of $60-80.)..."

Read the rest of the review here.